RCCrawler Forums

sloppy · 11-13-2007, 08:40 PM

well kinda there actually for the tamiya dark inpact. but they are pretty much a direct fit if you are run fatrock c hubs and cvds. they are a direct fit.
The only real difference in these and the stock tlt knuckle other then the high clearance, is they are just a tad taller where the kingpins go so you have to grind or file just a little off the knuckle no biggy. the other small problem is they put the axle back in farther so you lose some steering unless you run cvd's or mod stock axle by grinding some off again no biggy.
on to some comparison photo's
i got the 3R aluminum versions from the bay

looks like the gpm ones are cheaper.
http://cgi.ebay.com/GPM-Alloy-Front-...QQcmdZViewItem
I didnt check tamiyausa for there version i am sure they have one the stock plastic ones were 5 bucks.
installed pic

I dont know if you can tell in the pic or not but they are spreading the c-hub apart just a tad.
next to a stock tlt axle

and here is a pic of the steering with no mods done.

I bolted one on my crawler with cvds. and the steering was insane.
I will get some of the pics of that latter.
by the way they have that same little offset that a tlt knuckle has so they spin nice and free once there installed. if anybody has any questions about let me know I will do some real world testing latter in the week with them. and update then.
by the way I know i have the coolest coffee table in the world :crazy:

obijuan · 11-13-2007, 10:45 PM

dude, you suck at taking pics. i dont see any tlt parts anywhere. but really, try use the macro function.

is there any noticeable increase in throw? i have hi-steer knucks and can touch the pumpkin both ways. basically, wondering how much better are these?

sloppy · 11-14-2007, 12:13 AM

I would say yes more throw with cvd's for sure. I need to grind the stock stub axle down still to get maximum throw with the stock parts.
I think to get all the steering these provide i would need to bend the steering link a little like you said they will hit the pumpkin. I dont have any other high clearance knuckles to compare these to so i cant say if they are better. They are cheaper and work. so i am happy

yeah I am no photographer guy whats a macro.

rockhugger · 11-14-2007, 07:34 AM

great find.

JeremyH · 11-14-2007, 03:40 PM

Yep, they work great! Been running those on a few of my trucks for a while:

Just gotta grind a few mm off one of the mounts and you are good to go.

sloppy · 11-14-2007, 04:19 PM

so jeremy how much did you grind off the yokes? it didnt look like i could get all the steering out with stock yokes without grinding.
glad there working for someone else I cant wait to run them.
I have cvds on the one rig so that one doesnt matter.

JeremyH · 11-14-2007, 07:08 PM

You mean the drive cups? I ground them down until I thought they start to pop off of the axle shaft. Never measured the amount, though.

hotwheels000 · 11-14-2007, 08:16 PM

I bent the crap out of the blue ones first time out, not enough reinforcing in the webbed area. Also if you are running CVD's/fatrocks you will end up grinding into the mounting bolt for the fat rock for max throw. There are other manufactures out there for these that are far superior if you want high steer, I have seen the products just dont know who the maker was.

In the end I just went back to the standard alum knuckle and run a very small diameter tie rod.This will give you more clearance and if it does hang up on something it just bends out of the way,you can staighten it out by hand after the course is finished. Down side again is you may loose steering throw with a bent rod

dieselfuel · 11-14-2007, 08:35 PM

makes you wonder why some of the vendors here that make knuckles dont relocate the arms higher...

Nova's Ark · 11-14-2007, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselfuel

makes you wonder why some of the vendors here that make knuckles dont relocate the arms higher...

Or made them better. I have gone through 3 pairs of aluminum knuckles just to get one good pair! I will leave the vendor nameless in order to avoid any punishment.

They are silver and in the first two pairs, I received three of one side. Another pair was sent out. That pair was stored for back ups. Finally, one side of the first pair bent. No problem, I go and get the back up pair. It is then I discover that the inside bearing is not machined correctly and the CVD hub will not slide through. Total BS.

The vendors make the Axle C's and Lock outs, but they need to make a much better set of knuckles (IMO).

sloppy · 11-14-2007, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeremyH

You mean the drive cups? I ground them down until I thought they start to pop off of the axle shaft. Never measured the amount, though.

yeah that is what i was asking i didnt get to finsh grindin mine down. I just wanted to make sure there would be enough left after the grinding. have you had any problems jeremy?

and if these dont work out for me not a big deal. I am gonna run both pairs on 1.9 rigs so I dont think durability will be a issue. I could be wrong thanks for the input guys. I just want to get rid of the spacer i am using with the frame mounted servo these should help with that.

JeremyH · 11-15-2007, 09:16 AM

No problems with the knuckles or drive cups at all....and the rig picture above gets beat on pretty well.

11-13-2007, 08:40 PM	#1
sloppy I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: akron Posts: 4,054	high clearance tlt knuckle well kinda there actually for the tamiya dark inpact. but they are pretty much a direct fit if you are run fatrock c hubs and cvds. they are a direct fit. The only real difference in these and the stock tlt knuckle other then the high clearance, is they are just a tad taller where the kingpins go so you have to grind or file just a little off the knuckle no biggy. the other small problem is they put the axle back in farther so you lose some steering unless you run cvd's or mod stock axle by grinding some off again no biggy. on to some comparison photo's i got the 3R aluminum versions from the bay looks like the gpm ones are cheaper. http://cgi.ebay.com/GPM-Alloy-Front-...QQcmdZViewItem I didnt check tamiyausa for there version i am sure they have one the stock plastic ones were 5 bucks. installed pic I dont know if you can tell in the pic or not but they are spreading the c-hub apart just a tad. next to a stock tlt axle and here is a pic of the steering with no mods done. I bolted one on my crawler with cvds. and the steering was insane. I will get some of the pics of that latter. by the way they have that same little offset that a tlt knuckle has so they spin nice and free once there installed. if anybody has any questions about let me know I will do some real world testing latter in the week with them. and update then. by the way I know i have the coolest coffee table in the world :crazy:

11-13-2007, 10:45 PM	#2
obijuan I had the hottest girlfriend at the MSD Nats Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Hecho en Tejas Posts: 2,399	dude, you suck at taking pics. i dont see any tlt parts anywhere. but really, try use the macro function. is there any noticeable increase in throw? i have hi-steer knucks and can touch the pumpkin both ways. basically, wondering how much better are these?

11-14-2007, 12:13 AM	#3
sloppy I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: akron Posts: 4,054	I would say yes more throw with cvd's for sure. I need to grind the stock stub axle down still to get maximum throw with the stock parts. I think to get all the steering these provide i would need to bend the steering link a little like you said they will hit the pumpkin. I dont have any other high clearance knuckles to compare these to so i cant say if they are better. They are cheaper and work. so i am happy yeah I am no photographer guy whats a macro.

11-14-2007, 07:34 AM	#4
rockhugger RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: crawlifornia Posts: 1,612	great find.

11-14-2007, 03:40 PM	#5
JeremyH I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 16,952	Yep, they work great! Been running those on a few of my trucks for a while: Just gotta grind a few mm off one of the mounts and you are good to go.

11-14-2007, 04:19 PM	#6
sloppy I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: akron Posts: 4,054	so jeremy how much did you grind off the yokes? it didnt look like i could get all the steering out with stock yokes without grinding. glad there working for someone else I cant wait to run them. I have cvds on the one rig so that one doesnt matter.

11-14-2007, 07:08 PM	#7
JeremyH I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 16,952	You mean the drive cups? I ground them down until I thought they start to pop off of the axle shaft. Never measured the amount, though.

11-14-2007, 08:16 PM	#8
hotwheels000 I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: under a rock and a hard place Posts: 5,443	I bent the crap out of the blue ones first time out, not enough reinforcing in the webbed area. Also if you are running CVD's/fatrocks you will end up grinding into the mounting bolt for the fat rock for max throw. There are other manufactures out there for these that are far superior if you want high steer, I have seen the products just dont know who the maker was. In the end I just went back to the standard alum knuckle and run a very small diameter tie rod.This will give you more clearance and if it does hang up on something it just bends out of the way,you can staighten it out by hand after the course is finished. Down side again is you may loose steering throw with a bent rod

11-14-2007, 08:35 PM	#9
dieselfuel I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Henderson/Las Vegas, NV Posts: 5,032	makes you wonder why some of the vendors here that make knuckles dont relocate the arms higher...

11-15-2007, 09:16 AM	#12
JeremyH I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 16,952	No problems with the knuckles or drive cups at all....and the rig picture above gets beat on pretty well.

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