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05-31-2007, 11:22 AM | #1 |
~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
| HOW TO: Gen 1 Stealth Tranny modded for Crawler Use.
ive had a couple RC10T's up in the attic for years, and an idea on how to make them usable for crawler use. heres what i came up with. Project Time: 1 hour+ Total Cost: $0.00 Items needed: Gen 1 Stealth Hack saw grider or file drill file vice Mapp torch Harris Safety Silv 56 2x 1" 1/4"-20 bolts JB Weld heres how it looks pulled of the RC10T STEP 1: REMOVE AND HACK MOTOR PLATE STEP 2: REMOVE, DISASSEMBLE AND CLEAN DIFF (you will only need the two hubs and the main gear) STEP 3: Groove/slot hubs and main gear with dremel (for added bite for JB Weld, prevents twisting when locked) STEP 4: cut head off 1/4"-20 bolt, clamp drill in vice, chuck up bolt leaving about 3/8" exposed, use file to grind threads off. STEP 5: when done nearly all the threads will be gone for a perfect slip fit into the yoke. STEP 6: with grinder/file/dremel grind flat spots for set screws (both sides) STEP 7: braise modded 1/4"-20 bolts into hubs( bolt is perfect slip fit into hubs) be sure to keep solder/flux off the hub so bearing still slides over it. i cleaned it up with some 100grit sand paper STEP 8: Clean parts and reinstall bearings. these are the only peices you will be using. STEP 9: Lock Diff with JB weld, inside and out. be sure to keep JB Weld off the gears and outer hub bearing surfaces. STEP 10: Reassemble Tranny. superglue sliper clutch two halves and disk, tighten nut all the way. STEP 11: FINISHED! enjoy your new Gen 1 stealth crawler tranny! one of the most realiable, smoothest, smallest transmissions ever made Last edited by STANG KILLA SS; 05-31-2007 at 11:26 AM. |
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05-31-2007, 11:49 AM | #2 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: colchester
Posts: 496
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will that work for the gen 2 also? i think thats what i have. its the one with 2 holes in the bottom and the hump.
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05-31-2007, 12:32 PM | #3 |
~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
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i also have a RC10T2 in the attic i can pull it out and see how it works out. this ones so nice cause it already has the nice 4 holes on the flat bottom, and is old and cheap. ;)
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05-31-2007, 12:34 PM | #4 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: colchester
Posts: 496
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yea it would be nice to have one of the old ones but i dont:-( so ive gotta deal with what ive got
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05-31-2007, 01:44 PM | #5 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: 303
Posts: 121
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this is a great idea, on the 3rd picture, you show the thrust bearing screw but you don't use it. Did you just clamp the outdrives together to cure?
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05-31-2007, 02:10 PM | #6 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: East Aurora
Posts: 289
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wow taht is really nice, i have been thinking about doing that to one of my evader tranny's
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05-31-2007, 02:14 PM | #7 |
~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
| you are correct, the screw is NOT used. i did not clamp during curing, the bearings on the inside kept it tight and true. but it couldnt hurt |
05-31-2007, 02:20 PM | #8 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Happiness is a warm AK.
Posts: 12,563
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I like what you did w/ the motor place. Why did you Super glue the slipper? Just tighten it down, it provides a "fuse" in the drive train. Last edited by dezfan; 05-31-2007 at 02:23 PM. |
05-31-2007, 02:29 PM | #9 |
~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
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thanks dez! well this is going in a 1.9 trail rig, so i wont really have much binding, etc. in the drive train. i like to build and forget, not have to worry, creek crossings could cause some problems. but i just used 4 drops so i could undo it if i ever needed to. |
05-31-2007, 02:32 PM | #10 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Happiness is a warm AK.
Posts: 12,563
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Nice job, add the RPM upgrade and your Gen 1 will have the same internal ratio as the Gen 4. |
05-31-2007, 04:18 PM | #11 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: 303
Posts: 121
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do you think you can braze in the studs to a diff that has already been epoxied or is it gonna melt some gears?? I was using the maxx shafts but prefer the pedes, thanks
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05-31-2007, 05:28 PM | #12 |
~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
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05-31-2007, 08:43 PM | #13 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Reno
Posts: 234
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I wish you had posted this a week ago. I just gave up one my old rc-10 stealth because I coudn't drill those damn hardened steel posts. I'd seen others on this sight pull it of, but after breaking $20 in bits I s**t canned the stealth and paid out for a R2. Please let us know how it stands up under stress.
Last edited by Spucknit; 05-31-2007 at 09:32 PM. |
05-31-2007, 09:03 PM | #14 |
~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
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will do. any chance of getting this stickied or put on the front page tech section? http://www.rccrawler.com/tech.htm |
06-01-2007, 06:58 AM | #15 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: colchester
Posts: 496
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are the internals on all generation stealths the same? like could i put my internals in the old case?
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06-01-2007, 08:01 AM | #16 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Reno
Posts: 234
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No. In my G2 I melted plastic center diff gear by being a idiot. I replaced the gear with a new one and it didn't fit in the case. Had to buy the new G4 case shells.
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06-01-2007, 08:09 AM | #17 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: colchester
Posts: 496
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ok thanks that will save me some money by testing it out
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06-01-2007, 08:14 AM | #18 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Happiness is a warm AK.
Posts: 12,563
| Quote:
If you want, I can add it to the tranny sticky. | |
06-01-2007, 08:55 AM | #19 |
~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
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i think it would be of use to others in the future. another tranny option. would be appreciated |
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