wheelbase length?
 

In the sticky "TLT-1 to TLT crawler":
"For the axles, first ditch the bumpers, they ruin your approach angle, and take away from under axle clearance. Then move the steering links above the steering arms. Next move the upper links to the back of the axle, and the lower links to the top to remove clutter under the axle. You will need to buy some longer screws and do some shaving or some shimming. I didn't have a dremel at the time, so I shimmed. Please note that doing this mod will extend out your wheelbase and you will have to run the 96mm link on the bottom and the 108mm link on top):"

1.Does anyone know the wheelbase length after doing this mod? what's the length increase compare to original?
2.Can I still using stock shocks and dogbones? If not, what's the specs should I get?
3.the length of 96mm and 108mm links, does it include the adjuster?
Thanx!

What does it means "......Then move the steering links above the steering arms.....",
Could someone post a picture show me how to rearrange those links?
I found a picture posted in Brandon's "widener comparison chart",
but it's hard to see which is which!
Thanx!
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/1263/tlt.jpg

I am not sure of the final wheelbase with using those links, but it should put you somewhere around 12.5". You will likely need new driveshafts/dogbones. I have never tried to use new dogbones, I just used Traxxas Stampede sliders.

As for the statement "......Then move the steering links above the steering arms.....", they are referring to the arms that go from the servo to the steering knuckle and then the longer rod that goes from one steering knuckle to the other. In the picture above, you can see that they are sitting on top of the knuckle, not below like the stock position.

Thank you JeremyH.

Could you tell me how to move the steering link above the steering arm? how to move the ball connector under servo link's ball connector ? (red circle in picture),
Moving two stays to the top (yellow circle in the picture), are they still attach with the same links (upper arms but with 108mm length)?
Do you know where can I find Traxxas Stampede sliders? could you give me a link?
Thanx!
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/1943/tlt1.jpg

I rearranged the front stays and links but I found it look strange, the diff housing is not horizontal the diff joint is pointing downward, could someone tell me the links length are correct? Upper links 108mm lower links 96mm?
And what is the length of the shock link (red circle in the picture)?
Thanx!
http://img2.imageshack.us/img2/1943/tlt1.jpg

It would be easier if you got rid of the cantilever setup and mounted the end of your shock to the upper part of that suspension mount (the only open hole on your axle mounts).

Here are the sliders that you will need:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1&I=LXJJ82&P=K
And the yokes:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=TRAC4631&P=K
(there is a plastic version available that is cheaper)
You can simply remove that drive cup from the pinion and bolt the yoke in place.

As far as moving the steering link (tie rod that goes from one side of the axle to the other), I will usually build a new link that uses traxxas rod ends with a captured ball:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1&I=LXHGB7&P=K
You can stack them on top of one another...both on top of the knuckle. Here is a picture of what I am talking about:
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/P1010046.jpg

I will usually adjust the lengths of my links to set the axle the way I want. I use the lower link to set the wheelbase, and the upper link to set the pinion angle.

Thank you JeremyH for the detail info.

I found two ball connector nuts(with 3mm hole) in TLT-1 parts bag, just good for moving up the steering links, I'll see what to do for the rest.

For the tranny, you mentioned in my other post Axial ax10 is a nice upgrade, is it 2 wheels or 4 wheels drive? I could't find info from the sticky TLT tranny guide. how about stempede tranny? which one is best for me?
Thanx again!

Well, the Axial or Stampede tranny will work. That TLT guide says Stampede because the article was written a while ago...before the Axial AX10 was created. Personally, I would go with the Axial tranny...it is much lighter, smaller and the parts availability is amazing. Here is a complete kit for the transmission:
http://www.shop.rpphobby.com/product...categoryId=166

It is a fully locked 4WD transmission. This transmission will not be a direct replacement for the stock TLT transmission. You will need to modify your vehicle some to get this to fit. In fact, neither the stampede nor the axial tranny will be a direct bolt in replacement. If you go with the stampede tranny, it will need to have the center planetary gears locked to be 4WD. Easy enough to do with some JB Weld.

Post up some pics of your truck! I'd like to see your progress..

Thank you JeremyH.

Just finished if for some test drive, actually there's about the same as the stock TLT-1, only change the motor to Integy 75T and a 12T pinion gear( I want it SLOW) , locked diff and axle.
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/1943/tlt1.jpg

moved the steering links above,
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/6560/tlt2.jpg

do some links myself (from that big niddle),
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/5784/tlt3.jpg

all the other stuffs, tranny, driveshafts, tires, wheels...., I need to order them from the state, for saving the shipping charge, I hope I could buy all of them in one order from one supplier.

The radio control (FP-T4NBL), servo FP-S148, receiver FP-R114H and the ESC MC-210CB, I took them from my very very old Tamiya glober liner tractor, I don't know it's because the radio control unit are too old fashion or because the stock tranny, I found it not easy to control the speed, do you have any idea?

In order to make my truck as slow and smooth as other trucks I saw from some YouTube videos, I think I still have long way to go.
Thanx!

p.s. forgot to ask, how do I connect the sliders from AX10 tranny(if I bought them) to my stock axle (diff joints)? do I need to buy something else? thanx!

Well, in my experience, if you are looking to purchase everything from one vendor, then either www.rpphobby.com, www.rcpcrawlers.com (who are both vendors on this website), or www.towerhobbies.com will likely be your best bet. Corey at RPP usually has a nice selection of both stock and aftermarket TLT parts in stock.

As for the Sliders, they will simple bolt up to the back of the pinions on the TLT axles after you remove the dogbone cup. They will not bolt up to the stock transmission output. If you replace your stock transmission with either a Stampede or Axial tranny, then the sliders will bolt right up.

The truck looks good so far! One piece of advice...remove that servo saver and install a servo arm. That saver will rob you of some of the torque that is given from the servo.

Thank you JeremyH for all these helpful info.

"......remove that servo saver and install a servo arm.....",
you meant like this! (lucky that I still keep my old tractor parts)
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/1943/tlt1.jpg

For the AX10 tranny, do I need the slipper clutch for it?
I wonder which control stick do you use to control speed, the stick with or without the click?
Thanx!

Yep, that's what I meant!

I dont use a stick radio for my TLT's but you can use whichever stick is easier. I tried to run one of my 2.2's with my stick radio and didnt like the indexing of the left stick, so I modified the radio to have a return to center spring. Now I just use a pistol grip radio.

"......didnt like the indexing of the left stick,....",
this is what I meant and I don't like that click feeling either, I'd reduced the presure of click but I think I better change it to "return to center spring" for better control of the speed.
Thanx!

P.S. I hope you don't mind that I asked so many questions.

I dont mind at all. That's what this place is for!

When I performed the return to center modification on my stick radio, I used these instructions:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/electronics/96174-dx6-throttle-return-spring-mod-instructions.html

I don't know you'd post an instruction, anyway, I swapped the indexing stick to the other return to center stick, now I can have a better speed control.
Thanx!

Good deal! Whatever method works best for you...

Hi JeremyH,
Do you familiar with AX10 driveshaft? what is the working length of it (I couldn't find info even from officail website)? will it fit with TLT-1 diff housing gear shaft? Just wonder if I use ax10 tranny, why not use ax10 driveshaft together? What's your opinion?
Thanx!

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/2299/ax10.jpg

Well, that really depends on what your wheelbase is....

Those shafts should work well for a 12.5" wheelbase.

Hi JeremyH,
Do you know which largest spur gear and smallest pinion gear fit with AX10 tranny on the market?
Thanx!

Hummm....I'm not sure. I usually run the spur that comes with the tranny. I think it's an 87T. Almost any pinion should fit, so I'd go with an 11T or so...

Hi JeremyH,
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...0487&search=Go
AX10 tranny set, I don't see spur and pinion gears in the picture, do I need to buy them separately?
If I want to put 2.2" rims and tires on TLT-1, do I need to modify something?
Thanx!

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSAS6&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSAS5&P=M

The TLT hexes are 12mm....so any 2.2 rim that will accept a 12mm hex (most 2.2's will) should fit perfectly!

Thank you JeremyH,

You'd mentioned in other post that Tmaxx and Emaxx shocks work well on TLT-1,
what's the length of it? could you give me the part no. or products link?
thanx!

Well, if you plan to buy the shocks and springs seperately (hobby shops will sometimes sell them this way), then you might as well go with some front shocks and springs from a Traxxas Slash:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...760a&search=Go
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUWA3&P=7

These shocks are about 4" long (uncompressed). The progressive slash springs are nice. I run them on my comps truck.

Rockmahala has an axial tranny in the classifieds for $30 shipped.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/members/rockmahala-28629.htm

it was a few weeks ago, but he might still have it.



Did you lock the difs yet?

Thank you JeremyH and sweli,

I finally got the AX10 tranny and Traxxas driveshafts from a local store,
I put Tamiya 06 83T spur gear on the tranny and found out it's rubbing the driveshaft,
I wonder how do you put 87T spur gear on the tranny?
Is standard 48p diameter smaller than Tamiya 06 if they all have the same teeth?
thanx!

Yes, the pitch will make the gear larger or smaller....

Hi JeremyH,
I got a set of Proline Moab 2.2 tires and 2 set (front and rear) of Traxxas wheel (non bead-lock style), then found out the rear wheels internal offset (about 26mm) are too deep for TLT-1,
3672 front
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJF49&P=7
3673 rear
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJF50&P=7
Do you know which are the cheapest bead-lock style wheels I can put Moab tires on and fit with TLT-1 axial?
thanx!

Yep, I remember using those on some of my older trucks and would just buy two sets of the fronts.

As for the absolute cheapest beadlocks, something like the Axial beadlocks will work;
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXRGT1&P=ML
However, they are not the best quality (small hardware that will strip out).

Personally, I'd spend just a bit more money and go with a beadlock from one of the vendors on this forum.

Eritex makes a nice beadlock wheel that is fairly inexpensive:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186379

Wheel Works makes a great beadlock wheel that is a bit more expensive:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vendors-tires-wheels/177933-wheel-works-1911-beadlock-wheels.html
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vendors-tires-wheels/185233-%2A%2A%2A%2A%2A%2A%2Awheel-works-2110-bead-locks%2A%2A%2A%2A%2A%2A%2A%2A%2A.html

Mayhem also makes some great wheels:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=192444

For the most part, an Axial offset will work well with the TLT axles.

Thank you for the info.

How about Proline beadlock wheels? which one good for me?
What do you mean "an Axial offset will work well with the TLT axles"? Is "axial offset" a part?
Thanx!

Nope...."offset" is where they place the wheel mounting surface. If this surface is on the inside of the wheel, then your wheels will be wide. If it is on the outside of the wheel, then your wheels might contact the suspension or axle. "Axial offset" is basically in the center...

So the Traxxas 3672 rear wheels is what you mean "offset on the outside of the wheel"?
What is the terminology of "offset on the outside of the wheel" and "offset on the inside of the wheel"?
thanx!

This wheel offset guide might help explain offset., Pics worth a thousand words right.
http://www.prolineracing.com/t-HowTo...fsetGuide.aspx

Sorry about my terminology....the link Jamus provided is better than me trying to explain the offset.

I've always had trouble with offset, backspacing is an easier term for me to understand and visualize.

Agreed! I have been working on 1:1s for a lot longer than I have been messing with RCs....

Thank you guys,

I wonder would Proline eight shooter 2.2 wheels fits my need?
thanx!

Those should work just fine...

Thank you JeremyH,

How does beadlock works? Do you have a link could show me how to install tires on beadlock wheels?
I wonder does anyone try to DIY beadlock?
Thanx!

It's a fairly straight forward process. You have the wheel and two outer rings. When you get the rims, remove the outer rings and install the tires (with foams). Seat the bead into the groove in the rim and install the ring. I like to install the bolts opposing one another and tighten in a star pattern (crossing the rim each time). Then install the ring on the other side of the rim. Install on your axle.