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Old 03-18-2010, 09:41 PM   #1
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Default Ryan's LCC...building the cage

I think I have my LCC running pretty good now.
Setup:
Novak Goat (2S old version. Always works.)
2200 2S Zippy packs
Spektrum Rx, Futaba 3PK w/Spek module
JR DS8411 on the steering, HS85 on the dig
6oz. in the fronts, haven't done the back yet.
Axial driveshafts and shocks from the AX-10


I wanted more droop so I began narrowing down the components that were preventing it. First was the shocks. They are a bit short for my taste, so I swapped them out with the shocks from the AX-10.

The next obstacle was the CV's on the driveshafts. The limited operating angle caused the next binding point, and limited the droop. I swapped these out for the AX-10 shafts. The build quality isn't as good as the Losi shafts, but hold up to what I put them through. More importantly, they gave me more droop without binding.

The last obstacle to get the droop I wanted was the servo mounting plates. The upper links will hit them. I removed the one on the rear axle because I don't use it or mount anything on it, and this is where the big gain is had. The front is needed obviously, but I massaged it with the Dremmel as much as I could.

I gained almost 1.5" of center clearance with these mods.

The next thing was to install a set-screw fill hole in the front diff. Clean and flush.

The last mod I did was to swap the holes that the body posts and the frame spacers go through. This mounts the body posts higher and gives more side clearance. You'll need to drill another hole in your body as the spacing is a little wider.




This is the difference in maximum working driveline angles between the Losi and Axial driveshafts:



My center ground clearance is 3" with my current fuel tubing shock limiters, but could be as low as about 2.25" if I needed it to.



Max center clearance is about 4.5"



This is about all the extra clearance I could shave from the front servo tray



Front fill hole. Flush inside and outside. 5-40 setscrew was used.



New body post position

Last edited by RyansRubicon.co; 03-28-2010 at 12:13 PM.
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Old 03-18-2010, 10:39 PM   #2
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nice i wondered if the axial driveshafts would fit on there let me know how they do
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Old 03-19-2010, 06:03 AM   #3
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Just curious what your wheelbase is at ride height and what it is at full droop.
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Old 03-19-2010, 07:22 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvo View Post
Just curious what your wheelbase is at ride height and what it is at full droop.
12 1/8" at ride height, 10 5/8" at full droop.
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Old 03-19-2010, 07:35 AM   #5
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Just wondering, what type of terrain do you run on that you need that much ground clearance?

Can we get a pic with the body on to see what it looks like on the new mounts?
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Old 03-19-2010, 08:06 AM   #6
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Wow, that's a lot of droop. I don't think I would like that much, but impressive changes nonetheless.
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Old 03-19-2010, 08:08 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engineerjoe View Post
Just wondering, what type of terrain do you run on that you need that much ground clearance?

Can we get a pic with the body on to see what it looks like on the new mounts?
The rocks I'm running on have very large and steep breakovers that require lots of droop to keep the tires in contact with the rocks. The normal ride height of the truck is not that high, it just has lots of droop.

I'll get a pic with the body on after work. You can mount the body at the same height, you just drill new holes higher up on the body line. This just gets the body posts higher up so they can't scrape against rocks as easily.
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Old 03-19-2010, 08:24 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyansRubicon.co View Post
The rocks I'm running on have very large and steep breakovers that require lots of droop to keep the tires in contact with the rocks. The normal ride height of the truck is not that high, it just has lots of droop.

I'll get a pic with the body on after work. You can mount the body at the same height, you just drill new holes higher up on the body line. This just gets the body posts higher up so they can't scrape against rocks as easily.

Oh, I see (with respect to the body) no need for a pic, I get it.

You know you can do a 2 post vertical mount very easy using the shock mount crossmembers (the factory holes just need to be drilled out a little) This gets the mounts off the sides all together.
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Old 03-19-2010, 08:25 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engineerjoe View Post
Oh, I see (with respect to the body) no need for a pic, I get it.

You know you can do a 2 post vertical mount very easy using the shock mount crossmembers (the factory holes just need to be drilled out a little) This gets the mounts off the sides all together.
Good point, I think I'll end up going magnets or velcro in the end.
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Old 03-19-2010, 07:53 PM   #10
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Got the body on today. These rocks are the reason I run a droop setup!





















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Old 03-19-2010, 09:08 PM   #11
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I did some runs, and was able to lower it down and still clean the lines, so right now the center clearance is 2 1/2" static, and 4" at full droop.
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Old 03-19-2010, 09:20 PM   #12
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That thing can't side hill for a thing sittin that high, my losi is a little bit lower than stock and still doesn't side hill great, but I use a little bit taller tire but I'd think that thing would flip on any side hill around here


Check my vids of my comp crawler on youtube to see how it side hills, my yourube account is chevyon37s. The vids should be labeled as losi comp crawler at my home course and comp practice
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Old 03-19-2010, 09:41 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2500hdon37s View Post
That thing can't side hill for a thing sittin that high, my losi is a little bit lower than stock and still doesn't side hill great, but I use a little bit taller tire but I'd think that thing would flip on any side hill around here


Check my vids of my comp crawler on youtube to see how it side hills, my yourube account is chevyon37s. The vids should be labeled as losi comp crawler at my home course and comp practice
It does just fine. All my weight is down low so it's deceiving. The CG of the vehicle is a lot lower than it appears.
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Old 03-20-2010, 10:57 AM   #14
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Not to argue, but how is the "weight down low"? It's running the stock plastic wheels with only 6 ounces in the front, none in the rear and then the rest of the weight is well above the centerline of the tires. It really looks like it will tumble like a RedCat on any decent sidehill.....Have any video of it?
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Old 03-20-2010, 03:59 PM   #15
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Just this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJnbOslQpCQ
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Old 03-20-2010, 06:14 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyansRubicon.co View Post
for a strange setup, it seems to work pretty good. I really only saw the suspension unweight a couple times, but if you use dig a lot you should be able to control it.

I really liked my droop setup on my axial, when they are done right it can be as predictable as a sprung setup.
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Old 03-20-2010, 06:19 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engineerjoe View Post
for a strange setup, it seems to work pretty good. I really only saw the suspension unweight a couple times, but if you use dig a lot you should be able to control it.

I really liked my droop setup on my axial, when they are done right it can be as predictable as a sprung setup.
Thanks. I agree the setup is unconventional but the dig keeps the shocks from unloading. I'm still experimenting on the setup (Aren't we all???)
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Old 03-20-2010, 06:22 PM   #18
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Looks good man, least your not afraid to try different things out. If it works well for you thats all that matters.
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Old 03-20-2010, 10:51 PM   #19
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I run about a 90% droop on my Cliffy, that made a tremendous difference over stock on the driveability on the rocks. I don't think I'm gonna droop the LCC, looks like it'll do really well where it's at.
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Old 03-21-2010, 07:02 AM   #20
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, its like taking a step back when using the axials shocks and uber weak axial driveshafts
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