Turning LNC into a LCC driveshafts binding?

[skkeeter]

So basically I'm upgrading my LNC into a LCC to give to my Dad for Father's day. I installed a LCC dig tranny and swapped the lower links. The upper LNC links are still there. I also upgraded to chassis to LCC status. The driveshafts are the stock LNC and they are binding causing lots of friction. If I turn the crawler upside down, releasing the angled tension on the driveshafts, it runs smoothly. But when it's placed right side up, the angle of the driveshafts makes them too long and the whole system starts causing friction and binds when turned. Anybody else encounter this problem or have an easy fix? I guess I can buy LCC driveshafts if the LNC one's are just too long. Thanks,
Skkeeter

[rcpro31]

you could probably just dremel the shafts a little bit so they dont bind....

[dasco]

Originally Posted by skkeeter

So basically I'm upgrading my LNC into a LCC to give to my Dad for Father's day. I installed a LCC dig tranny and swapped the lower links. The upper LNC links are still there. I also upgraded to chassis to LCC status. The driveshafts are the stock LNC and they are binding causing lots of friction. If I turn the crawler upside down, releasing the angled tension on the driveshafts, it runs smoothly. But when it's placed right side up, the angle of the driveshafts makes them too long and the whole system starts causing friction and binds when turned. Anybody else encounter this problem or have an easy fix? I guess I can buy LCC driveshafts if the LNC one's are just too long. Thanks,
Skkeeter

im running a lnc with lcc dig tranny....but i use the lcc shafts....a cheaper alternative is the integy ax10 shafts...but there thicker...so at the end of the day the best performance ...lcc shafts

[chino925]

internal limiters or mount the shocks to the chassie instead of the battery holder

[aconsola]

I just installed LNC driveshafts on my comp crawler to try to get more clearance for bent delrin lower links.
As you found, there is some binding in the driveshafts due to the different geometry between the rigs, here is how I solved that:

Prior to doing the swap I already had external limiters in my shocks as part of a suspension setup copied from Delmonte (from about 2 months ago)

first I used a grinding wheel to grind down the back side of each of the cups and yokes about 1mm making sure to leave enough material to still retain the set screw(part # 3581 and 3582). This will allow them to go further onto the shafts to give more clearance.

Next I extended the flat spot on the transmission output shafts and axle input shafts. If this is not done then the set screw is limited by the shoulder, and the grinding in part 1 simply leaves an empty space between the gearbox housing and the yoke/cup

last thing was to gently grind down the inside of the losb3581 drive cups. If you look inside the cups you will see a sharp transition from the angled opening to the cylindrical bore. I used a small grinding wheel on the dremel to make this a more gradual transision, which gives more clearance and prevents a sharp edge from digging into the dogbone at full articulation.

[skkeeter]

Originally Posted by aconsola

I just installed LNC driveshafts on my comp crawler to try to get more clearance for bent delrin lower links.
As you found, there is some binding in the driveshafts due to the different geometry between the rigs, here is how I solved that:

Prior to doing the swap I already had external limiters in my shocks as part of a suspension setup copied from Delmonte (from about 2 months ago)

first I used a grinding wheel to grind down the back side of each of the cups and yokes about 1mm making sure to leave enough material to still retain the set screw(part # 3581 and 3582). This will allow them to go further onto the shafts to give more clearance.

Next I extended the flat spot on the transmission output shafts and axle input shafts. If this is not done then the set screw is limited by the shoulder, and the grinding in part 1 simply leaves an empty space between the gearbox housing and the yoke/cup

last thing was to gently grind down the inside of the losb3581 drive cups. If you look inside the cups you will see a sharp transition from the angled opening to the cylindrical bore. I used a small grinding wheel on the dremel to make this a more gradual transision, which gives more clearance and prevents a sharp edge from digging into the dogbone at full articulation.

Thanks for the tips!!!!