RCCrawler Forums

slimyslug · 02-07-2007, 12:33 AM

I am very much pleased with my conversion but I think the steering could use some more play. My set up right now is just front steering with only the center diff locked. Is there a way to get more steering radius other than going 4ws?

Big Mike · 02-07-2007, 07:14 AM

Stock TLT axles/knuckles?
You can easily get a little bit more throw by moving your steering to full lock and noting where the knuckle hits the axle. You can relieve both areas with an exacto knife/small files and create more clearance for the knuckles to swing farther.
If you want more than that,you'll have to spend money and change parts. CVD's are one way, but I'm not sure if you can get them for TLT axles. I've seen guys modify the stock ends to shorten them a bit and make more clearance. That takes a little bit of machining skills.
Fat Rock C's and aluminum knuckles will improve the steering, but more money to spend and modification to do. Not a terribly difficult modification, though.

nitromtcrawler · 02-07-2007, 09:42 AM

hi i had the same problem.but it is now fixed,are u still using the stock tlt servo saver???? if you are there is your problem.the servo saver(ss) is not long enough to give you good steering. so what i would do is buy a 1 inch alluminum servo horn for around 5$ at your LHS i hope this helps!!

Big Mike · 02-07-2007, 10:58 AM

Yep, if you are using the stock saver from the kit, you should definitely switch it for a plain aluminum horn.
Servo savers and crawling don't work well together. When you really need to move your wheels, the saver will move instead. You should just get used to trashing servos, it happens in rock crawling. Unless you pop for high quality units with bearings, metal gears, and high torque.

slimyslug · 02-07-2007, 12:12 PM

Thanks for the advice guys. I will try servo saver solution first but I do plan to get the Fat Rock Cs in the near future. Right now, my crwlr has Junfac axle mounts, steering rods, and suspension kit on it.

Erin · 02-07-2007, 12:15 PM

Trimmimg your drive cups about a 1/16" and rebeveling the inside top edge makes quite a bit of difference along with relieving the spots on the axle where the knucles hit.

5150bronco · 02-08-2007, 03:06 PM

I just cut a couple mm's of the stub shaft so the axle would turn further....Cut it or grind so the end of the shaft is kinda flat, and the taper part of the end is reduced. Hope that is helpful. Good luck.

5150bronco · 02-08-2007, 03:07 PM

Oh, and too much is not good because the axle shaft, dog bone, will pop out, so you will just have to try and see how it works.

racerx · 02-08-2007, 03:14 PM

I usually trim my stub axle cups till they are flush with the back of the knuckle. Just grind a little at a time and keep checking your fit.

slimyslug · 02-10-2007, 01:21 PM

Thank you for the additional advice. I think I have enough to go by for now and should be cornering on a dime with these mods. You guys ROCK!

CaptainSafety · 02-11-2007, 08:35 AM

i am having the problem that the plastic on the nuckle is twisting under the torque of the server. Time to relocate the links

Tanis · 02-11-2007, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by racerx

I usually trim my stub axle cups till they are flush with the back of the knuckle. Just grind a little at a time and keep checking your fit.

If you use the maxclimber stubs, they come from the factory 1/8" shorter than rockbuster ones, flush with the knuckle. I had to trim quite a bit of the knuckle arm before it came close to binding. I broke a maxclimber one and replaced with a spare from my rockbuster kit and goodbye steering. I am now ordering some replacement maxclimber ones

konafreeride11 · 02-11-2007, 10:18 AM

how come i can turn really nice to the right but not to the left..

Tanis · 02-11-2007, 10:33 AM

Did you have the trim set at 0 before you put your servo horn on? Also what are you running for a servo and horn?

Tanis · 02-11-2007, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaptainSafety

i am having the problem that the plastic on the nuckle is twisting under the torque of the server. Time to relocate the links

Or aluminum knuckles from TheCrawlerStore.

rock_krawler · 02-11-2007, 10:58 AM

If you have the money, my vote would be for the MIP CVDs coming soon. Check them out-
RCP's CVD's for the TLT axles...........New and Improved!!
worth the wait

929freak · 03-08-2007, 07:39 PM

could someone possibly post up a pic of where/how much of the stub axle to grind...??Have my first comp in 1 week and would hate to grind the wrong thing or too much,wouldn't be able to get a replacement in time for comp....thanks

revin9k · 03-08-2007, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 929freak

could someone possibly post up a pic of where/how much of the stub axle to grind...??Have my first comp in 1 week and would hate to grind the wrong thing or too much,wouldn't be able to get a replacement in time for comp....thanks

i ground a little too much off mine yesterday. i drilled the taperd part fluch with the rest of the cup. i just swithced with the rear stubs and now im good to go. now i hope i dont go too far this time! its hard to keep it flat. i recomend clamping the stub in a vise then using a die grinder. good luck

Kamikaze · 03-08-2007, 08:09 PM

If you leave the stub in a knuckle then use a bench grider and let the stub spin it will keep it flat. Thats how I grind mine.

02-07-2007, 12:33 AM	#1
slimyslug Newbie Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Tacoma Posts: 6	Limited steering I am very much pleased with my conversion but I think the steering could use some more play. My set up right now is just front steering with only the center diff locked. Is there a way to get more steering radius other than going 4ws?

02-07-2007, 10:58 AM	#4
Big Mike I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Martinsburg WV Posts: 2,781	Yep, if you are using the stock saver from the kit, you should definitely switch it for a plain aluminum horn. Servo savers and crawling don't work well together. When you really need to move your wheels, the saver will move instead. You should just get used to trashing servos, it happens in rock crawling. Unless you pop for high quality units with bearings, metal gears, and high torque. Last edited by Big Mike; 02-07-2007 at 11:00 AM.

02-07-2007, 07:14 AM	#2
Big Mike I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Martinsburg WV Posts: 2,781	Stock TLT axles/knuckles? You can easily get a little bit more throw by moving your steering to full lock and noting where the knuckle hits the axle. You can relieve both areas with an exacto knife/small files and create more clearance for the knuckles to swing farther. If you want more than that,you'll have to spend money and change parts. CVD's are one way, but I'm not sure if you can get them for TLT axles. I've seen guys modify the stock ends to shorten them a bit and make more clearance. That takes a little bit of machining skills. Fat Rock C's and aluminum knuckles will improve the steering, but more money to spend and modification to do. Not a terribly difficult modification, though.

02-07-2007, 09:42 AM	#3
nitromtcrawler Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Southern California Posts: 525	hi i had the same problem.but it is now fixed,are u still using the stock tlt servo saver???? if you are there is your problem.the servo saver(ss) is not long enough to give you good steering. so what i would do is buy a 1 inch alluminum servo horn for around 5$ at your LHS i hope this helps!!

02-07-2007, 12:12 PM	#5
slimyslug Newbie Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Tacoma Posts: 6	Thanks for the advice guys. I will try servo saver solution first but I do plan to get the Fat Rock Cs in the near future. Right now, my crwlr has Junfac axle mounts, steering rods, and suspension kit on it.

02-07-2007, 12:15 PM	#6
Erin I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Goin broke losing weight..... Posts: 2,262	Trimmimg your drive cups about a 1/16" and rebeveling the inside top edge makes quite a bit of difference along with relieving the spots on the axle where the knucles hit.

02-08-2007, 03:06 PM	#7
5150bronco RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: San Jose Posts: 1,697	I just cut a couple mm's of the stub shaft so the axle would turn further....Cut it or grind so the end of the shaft is kinda flat, and the taper part of the end is reduced. Hope that is helpful. Good luck.

02-08-2007, 03:07 PM	#8
5150bronco RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: San Jose Posts: 1,697	Oh, and too much is not good because the axle shaft, dog bone, will pop out, so you will just have to try and see how it works.

02-08-2007, 03:14 PM	#9
racerx I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: R.I.P. Chip Posts: 2,024	I usually trim my stub axle cups till they are flush with the back of the knuckle. Just grind a little at a time and keep checking your fit.

02-10-2007, 01:21 PM	#10
slimyslug Newbie Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Tacoma Posts: 6	Thank you for the additional advice. I think I have enough to go by for now and should be cornering on a dime with these mods. You guys ROCK!

02-11-2007, 08:35 AM	#11
CaptainSafety Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Scott Depot Posts: 197	i am having the problem that the plastic on the nuckle is twisting under the torque of the server. Time to relocate the links

02-11-2007, 10:18 AM	#13
konafreeride11 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: dallas, Oregon Posts: 200	how come i can turn really nice to the right but not to the left..

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02-11-2007, 10:33 AM	#14
Tanis Keep it real Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Yakima,WA Posts: 6,532	Did you have the trim set at 0 before you put your servo horn on? Also what are you running for a servo and horn?

02-11-2007, 10:58 AM	#16
rock_krawler Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Clovis Posts: 78	If you have the money, my vote would be for the MIP CVDs coming soon. Check them out- RCP's CVD's for the TLT axles...........New and Improved!! worth the wait

03-08-2007, 07:39 PM	#17
929freak Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: D-town Posts: 86	could someone possibly post up a pic of where/how much of the stub axle to grind...??Have my first comp in 1 week and would hate to grind the wrong thing or too much,wouldn't be able to get a replacement in time for comp....thanks

03-08-2007, 08:09 PM	#19
Kamikaze I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Columbia TN Posts: 6,154	If you leave the stub in a knuckle then use a bench grider and let the stub spin it will keep it flat. Thats how I grind mine.

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