RCCrawler Forums

HULK · 02-22-2005, 09:08 PM

So, I am obviously very new to TXT and shaftys all together- Heck I am new to RCs all together, and have read that the shafties have issues with torque twist. In other words, the whole frame twists upon acceleration. What can be done to rememdy this? Wouldnt this be a hinderance to crawling if it twisted while you were accelerating into an obstacle? What things can be done to deal with this? I am planning on running VERY soft shocks- so this is a bit of a concern. If anyone has ideas I would appreciate it. Thanks.
josh

MountainGoat · 02-22-2005, 09:19 PM

well most of the time you get the twist with excell either way.If you hit forward it twist one way and reverse the other.It can be delt with by putting an extra spacer of what ever size you need with your shocks on the rear shock and get the force of the accell. like the right rear shock and the front left. this helps the spring tension usualy enough to help take care of most of this.Mine all but went away when I took out the canties and put a custom shock set up mounted to the chassis with tmaxx shock you still get about 70% and thats about all you really need.Look up rckjeep and see his set up thats about what mine is.wannabedigler and sr5dave have a tone of know how and ideas as well as if you look up the trucks rocktopus and I think twisted you'll see good set ups

also if you send me your email,I can try to send you pics of my set up I think I have some shotts of it!

HULK · 02-22-2005, 09:49 PM

Huh? That was confusing....
So, by using tmaxx shocks attached to the frame rather than canties you get less torque twist? Is that it? Then you are basically saying to put stiffer shocks on the side you are getting the tiwst on? Is that what youre saying?
Still confused- how do I rememdy this?
josh

MountainGoat · 02-22-2005, 10:03 PM

Sorry I tend to ramble!I have "sometimers!" ailment! Anyway yes you can use either a littler stiffer spring on that side or simply use a tmaxx shock spacer.You can really use any shocks if you look at roctpus he uses savage shock, which were my first choice but either you have to make shock mounts like his to not be too high and still have the flex,or use a tmaxx size shock.(exc. hot bodies threaded shocks 19.99 a pair and no need for the spacer !)Look at the post I think its rck jeep, he posted pics of his set up i a forum a while back under txt/jugg and it works,is simple. and you lose that T thrust!

I mean and one ine the left front..its limits travel in the fact that one spring on each "sides" shock that get the force of the thrust would have one on, so no the reverse would be helped too. (like an X right rear front left ) But as far as if the shocks won't take one,you can buy clamping shock stays for losi shocks a C with a screw on one end if the body is smooth,or even threaded put it as far up or down as you need and tighten then if won't move and the shock stops at it........you know what lose the canties and do the tmaxx shocks bolted to the chassis in the right place like badger said!

HULK · 02-22-2005, 10:09 PM

Well, here is the problem, the shocks I am running will not have the ability to run a spacer on them. So I cant really make one side stiffer than the other. Besides, one stiffer side wouldnt help for reverse anyways, ti would just flop further teh other direction right?
Any other ways around this?

badger · 02-22-2005, 10:26 PM

I eliminated almost all of my torqe twist by doing the following:

1. Axle mounting the shocks, and finding the correct shock posistions
2. Spring rates are critical. I use the stiffest rate in the right rear.

Thats all I can remember for now.

twisted84toyota · 02-23-2005, 02:26 AM

my TXT has minimal twist and i still run the cants. i have threaded X factor shock)longer than most) and have the shocks at an angle like on the XF and i run more tension on the RT rear and it works well for what crawling we have here........................

minitrucker · 04-02-2005, 12:23 AM

Im trying to get some ideas for my shocks on my txt. how about some pics guys?

stlcrawler · 04-02-2005, 06:36 AM

You should check out Roctopus. I have a similar set up http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/neonrc.../ph//my_photos .
It ius important to not lay your shocks down too much, as this affects there ability to controle the movement of the axle and chassis. A shock standing up straight above the axle has better leverage. I noticed you said you were using VERY soft shocks on your crawler. Soft springs and shocks are not always the answer. You would be suprised at how stiff of a spring and shock you can use and still get great flex.

Etype R · 04-02-2005, 08:10 AM

I run savage shocks on my Jugg crawler which is almost finished. And from the few test runs I've taken it on it has no torque twist at all. The shocks have a little bit of a lay back angle on them, but not much. And all the weight is as low as I can get it in the chassis.

And as for flex, the shocks almost bottom out. But they come up short, less then a inch left in travel. So I am lossing some flex but its still pretty good. I flex up on top of a pringles can right now, not sure if I had any travel left after that though?

fullmodtxt · 04-02-2005, 11:20 AM

Hulk, welcome! How serious do you want to go with your TXT? If you want to make an all-out crawler, then this is what I reccomend:

16 inch wheelbase, using custom links and mounting points.
Relocated battery (as far forward and down low as you can get it).
Trim off all unnecessary portions of the frame.
LST or BFT tires.
Independent 4 wheel steering with servos of atleast 200oz torque rating.
90 degree rotated tranny with a single motor and gear reduction (GD-600 is the most common reduction unit).

As for the shock thing goes, lots of guys here will reccomend ditching the cantis and running standard type mounts. Nothing wrong with that setup, it can work very well. I prefer to keep the cantis, and have figured out how to eliminate the torque roll. Here is how mine is set up: I moved the canti mounting points further apart to match the wheelbase and keep the setup reasonably "square" (or avoid funky angles in the cantis that can screw with spring rates). I am running threaded body Maxx size shocks, with standard red maxx spring on both fronts and the left rear. On the right rear I have a blue maxx spring, which is rather stiff, and I ran the adjuster ring in quite a bit. The left rear adjuster ring is in by some, maybe 1/2 the length of the threaded body. The front suspension is soft, and it compresses some under the wieght of the truck. The rear is stiffer, but the suspension still reaches full articulation with just the truck's own wieght when you lift a tire.
Suspension link geometry is also important, so here is a quick rundown on that; most important is that your links are parallel. Parallel as in both the uppers and lowers, and then both bieng parallel to the ground. You also want them to be close to the same length. I like to have both the upper and lower links triangulated. My uppers are close together at the axle mounts and my lowers are close together on the opposite end, the frame mounts. The amount of triangulation is about the same, uppers and lowers. Here is a link to my webshots album, where you can see the whole setup:

http://community.webshots.com/album/303175551sjwKXw

Don't be thrown off by the links bieng bent, that's just to clear the tires and servos. The mounting points and lengths are all the same. Anyhow, I hope all this typing helped!

02-22-2005, 09:08 PM	#1
HULK Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Cold land Posts: 231	Torque twist? So, I am obviously very new to TXT and shaftys all together- Heck I am new to RCs all together, and have read that the shafties have issues with torque twist. In other words, the whole frame twists upon acceleration. What can be done to rememdy this? Wouldnt this be a hinderance to crawling if it twisted while you were accelerating into an obstacle? What things can be done to deal with this? I am planning on running VERY soft shocks- so this is a bit of a concern. If anyone has ideas I would appreciate it. Thanks. josh

02-22-2005, 10:03 PM	#4
MountainGoat Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Chattanooga Posts: 86	Sorry I tend to ramble!I have "sometimers!" ailment! Anyway yes you can use either a littler stiffer spring on that side or simply use a tmaxx shock spacer.You can really use any shocks if you look at roctpus he uses savage shock, which were my first choice but either you have to make shock mounts like his to not be too high and still have the flex,or use a tmaxx size shock.(exc. hot bodies threaded shocks 19.99 a pair and no need for the spacer !)Look at the post I think its rck jeep, he posted pics of his set up i a forum a while back under txt/jugg and it works,is simple. and you lose that T thrust! I mean and one ine the left front..its limits travel in the fact that one spring on each "sides" shock that get the force of the thrust would have one on, so no the reverse would be helped too. (like an X right rear front left ) But as far as if the shocks won't take one,you can buy clamping shock stays for losi shocks a C with a screw on one end if the body is smooth,or even threaded put it as far up or down as you need and tighten then if won't move and the shock stops at it........you know what lose the canties and do the tmaxx shocks bolted to the chassis in the right place like badger said! Last edited by MountainGoat; 02-22-2005 at 10:58 PM.

02-23-2005, 02:26 AM	#7
twisted84toyota Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Frayed ends of sanity Posts: 400	my TXT has minimal twist and i still run the cants. i have threaded X factor shock)longer than most) and have the shocks at an angle like on the XF and i run more tension on the RT rear and it works well for what crawling we have here........................ Last edited by twisted84toyota; 02-23-2005 at 02:30 AM.

02-22-2005, 09:19 PM	#2
MountainGoat Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Chattanooga Posts: 86	well most of the time you get the twist with excell either way.If you hit forward it twist one way and reverse the other.It can be delt with by putting an extra spacer of what ever size you need with your shocks on the rear shock and get the force of the accell. like the right rear shock and the front left. this helps the spring tension usualy enough to help take care of most of this.Mine all but went away when I took out the canties and put a custom shock set up mounted to the chassis with tmaxx shock you still get about 70% and thats about all you really need.Look up rckjeep and see his set up thats about what mine is.wannabedigler and sr5dave have a tone of know how and ideas as well as if you look up the trucks rocktopus and I think twisted you'll see good set ups also if you send me your email,I can try to send you pics of my set up I think I have some shotts of it!

02-22-2005, 09:49 PM	#3
HULK Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Cold land Posts: 231	Huh? That was confusing.... So, by using tmaxx shocks attached to the frame rather than canties you get less torque twist? Is that it? Then you are basically saying to put stiffer shocks on the side you are getting the tiwst on? Is that what youre saying? Still confused- how do I rememdy this? josh

02-22-2005, 10:09 PM	#5
HULK Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Cold land Posts: 231	Well, here is the problem, the shocks I am running will not have the ability to run a spacer on them. So I cant really make one side stiffer than the other. Besides, one stiffer side wouldnt help for reverse anyways, ti would just flop further teh other direction right? Any other ways around this?

02-22-2005, 10:26 PM	#6
badger Diggin' the new SCX10 II! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Norcal Posts: 11,402	I eliminated almost all of my torqe twist by doing the following: 1. Axle mounting the shocks, and finding the correct shock posistions 2. Spring rates are critical. I use the stiffest rate in the right rear. Thats all I can remember for now.

04-02-2005, 12:23 AM	#8
minitrucker Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Phoenix Posts: 139	Im trying to get some ideas for my shocks on my txt. how about some pics guys?

04-02-2005, 06:36 AM	#9
stlcrawler Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Saint Louis MO Posts: 58	You should check out Roctopus. I have a similar set up http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/neonrc.../ph//my_photos . It ius important to not lay your shocks down too much, as this affects there ability to controle the movement of the axle and chassis. A shock standing up straight above the axle has better leverage. I noticed you said you were using VERY soft shocks on your crawler. Soft springs and shocks are not always the answer. You would be suprised at how stiff of a spring and shock you can use and still get great flex.

04-02-2005, 08:10 AM	#10
Etype R Web Wheeling Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Twin Cities Posts: 3,004	I run savage shocks on my Jugg crawler which is almost finished. And from the few test runs I've taken it on it has no torque twist at all. The shocks have a little bit of a lay back angle on them, but not much. And all the weight is as low as I can get it in the chassis. And as for flex, the shocks almost bottom out. But they come up short, less then a inch left in travel. So I am lossing some flex but its still pretty good. I flex up on top of a pringles can right now, not sure if I had any travel left after that though?

04-02-2005, 11:20 AM	#11
fullmodtxt Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2004 Location: Hartford, Connecticut Posts: 355	Hulk, welcome! How serious do you want to go with your TXT? If you want to make an all-out crawler, then this is what I reccomend: 16 inch wheelbase, using custom links and mounting points. Relocated battery (as far forward and down low as you can get it). Trim off all unnecessary portions of the frame. LST or BFT tires. Independent 4 wheel steering with servos of atleast 200oz torque rating. 90 degree rotated tranny with a single motor and gear reduction (GD-600 is the most common reduction unit). As for the shock thing goes, lots of guys here will reccomend ditching the cantis and running standard type mounts. Nothing wrong with that setup, it can work very well. I prefer to keep the cantis, and have figured out how to eliminate the torque roll. Here is how mine is set up: I moved the canti mounting points further apart to match the wheelbase and keep the setup reasonably "square" (or avoid funky angles in the cantis that can screw with spring rates). I am running threaded body Maxx size shocks, with standard red maxx spring on both fronts and the left rear. On the right rear I have a blue maxx spring, which is rather stiff, and I ran the adjuster ring in quite a bit. The left rear adjuster ring is in by some, maybe 1/2 the length of the threaded body. The front suspension is soft, and it compresses some under the wieght of the truck. The rear is stiffer, but the suspension still reaches full articulation with just the truck's own wieght when you lift a tire. Suspension link geometry is also important, so here is a quick rundown on that; most important is that your links are parallel. Parallel as in both the uppers and lowers, and then both bieng parallel to the ground. You also want them to be close to the same length. I like to have both the upper and lower links triangulated. My uppers are close together at the axle mounts and my lowers are close together on the opposite end, the frame mounts. The amount of triangulation is about the same, uppers and lowers. Here is a link to my webshots album, where you can see the whole setup: http://community.webshots.com/album/303175551sjwKXw Don't be thrown off by the links bieng bent, that's just to clear the tires and servos. The mounting points and lengths are all the same. Anyhow, I hope all this typing helped!

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