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Thread: Narrowing Proline Beadlock 40 Series with fiberglass

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Old 07-14-2006, 04:30 AM   #1
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Default Narrowing Proline Beadlock 40 Series with fiberglass

I'm sure it has already done, but since I took some pics while we (me and a friend) were narrowing those rims
I thought it could be interesting for someone to write a "how to" thread.
We are talking about the narrow proline rims, but this is obviously doable to any rim.

You'll need the epoxy and the fiberglass tape. We choose a tape with the width the rims will have after the narrowing action.
In this case it's 4 cm (1,57") wide and 240 g/mt of weight.
You'll need a brush.
Consider that you'll trash the brush with the epoxy dryed, so don't us a good or expensive one.

You can find fiberglass tape and dedicated epoxy in various shops.
The one we used is tha same often used by Plane RC modelers.





These are a couple of rims already cut and glued togheter with 3/4 drops of CA.
That's only to keep the halves togheter while the fiberglass procedure.
Note that the rims have been sandpapered a bit to give the surface more "grip" for the fiberglass.
The thich white line is the junction line.



At this point you have to prepare the mix between the epoxy and the catalyzator. You don't need a TON of fluid.
To narrow 4 Proline Beadlock we used 10g of epoxy and 2,5g of catalyzator (more or less).
The proportion are written on the product you'll use. You'll have 100 min before the epoxy become too stiff to work with.



Prepare 4 strip of tape. One roll is enough. This tape weight 240 g/mt. you'll need more or less 25 cm (10") for each rim.
This means 60g of tape each rim.



Close up of the fiberglass.



Place the tape on the rim.



And start to brush the fluid on the tape. Don't be scared to touch this thing with your fingers.
You'll have plenty of time to wash your hand. That's not CA.
Remember you don't need a lot of fluid on the tape. You'll see the tape will become clear while you brush the epoxy on it.
If you use too much epoxy you'll increase the probability air bubbles could happen between the tape and the rims.
If the do just stretch more the tape and the epoxy with the brush.



Brush all the tape surface.



Note the transparency of the tape with the epoxy. The horizontal line you can see is in the mold of the rim.
The vertical lines are the sandpaper action lines. You'll almost can't see tha tape. Do that 4 times.



Go to bed and let your new narrowed rims rest while the epoxy dry.
A couple of rims completed. My beadlocks are now 5 cm (2") wide.



It's really easier than you could think. The harder part is to make good straight cuts in the rims.
Hope this could help someone ;)
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Old 07-14-2006, 06:44 AM   #2
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Nice work and "How to".
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Old 07-14-2006, 10:59 AM   #3
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I work with fiberglass, carbon fiber and kevlar... I just want to add something here... When placing the glass on and brushing, take a squeegie of sorts, be it flat rubber or even a piece of cardboard or a roller... Squeeze or roll the area as well to get ALL The air out.. Brushing alone isn't quite enuff... It may seem extraneous, but, just doing a squeeze with a squeegie or roller will add mondo to the strength of the glass and joint... There's things you can do to add more strength even, but I won't get into it that much unless someone asks...

Good idea, mate... I'll hafta try it should I decide to get gutsy and chop a set of rims... Just thought I'd add some glassing knowledge to the mix... I have thought about similar for bodies to keep them from folding and crushing under rolls and drops... Some ppl use drywall tape and shoegoo, I figgered glass'd be lighter and far stronger...
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Old 07-14-2006, 12:20 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rikpal
...catalyzator...
I think you mean catalyst, unless "catalyzator" is a certain brand I am unfamiliar with. Sounds like a robot dinosaur :?

But seriously, nice write-up. Good pics - it looks like those rims came out very well. One thing I have heard is to brush on a very light coating of the epoxy on the surface before you lay down the fabric. Then when you lay the fabric down, it will soak up from underneath and help the strip lay properly. Not too much, though, or else you'll have a ton that oozes out when you squeegee.
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Old 07-17-2006, 08:03 PM   #5
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are you reading a spanish newspaper ?
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Old 07-17-2006, 08:10 PM   #6
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good job and idea.
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Old 07-17-2006, 08:17 PM   #7
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you likr that dont you clodstall
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Old 07-17-2006, 08:20 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murdock
are you reading a spanish newspaper ?
dude he is not in the US. look at the mitsubishi in the pick, NOTE: euro plate on front.
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Old 07-17-2006, 08:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4stAir
dude he is not in the US. look at the mitsubishi in the pick, NOTE: euro plate on front.
Euro front plate on a model dont mean nothin, you can get models like that here in the US, duh.

But his location says Italy, which is a much better indicator of where he is from.
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Old 07-17-2006, 09:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtdriver
Euro front plate on a model dont mean nothin, you can get models like that here in the US, duh.

But his location says Italy, which is a much better indicator of where he is from.

sorry i must have missed the mitsu marketing campaign with euro front bumpers, here in the US..
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Old 07-18-2006, 03:32 AM   #11
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I'm reading an Italian newspaper cause there are plenty of them here ;)

My sig could be a hint also

That's explaining Why I did a bad translation of the italian word for "catalyst" and wrote "catalyzator" ;)
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Old 07-18-2006, 07:16 PM   #12
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It's all good - half the Americans here can't type in good English either :-P
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Old 03-14-2007, 12:26 AM   #13
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Great write up
that was a big process

I just bought Epoxy plastic welder glue for $4. and glued mine
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Old 03-15-2007, 03:10 PM   #14
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Oh, yea - those will NEVER come apart again.
Well written how-to...
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Old 03-15-2007, 03:30 PM   #15
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wow, nice write up, thanks!
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Old 03-15-2007, 05:23 PM   #16
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that almost how i did mine but i used automotive resin.and the woven glass mat

Last edited by '83 chevy; 03-15-2007 at 05:29 PM.
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