High Turn Motor VS Silver Can 27T Plus GRU

[OkinawaCrawler]

Title says it all. I'm debating on using the stock standard 540 plus a GRU or a high turn motor, say a 65t lathe motor. What do you think is best?

[Louisbaby]

Honestly, it depends on how you will use the CC01. I've tried all the setups, and a higher turn motor is a good trail riding combo. 35-55 turn motor is good enough. Now if you want to start climbing rocks, and wheels speed isn't an issue, then use a GRU. This will require battery relocation, and some additional mods to the chassis tub. If you go this route, be aware of getting your front wheels bound up, and snapping the dogbones.

Basically, it boils down to how you going to drive it...

[OkinawaCrawler]

Originally Posted by Louisbaby

Honestly, it depends on how you will use the CC01. I've tried all the setups, and a higher turn motor is a good trail riding combo. 35-55 turn motor is good enough. Now if you want to start climbing rocks, and wheels speed isn't an issue, then use a GRU. This will require battery relocation, and some additional mods to the chassis tub. If you go this route, be aware of getting your front wheels bound up, and snapping the dogbones.

Basically, it boils down to how you going to drive it...

Based on what you said, it sounds like I would be better off with a high turn motor. Ironically, I don't really rock crawl even though I'm on a rock crawling forum.

[Louisbaby]

With a few mods, your CC01 will keep up to a SCX10, not everywhere, but in most places. My CC01 sticks to my mates SCX10 on most surfaces, mud, sand, rocks, etc.

And I'm running a 45 turn RC4WD motor with a crawler ESC.

[OkinawaCrawler]

Originally Posted by Louisbaby

With a few mods, your CC01 will keep up to a SCX10, not everywhere, but in most places. My CC01 sticks to my mates SCX10 on most surfaces, mud, sand, rocks, etc.

And I'm running a 45 turn RC4WD motor with a crawler ESC.

What would be required to keep up with a scx10?

[Louisbaby]

Well the basic mods, front suspension lift, GPM aluminum steering mod, cut off the "brick" in front, adjustable shocks. Your CC01 will never be better than a SCx10, but it will come close. I'll post a link to a CC01 build with all the mods soon.

[user unrelated]

I have a 65T lathe motor in my CC-01, and it is pretty decent, but going real slow, it will still heat up quite a bit. I don't really worry about it too much, it's way less than a harmful temperature, but reaching into a scaler and feeling a 130*F motor was definitely a new thing for me.

My motor is an Integy lathe motor. It doesn't quite have the super super low-end take-off grunt like you'd expect, but it has PLENTY of go power to push the truck around at low speeds, and still gets up to a reasonable clip at full throttle.

I am still looking into a GRU, though, particularly this one, because it's cheap, and I'm relatively "poor" (and I have access to a lathe to turn down the output shaft from 5mm to fit the 1/8" tamiya pinion)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSL79&P=ML
I'd run it with a 35T motor, I want the 65T for something else.
here it is in a Telluride
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...psac088b5c.jpg
I'm thinking that maybe it would push the motor up high enough to allow for a thin soft-case LiPo to fit underneath. (I've been thinking about getting some 3000MAh 2S's for my scalers)

My CC-01 comes nowhere close to keeping up with the SCX10 I used to own, but I like it way more. It can actually climb a steeper incline, though.
The best mod that I have done to mine is to cut the front brick off, and the second best was to make custom rear links that mount the bottom links up on the SIDE of the chassis so they don't get caught on things.

[Argo]

Hi, I am new to the forum. I have an old CC01 Pajero Chassis that I am resuscitating from several years in storage. It is a 1/10th scale "mini me" version of my 1996 Ford F-150 that I built using the King Blackfoot body. I am interested in upgrading it while I rebuild it, so I am looking in to some 1.55" wheels that are similar to the factory alloys on my full scale rig and trying to find 3.1" diameter tires (my real truck runs 31" tires, and I am looking for something similar that resembles B.F. Goodrich All Terrain TA tires). I have noticed in the past how hot the motor gets when "crawling" or even trail running. I was wondering if a reduction unit coupled to a high RPM motor might give me the ability to crawl but still keep a "stock" top speed? I was thinking of an old but barely used 19 turn motor I have had that I only raced 3 times (about 12 years ago). I am looking at this reduction unit ( TowerHobbies.com | HPI Racing Reduction Gear Box Set Wheely King ) and a 5000 mah pack to give me reasonable run time. I am not looking for a lot of speed, but since my straight six powered F-150 can top 90 mph (ok, on a good day, with a strong tail wind), I think this should be able to do 9 mph. I'll try the stock 540 that I have and see if it can do that, and if not, maybe I'll try the 19 to give me a tittle more top end with the reduction unit. I am excited to get the dust blown off and hit the trail with the old girl again. This is a great site by the way and I am glad to have found it! I'll post up pictures when I get it finished. Also, how does one lock the differentials? My car has open diffs front and back. I'd like to lock the rear and leave the front open. I have experimented with using rubber "o" rings as friction material on the back sides of the side gears to make it behave like a limited slip, but they get chewed up pretty fast. When they are fresh it works nice though. Thanks for any advice you can give this stuck in the late 90s R/C dinosaur ans I get caught up to the way you guys do things in the 21st century!

[Louisbaby]

Well Argo, start a build thread of your own for the rebuild. It's always interesting to follow somebody else's CC01 rebuilds...

[user unrelated]

If you apply a gear reduction unit, the top speed will drop, no matter what motor you have installed.
A 19T motor, even with a GRU, might be similar to the stock 27T motor without a GRU, as in, it won't have much low-end push, and will probably heat up trying to crawl.
If you want low-end torque, and a cool-running motor, you really need to sacrifice top-end, there's just no way around it.

[Louisbaby]

I totally agree with User Unrelated, when I ran a 19 turn motor with my HPI GRU, it had a good walking speed, and ridiculous torque. So much torque in fact, that I twisted off one of my dogbones. But the heat is the killer. That GRU got so hot from full throttle driving, that I was forced to remove and re grease it after every second run. If I didn't, the sound was unbearable.

Pros and cons...

[89redranger]

I'm running my HPI GRU full of white lithium grease. Nice and quiet, stays cool, and doesn't break down into slimy oil like most grease. I've only got about 1 pack through it so far (I'm not actually done with it), but so far so good. Used to run the same grease in a Crawler King I had momentarily a few years back. Worked great then too. I was tickled to find out the HPI unit would fit in this chassis. Been there, done that.

[Argo]

Thanks for the feedback and replies. I have been out of the hobby for a long time... life just happened. I have had the old truck sitting on a shelf for so ling just collecting dust. I decided to bring it back. A lot of things have changed since the last time I ran it. There were no GRUs, no brushless motors, and a Futaba Magnum Junior was a high end radio. I'll be rocking one of the original pistol grips when I put the Little Argo back on the trail. I think I will try the GRU and the stock Mabuchi 540 motor for starters, and go from there.