New TH on the way, what to do first?

[Adam R]

New to RC cars, but have been lurking for a few days. I have a TH on the way and it looks like I need to do a few things to it before it gets played with. This will be a play toy and I don't intend to go overboard modifying it. I just want something the family can have some fun with.

Besides setting the shift servo end points, it looks like the tranny and diffs could also use some grease right out of the box.

Will any good quality wheel bearing grease work for these areas or is there a specific grease I should look for?

Is there anything else you would recommend I do before putting a battery pack through it?

Thanks,

Adam

[treys1]

I don't have a TH, but I use this grease for all my R/C gears:

Amazon.com: Super Lube Synthetic Grease with Syncolon Multi Purpose Lubricant 3 oz: Sports & Outdoors

It plays well wih plastics & other greases.

[Tgreer]

1.EPA on both servos
2.Make sure ALL the screws are secure
3.Grease trans, I used a little bit of red&tacky
4.If you have a futaba I would recommend using it, I adjusted the EPA on the servos with the spectrum tx and rx, but the next day when I used it, I had to adjust again, that got frustrating, so my 4pl was adjusted once and is good to go

Personal preference stuff
Front foams are too stiff, may want something softer
Tires sanded internally to soften them up
Front springs adjusted for a softer feel
Rear springs limited about 5/16
Spare tire moved forward and shortened the rear tailgate

[Big Mike]

Originally Posted by Adam R

New to RC cars, but have been lurking for a few days. I have a TH on the way and it looks like I need to do a few things to it before it gets played with. This will be a play toy and I don't intend to go overboard modifying it. I just want something the family can have some fun with.

Besides setting the shift servo end points, it looks like the tranny and diffs could also use some grease right out of the box.

Will any good quality wheel bearing grease work for these areas or is there a specific grease I should look for?

Is there anything else you would recommend I do before putting a battery pack through it?

Thanks,

Adam

I'm not sure I'd worry about the transmission. I read all the "dry trans" threads and they really got me thinking. I almost pulled my transmission apart just to see what I would find. Like some others, I felt that an un-greased set of gears was just "not right" (I did re-pack the front differential with heavy grease, and I can say it was NOT dry from the factory...)

But I kept running the TH, both on the ground and on a stand free-wheeling, and I kept thinking to myself "everything sure SOUNDS and FEELS buttery-smooth and happy, do I REALLY want to tear this thing apart??"...

Then I read a post from Rich Trujillo, about how the gears were designed to run dry. I quit worrying about it and just had fun driving it. Damn this thing is fun to drive once you learn that it requires a driving style unique unto itself...

[shwng1973]

Just drive it and fix what ever breaks later!

[SubyJeff]

reprogram the ESC to that instant forward/reverse mode or crawler mode

[Ceez]

Front shock mount, for sure. Stock one breaks very easily

[Adam R]

What exactly is involved with sanding the tires and what needs to be done with the front shock mount?

Also, what size nut and hex drivers are needed to disassemble this vehicle?

Thanks for the replies.

Adam

[Ceez]

The shock mount is plastic and breaks easily. You should get a metal one from blue monkey.

[Sheepdawg23wm]

Originally Posted by Adam R

What exactly is involved with sanding the tires and what needs to be done with the front shock mount?

Also, what size nut and hex drivers are needed to disassemble this vehicle?

Thanks for the replies.

Adam

If memory serves me, you need .05, 1.5, 2.0 and 2.5 hex drivers and 5.0, 5.5 and 7.0 nut drivers. If im wrong im sure it will be corrected in 3....2......1

[IAJTYWU]

Originally Posted by shwng1973

Just drive it and fix what ever breaks later!

Check the servos and run it.

After bashing around for a while I added "diff locking grease" to the front diff so I can crawl a little better. It just seems to do everything pretty well out of the box.

[benny_wiskas]

Originally Posted by IAJTYWU

Check the servos and run it.

After bashing around for a while I added "diff locking grease" to the front diff so I can crawl a little better. It just seems to do everything pretty well out of the box.

You talking about this stuff? How's it handle at high speed with that grease?

[Just2Much19]

Originally Posted by SubyJeff

reprogram the ESC to that instant forward/reverse mode or crawler mode

You can re-program the stock to do this? How?

[IAJTYWU]

Originally Posted by benny_wiskas

You talking about this stuff? How's it handle at high speed with that grease?

That's what I used. I didn't notice any difference at speed. It worked good for for about 2 packs, now it's like it's not there. I think it get's worn out/breaks down after some abuse. I can't decide if I want to repack the front diff with the grease or lock it.

[rockspider]

Originally Posted by Just2Much19

You can re-program the stock to do this? How?

Just download manuals from Vaterra website, it is explained there. It appears the printed manual that comes in the box is missing a page.

[Adam R]

Well, that was short lived fun. 10 minutes through the first battery pack we broke a steering servo. We had no hits that I would consider hard and we never got it out of first gear. The case is cracked right in the middle.

Should I just contact HH for a replacement or find a better aftermarket unit?

Adam

[benny_wiskas]

Originally Posted by IAJTYWU

That's what I used. I didn't notice any difference at speed. It worked good for for about 2 packs, now it's like it's not there. I think it get's worn out/breaks down after some abuse. I can't decide if I want to repack the front diff with the grease or lock it.

I was kinda thinking trying silly putty. It seems like it'd take a little shock load if something got bound up, but still "lock" the front.

[Soulo747]

Originally Posted by benny_wiskas

I was kinda thinking trying silly putty. It seems like it'd take a little shock load if something got bound up, but still "lock" the front.

Thats what i did.... you can control the amount of "lock" as well... in mine, i just loaded one side of the spider gears with putty... i assume youd get more resistance if you loaded both sides.

But it works pretty good... kind of like a mini detroit locker (ratcheting locker)... it acts as a fuse to prevent spitting out the dog bones as well.

GREATLY improves front end traction.

[Adam R]

Well, killed my sterring servo in the first 10 minutes of running it. The case is cracked. Should I buy on oem replacement or go with an aftermarket unit.

Adam