First TXT came in yesterday

[T-Man]

Well, I traded a TXT for a T-Maxx that I was no longer using. I think it was a pretty good deal for me since I also got an E-Maxx tranny with the TXT.

Anyway, after looking at this, I can see that I want to lock the axles and stretch the wheel base. I have done some searches, and noticed that 15.5-16.6 is about the wheelbase to shoot for (which is what I like on my Clod)

Question, are there any companies that make a locker/spool for the TXT axles? I got them pretty cheap for my E-Maxx, so I figured that someone would have some for the TXT as well.

Next, why should I swap in the E-Maxx tranny instead of just using the TXT tranny? Is there a big benefit to the E-Maxx tranny over the TXT tranny?

Also, what is the best way to mount the links? my links are on the bottom of the axle, and I want to get the bottom of the axles more flat instead of having the pieces that are hanging down the way they are.

And finally, should I put the Cants back on, or keep the link mounted shocks to the chassis the way it came? I know this is a big debate, so this might be fun.

Thanks for any input you can give me. I look forward to playing with this shafty, and it looks like it is going to be a pretty fun crawler to play with.

Mark

[nodnarb22]

Originally Posted by T-Man

Next, why should I swap in the E-Maxx tranny instead of just using the TXT tranny? Is there a big benefit to the E-Maxx tranny over the TXT tranny?

Okay im going out on a limb trying to answer this as i dont have a txt or shafty my self. Theirs two reasons for the emaxx tranny i believe.

1) Lower COG of the motor plus the ability to choose eather 1st/2nd to allow for more choices on gearing.
2) Its an easier way to get the traxxas slider shafts incompassed with the tranny.

Correct me if im wrong guys.

[cman_1500w]

Well, I'll be the first to say it since I know this guy pretty well...........SEARCH!!!

j/k man! Congrats on the txt and welcome to the world of shafties where torque steer makes for one fun ride! I can't wait to see what it can do on the rocks!

Hehe, I don't have a txt but I have read quite a bit on them and know a thing or two.

as for the lockers check out this link. There's a few to choose from.
http://rc4wd.com/shop/index.php?cPath=1_3

The emaxx tranny over the txt one is cool b/c it allows you to shift gears so if you want a 2spd (like mine is ) then it's good to use. Personally I like having that option.

It seems most people mount their bottom links on the most inside hole on the top link mount of the axle.

Canti's are over rated imo. Keep the direct shock setup.

You might wanna check out Badger's txt or that Project Lowrider a few threads down. They seem to be VERY capable crawlers. Oh and not to mention Dirk's article on the 10 ways to build a better txt.

[badger]

Congradulations on the TXT!

The WB you are going to run is really dependant on where you crawl, and how much you chop off the center part of the chassis.

I guess if you have the money a locker would be cool, otherwise buy some JB-Weld and lock the diffs. It is very easy to do.

I only crawl with my TXT so I really don't care to put a emaxx tranny in it. I think it depends on what you plan to do with your TXT.

I had my links mounted in the same mounting point on the chassis and that is "supposed" to help with torqe twist but I did not see any difference. I moved my links back to the "typical" mounting method and fixed the torqe twist with my shock positions.

Throw the canti's away IMO. My latest shock configuration has been the best setup yet. I have almost completely (~95%) got rid of the torqe twist.

One more thing I will through in. Battery position, this is extremely crucial (IMO) to good COG. I really like my battery setup, BUT it did take some work to get it. Rckjeeps newest battery position is very easy to do initially and I have seems HUGE improvements in his trucks stability. You can see it the most when he drives down a steep bumpy rock surface and his truck just seems glued to the rocks. It does not want to flip over the front at all, and I believe this is from the battery being as close to the center as possible.



Few, that was long! Wake up now and work on your TXT.

[TwistedXT]

Originally Posted by T-Man

Question, are there any companies that make a locker/spool for the TXT axles? I got them pretty cheap for my E-Maxx, so I figured that someone would have some for the TXT as well.
Mark

Alot of us used either diff lube fluid or plain old JB Weld... Ive got JB in the front and rear of my rig...

Originally Posted by T-Man

Next, why should I swap in the E-Maxx tranny instead of just using the TXT tranny? Is there a big benefit to the E-Maxx tranny over the TXT tranny?
Mark

If i remember right, a gear reduction unit will not bolt up as easily to the emaxx tranny ass it would to the txt tanny. the gd600 is easily adaptable to the txt tranny.

Originally Posted by T-Man

Also, what is the best way to mount the links? my links are on the bottom of the axle, and I want to get the bottom of the axles more flat instead of having the pieces that are hanging down the way they are.
Mark

here are some pics of a stoxk txt with the links moved to the top of the axle:






I hope that maybe on of these pics help.....

Originally Posted by T-Man

And finally, should I put the Cants back on, or keep the link mounted shocks to the chassis the way it came? I know this is a big debate, so this might be fun.
Mark

From what some people have been saying, having axle/link mounted shocks tends to help take care of the dreaded torque problem that the TXT is born with... im actually in the middle of doing so myself... just trying to get some HPI Savage shocks to mount. One thing that you might or might not know is that if you extend the wheelbase, the stock revos shafts work great! there is alot of info on the forum for txt, in fact someone did a write up on how to make it fit. I got my shafts at HobbyTown USA for 12 bucks a piece. have fun

[badger]

Ohh yeah, in case you don't already know where my pics are.

http://www.nor-calrcrc.com/modules.p...view_album.php

In the "Modified TXT V4" gallery is the lastest version of my TXT.

[rckjeep]

Hey twisted? Has that truck even seen rocks yet? There isn't even any rock rash on the axles.

[T-Man]

Hey Badger, what wheelbase are you running, and what length are your links?

I think I will start with what I have for now, and go from there. If the spools are $70 each, I see some JB weld in my future. :? Don't see spending that kind of money on a spool. I only paid $7.50 for the E-Maxx spools.

I have been looking at this truck, and I see alot of opportunity, and it will be much easier to get this shafty going rather than doing the E-Maxx set-up that I have been looking at doing. At least for now.

Thanks ya'll, and I will let you know the progress as the time goes along.

mark

[badger]

I am running a 15 5/8" WB. I will measure the links tonight and let you know.

[T-Man]

Badger, something else, are those LST's mounted on TXT rims? or are they on some other kind of rim?

[rckjeep]

Yup those are LST's on TXT rims. He used my Beadlocks rings to mount them.

[TwistedXT]

i've had it out a coupe of times, those pics are from when i first started building it... so far the past couple of months have been the following...:
"ok, this would be cool .....wheel it... dooh! ... that sucked"
"ok, this would be cool. wheel it... dooh! ... that sucked"
"ok, this would be cool. ..wheel it... dooh!...that sucked"
"ok, this would be cool....wheel it...dooh!.. that sucked"
"ok, this would be cool.... ...wheel it.. dooh! .. that sucked"
"ok, this would be cool... . wheel it... dooh! ... that sucked"
"ok, this would be cool ....wheel it... dooh! ... that sucked"

see where im going with this? so i finally gave up and am doing stuff the right way, by some what copying others. I have raised the tranny and have set up a jig to hold the frame and axles in place, i'll be rebuilding my links soon, once i find some long 4mm fine threaded rod so i can use the stock ball cups. I have also chucked the cantis and am trying to do a deal on some Savage shocks so i can mount them to the axle and i'll be choppin the frame soon. then, its on! well... until:
"ok, this would be cool.... ... dooh!"
... fun fun...

[badger]

Originally Posted by TwistedXT

once i find some long 4mm fine threaded rod

I don't even bother buying 4mm threaded rod anymore. I just buy long 4mm screws and cut of the head. Then I cut the screw to the length I want for the rod ends.

[T-Man]

Originally Posted by badger

I am running a 15 5/8" WB. I will measure the links tonight and let you know.

Hey Badger, did you get a chance last night to measure your links? If not, I can wait. I just have some 6" links that are already threaded for 8/32 and I have some Associated and Kyosho link ends, just not sure if the will fit on the ball the TXT has. If not, then I have to figure that out....not to difficult from what I can see so far.

So, what are ya'll using for the driveshafts when you stretch them out? Revo Drive Shafts? or Revo Axle Shafts? I have heard both, and I thought I read somewhere that the axle shafts were better because they had a longer throw, but I can't find that again.

And if someone has the part number, I can get them ordered today.

[TwistedXT]

Where are you getting long 4mm screws? I have looked at:
Home Depot
2 local hobbie shops
Ace Hardware
3 no name hardware stores
Lowes
Walmart
Pepboyz
Autozone
Checkers
....
I found them on www.mcmasters.com but i dont feel like paying 20 bucks for them.... if i do im orderin a load of em.

[badger]

I buy mine from Ace Hobbies down the street. You can order them from there web site, they are just rcscrewz.

I buy the "4x40mm Button Head Screw 25pcs" for $3.50 at Ace.

It's funny because rcscrewz.com sells 10pcs for $3.50 :?

http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/ca...mp;&page=2

[badger]

Originally Posted by T-Man

Hey Badger, did you get a chance last night to measure your links?

Sorry about that.

Here are the my link length's:

Lower front - 5 3/8"
Upper front - 5 1/4"

Lower rear - 5 9/16"
Upper rear - 5 1/2"

The measurements are from eye hole to eye hole in the rod ends. I use 1/8 scale rod ends and are 1" in total length.

As I said in another post, it was not intentional to make the rear longer. I measured wrong when cutting the fronts and when I remounted the front links I was back to 15 5/8" WB, so I did not need to cut the rear. This seems to be the new thing to do anyway so I don't mind.

[TwistedXT]

ok, here is my design...
i have hollow alum rod for the links and i want to run the rod all the way through the link to each ball cap. soo... they need to be like 7" long to be safe, so i can cut them down to size... that is why i cant find them... on my last links i tried buying screws and cutting the heads off, and then JB welding them in place... yeah, that was one of those.. "this should work...... "snap!"... nope" i just might end up ordering a bunch of rod from mc masters.com. they sell it in 2 foot and 3 foot lenghts, while im at it i might even order mor alum tubing... their prices are cheap but you get drilled in shipping, my first mistake was ordering 6 foot lenght of tubing, yeah 20bucks in shipping for 6 bucks in rod... but you gotta do what you gotta do.


how did you guys make your links?,... maybe im missing something.

[rckjeep]

You don't nessasarily need 4mm rod. You could use standard stuff as long as it's slightly bigger than 4mm. Try 8-32.

[T-Man]

Thanks Badger. If I understand that right, that would mean that the links are in the 4" range. I will play with that and check it out. Maybe I can take the links from my old INET chassis and use those since I am using diffent lengths on the CLOD.