Proline Fautline beadlocks

[jstein87]

I had bought a set of these premounted with a set of Swamper XLs and would end up losing a bead before making it through a battery pack. Im running brushless on 3s, hill climbing and bashing. Do all beadlocks have this problem? I ended up going back to axial wheels and glue amd havent had a problem but im stripping hexes npw. Tossing around the idea of going to aluminum but Im worried they wont hold a bead like the last set.

[Natedog]

I've not heard of any problems with these wheels. Those are plastic beadlocks but pretty beefy, kinda pita but I'd unmount the tire/foam completely, clean all dirt and dust out, reassemble and be sure that the screws are all properly tightened. Once there is dirt down in the bead area any tire is more likely to slip out again until you clean them up.

[jstein87]

I bought the premounted set from Pro-Line so if they were mounted incorrectly it was done at the factory. I put them back on and there was no dirt in the bead rings. I would end up losing different beads one after another. For "crawling" I dont believe they would have had a problem holding the bead but it was under some extreme conditions/abuse that I would end up having issues.

[tjohanne]

Originally Posted by jstein87

I had bought a set of these premounted with a set of Swamper XLs and would end up losing a bead before making it through a battery pack. Im running brushless on 3s, hill climbing and bashing. Do all beadlocks have this problem? I ended up going back to axial wheels and glue amd havent had a problem but im stripping hexes npw. Tossing around the idea of going to aluminum but Im worried they wont hold a bead like the last set.

I also have this combination, and tires have been through a lot of abuse. Never had problems with them so far. Actually, it seems to me that this particular setup is one of the best out there.

(but I mounted them myself..)

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[jstein87]

Whats your driving style? When I was crawling it never thought about taking one off. Trying to jump it up a cliff, multiple cart wheels, big loose hills @ WOT expanding the tires when they come off the ground etc. Thats when the problems started. Also the hexes on these wheels are not near as deep as the axial plastic wheels. Plastic wheels with big power are bad enough about stripping hexs. My wheel wasn't nearly as engaged with the hex depth wise like it was on an axial wheel so I don't think it would have made it real long before it stripped. I have since gone back to axial wheels but I recently stripped a hex out of one so far so I'm considering switching to aluminum to cure dealing with that problem.


For example I have tried to climb cialis more than a handful of times. I have made it up to the bottom ledge a few times. And I have climbed out the top but haven't been able to bridge the gap over that lower ledge which requires you to jump over it. Pretty much have to back up about 20' at the bottom and pull the trigger. But it may just be my driving style that is making me lose beads and thats what I'm trying to figure out. Is our definition of abuse the same?

Very far right is cialis. The part with the smooth lower ledge. Left side is totally out of the question for being able to jump up it.

[rngrchad]

You should be able to absolutely f'n thrash on your rig without losing a bead. I do on 4s often and 6s on occasion. I don't lose beads running Swamper XL's, pitbulls or any other tire for that matter. Not sure how to tell you how to get your exsisting setup to work for you, but I am telling you with the right product losing beads is not a common thing whatoever. Even if you drive like a drunk madman like I do. I break axles, blow up hitec 7950's, bust links, link ends etc...but my tires don't lose beads. I'm running the SSD steelies on everything. Best wheels made but of course they discontinued them. Their new aluminum ones are really good too though.

[jstein87]

Originally Posted by rngrchad

You should be able to absolutely f'n thrash on your rig without losing a bead. I do on 4s often and 6s on occasion. I don't lose beads running Swamper XL's, pitbulls or any other tire for that matter. Not sure how to tell you how to get your exsisting setup to work for you, but I am telling you with the right product losing beads is not a common thing whatoever. Even if you drive like a drunk madman like I do. I break axles, blow up hitec 7950's, bust links, link ends etc...but my tires don't lose beads. I'm running the SSD steelies on everything. Best wheels made but of course they discontinued them. Their new aluminum ones are really good too though.

Perfect, I just wanted to make sure I could continue to drive like a tard and get a beadlock that worked. SSD makes some nice stuff I was looking at their wheels prior to going back to stock axials. I need to run the blue inserts on SSD wheels for prolines right?

The depth of the hex on the proline wheels I had was enough for me not to want to run that wheel. It was much shallower than my stock axials. Biggest issue with running a plastic wheel is stripping the hexs. Other than that problem they are perfect. If i was designing a wheel that is the last place I would have made shallow or removed material. Everything else about plastic wheels is perfect... cheap, don't show scratches, strong. If only they didn't strip from time to time.

[durok]

You can mod some plastic wheels by adding aluminum hubs to them, such as Vanquish SLW hubs. Unfortunately unless you go with fleabay copies, for the money you may as well go with a new wheelset altogether.

There's a long thread about converting Axial plastic wheels like this:

Drill press rim mod's with VP hubs

Gearhead RC makes some of the best plastic (Delrin, very tough acetal resin "engineering plastic") wheels in various designs, (some with aluminum rings, some all-Delrin) and the hubs are aluminum and available in various widths just like SLW hubs, added coolness is that you can run the provided width hubs on the other side of the wheel centers to widen your track width (not cheap, though!):



There's a new Vanquish (Incision, really - their "budget" line) plastic wheel that is reinforced and if you like the style, pretty nifty:

[jstein87]

Thats a good idea that I haven't thought of. Could run the axial trailready plastics wheels and then some aluminum hubs.

[rngrchad]

Originally Posted by jstein87

Perfect, I just wanted to make sure I could continue to drive like a tard and get a beadlock that worked. SSD makes some nice stuff I was looking at their wheels prior to going back to stock axials. I need to run the blue inserts on SSD wheels for prolines right?

The depth of the hex on the proline wheels I had was enough for me not to want to run that wheel. It was much shallower than my stock axials. Biggest issue with running a plastic wheel is stripping the hexs. Other than that problem they are perfect. If i was designing a wheel that is the last place I would have made shallow or removed material. Everything else about plastic wheels is perfect... cheap, don't show scratches, strong. If only they didn't strip from time to time.

I
couldn't remember so I checked and yes, I am running the blue rings for proline tires on my ssd' s with swamper Xl's. On my 2.2 pitbull I am running whatever comes with the wheels. Both hold exceptionally well. And like already mentioned if you want to dump money at your prolines you can get aluminum hubs but that money might be better spent towards new wheels.

[Slashrcgeo]

If I'm running Axial 1.9 and mounting to Vanquish beadlocks can I still use the dual stage foams from Proline ? Or will have to run the blue Proline internal rings as well?

[durok]

It's the beads of certain Proline tires, not the foams, that require the blue Proline internal rings.

[jstein87]

I ended up switching over to SSD beadlock wheels. What a difference over the proline wheel. Simple 5 bolts to tighten the bead. I cant pull the beads out by hand I so assume they are going to work real well.

[OSRC]

Though it's a little late, a thin regular rubber band in each of the bead recesses helps sandwich the tire tighter.

I had the same issue with PL 2.2 Titus wheels and a particular pair of tires. No idea why - never had an issue with other PL tires, but the rubber band worked great. Never came out again.

[jstein87]

Well if I ever go back to running those wheels I'll give that a try thats good info. Took the SSD wheels on their first trip today and they did great. No stripped hubs, no lost beads. Couldnt ask for more of the wheels. My rear ring and pinion wasn't to happy today but thats a story for a different day.

[angrchair]

I have the same exact issue with mine, every time I drive it, and this was only on my 2s pack, by the time I got to my 3s it was already coming apart.