Flame my new link setup please.....

[mrpink]

Building another tuber- yes ANOTHER one. I have found it to be very stress relieving cutting and burning metal. I setup the links on this one a bit different and wanna see what everyone thinks. Pictures please....

Front setup. I know the axle is a bit overclocked (I will fix this)


Rear setup.



Overview.



Dont worry about where I am going to place the shocks- I will change some suspension stays around to get that straight. If you see anything that looks out of whack- let me know.

[AMorgan]

Looks good, is this the one you got the rods for the other day? Looking forward to how it's going to come out.

[mrpink]

Originally Posted by AMorgan

Looks good, is this the one you got the rods for the other day? Looking forward to how it's going to come out.

yes... my $9.00 revo ends. cough* ripoff *cough. I will bring it in and let you touch it for..... ummmmm $9.00 (the tuber that is, the metal one.)

[Stormin2u]

Mr. Pink,

It looks good to me but I a friggin Noob.

The tube framing looks minimal and light this is a tuber with no extra "just for looks" extra tube. Maybe you will add more.

The front and back link set ups are different, may I ask what that will produce I'm guessing a more neutral rear?

I always wonder where the other gear and stuff goes Some tubers look like 1:1 crawlers but then the gear gets crammed in them and looks like an after though.

I was looking at the Tim McGee's great photos posted the other day and got the desire to build a (scaler) comp rig but in my view it can't have a pile of visible gear and stuff. I think I'm partial to the ones with enough body panels that act as cover for the gear.

Opinion Only
Storm'

[mrpink]

Originally Posted by Stormin2u

I always wonder where the other gear and stuff goes Some tubers look like 1:1 crawlers but then the gear gets crammed in them and looks like an after though.

I was looking at the Tim McGee's great photos posted the other day and got the desire to build a (scaler) comp rig but in my view it can't have a pile of visible gear and stuff. I think I'm partial to the ones with enough body panels that act as cover for the gear.

pictured is only about 10% of the tube work that will be involved in this build... it will resemble a 1:1 and have side panels that hide the "inards".

The base of this rig were built around the Rx and tranny.. no afterthought here- forethought makes for a smoother finish.

I will post more pictures as I progress.

[Rockpiledriver]

Those will never work like that.

Happy?

[EeePee]

Bring that thing to the next TSC comp and I'll flame it reeeeeeal good.

[Stormin2u]

Looking forward to those pics

[braceysdad]

Heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa aaaaaaaaaaaaaay

[rockmike]

well im no flamer lol like tha attachment stuff pretty standard.I would think the the upper links on the rear are to long,this should make the pinion dance around a bit when it cycles.Typically the top links are shorter than the bottom on a link setup.Easy remedy just use the tlt mounts that have 2 holes.

[FrankyRizzo]

Looks like a Gimbal chassis plate.

[wonder squirrel]

I like the way you have the rears setup, but I prefer the use of long links. Longer links will help keep the axle in the center of the wheel well

[mrpink]

Originally Posted by rockmike

well im no flamer lol like tha attachment stuff pretty standard.I would think the the upper links on the rear are to long,this should make the pinion dance around a bit when it cycles.Typically the top links are shorter than the bottom on a link setup.Easy remedy just use the tlt mounts that have 2 holes.

I didn't think the length of the link matters all that much but the angle to the axle and amount of triangulation that is involved. The rear uppers go pretty much straight back- zero triangulation. The lowers have a good amount.

Do you think shortening the rear upper 1/8"-1/4" would effect the setup all that much?

Originally Posted by FrankyRizzo

Looks like a Gimbal chassis plate.

shhh.

[rockmike]

the 1/8" to 1/4" probably wouldnt make much diff.What ive learned[read]about 4 links is the top links are typically 70% length of the bottom links.Mind you im no expert on this.Im thinkin its about the geometry of it to keep the pinion around the same angle through suspension cycle.

[mrpink]

Originally Posted by rockmike

the 1/8" to 1/4" probably wouldnt make much diff.What ive learned[read]about 4 links is the top links are typically 70% length of the bottom links.Mind you im no expert on this.Im thinkin its about the geometry of it to keep the pinion around the same angle through suspension cycle.

Eeepee has always somewhat impressed me with his "link-ology" I was hoping to get some feedback from someone like him (and not just a big picture of fire).

I do appreciate all the help I can get though!!

[rockmike]

theres a real cool thread about 4 links on pirate that i read,and this is were im getting my info on the subject.Yes eepee helped me a while back on my torque twist and its been elimnated.Started out knowing nothing about link suspension i feel im fairly knowledgeable about it now.Good luck bro.

[EeePee]

Originally Posted by mrpink

feedback from someone like him (and not just a big picture of fire).

Fine. Be that way! I'm trying to get you out to a comp already!

The upper front links could be mounted inboard at the chassis. Seems their angle is fairly steep at the ball ends. You have plenty of triangulation so I don't see any harm being done mounting them inboard. And it should relieve the ball ends of some possible stress. Or use some spacers at the axle end before you put the ball ends on. Or they could be fine as they are.

The rear link length could work out in your favor. As the suspension cycles it will point the yoke upward, and that will help keep it out of harms way. Always a good thing. But the range of motion is so minor, I really don't think it matters much. When everything is done, you might want to tweak the angle the uppers are at. Maybe add some spacers underneath the suspension stays on the axle. This will improve your link seperation, and get the uppers closer to parallel to the ground. And that will help with the anti squat number. The other option is to get the chassis side closer to the lower ball end.

It's hard to predict what will happen honestly.

[mrpink]

Originally Posted by EeePee

Fine. Be that way! I'm trying to get you out to a comp already!

yeah yeah yeah... i hear ya.

got the cab and the front end done. pictures please....

[mrpink]

All done.

[AMorgan]

Matt, we're no worse than tower, think of all the shipping I saved ya Chassis looks good, although not 9.00 to touch it good. Maybe you should bring it out on the 12th and let me see what it can do.