Boom Racing 12mm hex nuts fit all 4 axles?

[Ca. Off Roader]

Mine only fit on the front axles..

[89redranger]

Do you have an SCX10 axle or something in the rear? The front and rear axles stub shafts are identical from the bearing out on stock parts.

[Ca. Off Roader]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

Do you have an SCX10 axle or something in the rear? The front and rear axles stub shafts are identical from the bearing out on stock parts.

Nope the axles are all stock axles front and rear.

[89redranger]

Got pics of what you're working with?

[Ca. Off Roader]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

Got pics of what you're working with?

Well, in the process of taking the pics you requested, I figured out why..

Here's a pic of the front axle...


Here's a pic of the rear axle...


Notice the rear axle shaft is just slightly longer between the axle pin and the threaded section than the front shaft? Well, the 12mm hex nuts happen to have a shoulder that prevents it from slipping past the thick part of the axle so it never connects with the axle pin itself.

Only thing I can imagine is this change was made either to the hex nuts (added a shoulder) or the axles being just a tad longer in the rear for V2 TH RTR models.

[89redranger]

It looks like your CV is pushed in in the front, which allows the hex to seemingly fit. Hexes for a TH should have a 5mm bore clean through, without a stepdown or flange like Axial and others. The pin slot in most other hexes are also 2mm, whereas Vaterra chose to use 1/16" (0.0625") pins. If the pin slot is 2mm they are absolutely NOT for a Twin Hammers. Eventually the loose fit of a small pin in a large slot WILL lead to destruction. That is, if this is your problem. Measure the pin slot and check that front CVD as I mentioned. It will slip in and out because of the dog bone inner joint.

[Ca. Off Roader]

No, you're missing the problem. The distance from the threaded section of the axle to the pin is longer on the rear axles. Since the 12mm nuts have a lip, the longer rear axle won't allow the nut to slide far enough onto the axle which precpvents it from connecting with the pin.

You can see the issue clearly in the pics above.

[klampykixx]

Says to me based on redrangers post of true twin hammers hex's having no shoulder, that the hex would be allowed to slip right over the pin regardless of a step down shoulder.
Since the hexes u have seem to have this shoulder then you will need to drill them out to allow it to sit down far enough over the shaft to grab the pin.

That step down is so you aren't using the pin as the mounting surface for the hex but instead it's nice n strong on the shaft itself.

Hope this helps.

[klampykixx]

Just to add, my old rc4wd pin mounted wheels would never be tight because of that same step down being bigger in the rear and the nut would always bottom out before the hubs were tight. A small plastic washer ended up being the fix. But in this case that's not gonna work, just a bit of useless information for ya lol

[Ca. Off Roader]

Yea, I was thinking the same on drilling out the shoulder on the hex nuts.

Thanks!

[luminova11]

I'm using the Boom racing hexes and have drilled them through. I also drilled the drive shafts to take the larger pins. Been using them for a while now with no problems.

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[Old Kid]

I use HPI locking hexes which slip right on,no problem.