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Old 11-18-2010, 05:49 PM   #1
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Default Franken Crawler Build

This has been done b4 but I thought it would be interesting and fun. Its gonna be a forced articulation suspension with dig and winchdown suspension using max axles. Here is the bare chassis itself.

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Old 11-18-2010, 05:50 PM   #2
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Here it is a week or so later with most of the major tube work almost done for the chassis and forced articulation.

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Old 11-20-2010, 06:32 AM   #3
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Looks neat. Can you Explain to a newb what forced articulation is?
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Old 11-20-2010, 01:51 PM   #4
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If you do a google search on the Scorpion MKI or MKII you will see a 1:1 that has forced articulation. Mine will use the same principles. Im not sure if it crawls all that much better than a regular 4link setup. Its difficult getting it to work properly and not be overly complicated. But I wanted to try something different that I would probably never be able to do with my 1:1.
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Old 12-01-2010, 04:55 PM   #5
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Well I have been doing some searching on how to make it so my maxx crawler has an overdrive front diff. I found with a little work you can install a losi lst or muggy diff in maxx bulkheads pretty easy. The gearing in the losi diff is 3.3:1 compared to stock which is 2.85:1. So I will put the losi diff in the rear so I will have overdrive front. This along with dig should help it out a lot better. The diff cost me 10bucks. I coulda got an aluminum for a few more, but i think plastic will be fine.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
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Old 12-02-2010, 03:18 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White Stripe View Post
Well I have been doing some searching on how to make it so my maxx crawler has an overdrive front diff. I found with a little work you can install a losi lst or muggy diff in maxx bulkheads pretty easy. The gearing in the losi diff is 3.3:1 compared to stock which is 2.85:1. So I will put the losi diff in the rear so I will have overdrive front. This along with dig should help it out a lot better. The diff cost me 10bucks. I coulda got an aluminum for a few more, but i think plastic will be fine.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
sweet. Do you have to bush the bulkheads or ream them larger?
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Old 12-02-2010, 04:31 PM   #7
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Heres where I got the info:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9153
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Old 12-22-2010, 08:29 PM   #8
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Well I finally made some progress. The main chassis for the shocks is very strong tubing. Everything off of this is slightly weaker. For my body mounts I used brake line with washers. I will just use some savage body mounts to slide in. The brake line is weaker tube and will bend in a bad crash rather than bend the main chassis.

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Old 12-22-2010, 08:30 PM   #9
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Here is a pic of the chassis after its been cleaned up. Little different than my first pic thats for sure

[URL=http://img28.imageshack.us/i/pict0444x.jpg/][/URL
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Old 12-22-2010, 08:34 PM   #10
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I also put lower gearing in the rear for underdrive. The front is stock gearing. This was a bit of work but I am happy with the outcome. I also fabbed up the control arms and this dig unit. Now i just need to put the servos on, check measurements, and get everything working.

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Old 01-06-2011, 03:15 PM   #11
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Here is a pic of one of the completed body mounts.


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Old 01-06-2011, 03:17 PM   #12
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I got the links bolted up and the chassis painted. The underside plating is ok-couldve been a little better but I just got too tired to go any further.


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Old 01-06-2011, 03:18 PM   #13
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Here is the pic with the body on looks ok. I need to get a newer style body and different tires.


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Old 01-06-2011, 03:20 PM   #14
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Here is a pic with the body off. I still need to get the electronics working though and everything dialed in.

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Old 01-06-2011, 07:52 PM   #15
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looks good. Bet your buddie's axial based machine kills ya though
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Old 01-06-2011, 09:00 PM   #16
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Bring it!
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