Tlt steering

[crash]

I've seached for a bit but havn't heard too much talk about upgrading the steering on the TLT axles. Something I have noticed when I get on good traction surfaces instead of the wheels turning you can see the knucle twist due to the long extension that the draglink hooks too. Has anybody just lopped some of that up and shorten it to cure the problem?

[Plays_with_Toys]

There is supposed to be some aluminum touring car knuckles that fit right in. The twisting knuckles is pretty annoying, it happens when you have a tire wedged too.

[crash]

Originally Posted by Plays_with_Toys

There is supposed to be some aluminum touring car knuckles that fit right in. The twisting knuckles is pretty annoying, it happens when you have a tire wedged too.

Kinda like having hydro steering, bumped up pump and trying to move that rock the size of a house---BOOOOOM

The riser is threaded all the way up so I am going to try and remove some of it to keep the leverage down. May not cure it but I bet it will help....

[customxprone1]

Lotsa guys sleeve the links with some brake tubing...looks good and adds beef.



I put mine on the hole closest to the axle, less stress put on the end of the arm... will see how it does.

Christian

[crash]

Thats what I am talking about--no riser on the knuckle where the draglink/tie rod meet. What did you use for that?

[toyofast]

Here is a shot from last year with a few TLT's and it kind of shows our steering.


Everyone runs a very similar setup within the ORCRC group. Other than our servo choices, all our tierods/drag link setups are the same.

Tierod on top of knuckle then drag link on top of tierod at knuckle. This combined with the proper servo horn can net you a flat steering setup. Then it's all about adjusting your EPA settings on your radio so you don't constantly force the servo to over turn all the time.

[customxprone1]

Originally Posted by crashfab

Thats what I am talking about--no riser on the knuckle where the draglink/tie rod meet. What did you use for that?

Ok with the kit, it comes with some balls with holes through them that are threaded....You could use those if you use rod ends without the metal pieces inside, and stack them like i did, OR you can run rod ends with metal cups in um..EX: turnbuckle ends, etc...and just run a bolt through them and a nut on the top....So basiclly like I did but minus the brass balls. For the other side just run a screw and a nut again. Hope tht made sense.

[crash]

Originally Posted by customxprone1

Ok with the kit, it comes with some balls with holes through them that are threaded....You could use those if you use rod ends without the metal pieces inside, and stack them like i did, OR you can run rod ends with metal cups in um..EX: turnbuckle ends, etc...and just run a bolt through them and a nut on the top....So basiclly like I did but minus the brass balls. For the other side just run a screw and a nut again. Hope tht made sense.

After about 10 minutes after your posting I figured it out. Just got one diff done and was looking thru my bags and crap---the kit only comes with 2(enough to do one axle) so I am looing at the "turnbuckle" method for the other diff...