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05-01-2017, 06:09 PM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Earth
Posts: 437
| Proper Rear Trailing Arm Geometry
So, while I was swapping in a built SCX10 trans and SCX10 F9 Currie axle I decided I wanted proper rear trailing arm geometry. That being said, simple bolt on brackets were out of the question as I felt they'd weaken the stock chassis too much with the extra holes, fabbing up mounts that used the existing holes seemed too ungainly, using an SCX10 modified chassis with custom front plate for the IFS was making it too heavy and more expensive... Then I had my epiphany while going through my old Axial stock spare parts... I came across the stock AR60 axle link mounts and the idea to notch the TWH tub chassis and using a combo of epoxy and an automotive plastic repair kit along with a small bracket screwed in from the bottom of the chassis then into the back of each mount hit me. Below are the mock-up images on the old throwaway tub... final version will be just two ar60 axle link mounts coming through the bottom rear of the chassis just outside of the stock molded lower trailing arm area. The trailing arms will be attached to the bottom holes and upper links to the upper holes. Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk |
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05-27-2017, 02:50 PM | #2 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 538
| Re: Proper Rear Trailing Arm Geometry
I really like that green part for using the SCX10 gearbox. Where did you get it? Verstuurd vanaf mijn GEM-702L met Tapatalk |
05-28-2017, 07:28 AM | #3 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Earth
Posts: 437
| Re: Proper Rear Trailing Arm Geometry |
05-28-2017, 07:29 AM | #4 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 538
| Re: Proper Rear Trailing Arm Geometry
Thanks Verstuurd vanaf mijn GEM-702L met Tapatalk |
06-06-2017, 07:19 PM | #5 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Earth
Posts: 437
| Re: Proper Rear Trailing Arm Geometry
She is done, now for some test and tune... That Tekin Pro4HD 3000kv motor is gonna make her run like hell. She isn't meant to be pretty, more of a Mad Max build with parts from 5 different rigs, 4 of which are Axial rigs. So the setup is thus; Mirrored SCX10 metal geared trans 32p RR steel 56t spur 32p RR pinion Shapeways SCX10 trans Twin Hammers mount VP SCX10 F9 Currie rear axle Modified Yeti trailing arms Yeti 5" rear shocks 90mm front shocks SCX10 rear shock hoops on the front Twin Hammers front sway Hot Racing Bomber front sway on rear VP Wraith titanium upper links on rear VP knuckles and chubs Yeti MIP rear driveline RC4WD driveline from trans to front diff Helical cut front diff gears open diff with 120k wt. diff oil Castle Momba Pro ESC Tekin Pro4HD 3000kv motor Custom fuel cell Custom firewall CNC Custom 1.9 deep dish wheels with LURC rings and scale hardware Onetoomanyrcs front rock lights with Dragon Eyes covers Onetoomanyrcs rear KOH light bar RCTags custom license plates Custom exhaust stacks Wraith droop kit on front shock hoops Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk |
06-07-2017, 10:06 PM | #6 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Bay Area (RWC)
Posts: 536
| Re: Proper Rear Trailing Arm Geometry
Looks great.
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06-08-2017, 12:05 AM | #7 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Crawlerado
Posts: 1,411
| Re: Proper Rear Trailing Arm Geometry
So what was the issue with the stock trailing arm geometry?
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06-08-2017, 12:46 PM | #8 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Earth
Posts: 437
| Re: Proper Rear Trailing Arm Geometry Quote:
Best comparison I can give is to look at the Yeti, Rock Rey and Bomber rear suspension. Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk | |
06-10-2017, 03:11 PM | #9 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Crawlerado
Posts: 1,411
| Re: Proper Rear Trailing Arm Geometry Quote:
However, the shock angle you have now is pretty piss poor compared to stock. The best way to mount shocks with trailing arms is perpendicular to the link at full compression to get a decent rising leverage rate on the spring and dampening. | |
06-10-2017, 03:34 PM | #10 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Earth
Posts: 437
| Re: Proper Rear Trailing Arm Geometry Quote:
Furthermore look at any competitive 1:1 or U4 rc rig out there and none of their TA's mount in close to center-line for a reason. As far as shock angle goes I guess you missed the part where I needed to do a test n tune. The shock location on the arms is/was temporary until I could get it out and run it in its new configuration. I am endlessly amazed at the argumentative and know-it-all attitudes of others who like to chime in on a project they have not built nor operated, let alone recognize it as a first for the Twin Hammers. Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk | |
06-11-2017, 02:25 PM | #11 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Earth
Posts: 437
| Re: Proper Rear Trailing Arm Geometry
Did some testing today and will do some on the track later this week. So far the rear shocks in the furthest rear mount location on the trailing arms work the best. The weight distribution is damn near perfect on jumps. I may put in a stiffer rear swaybar however or sand down the outside lugs a bit on my rear tires. The Pro4HD 3000kv motor using a 56t 32p spur and 17t pinion are perfect. Lots of torque and more speed than any of the other 1.9 IFS rigs I'll be racing against. The front open diff with 120k diff oil is dead on as well. May give her a go at the next rick bounce event as well. Ended up bobbing the rear chassis as I did originally too. This little rig is one bad mamba jamba. Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk |
06-11-2017, 03:05 PM | #12 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Midlands
Posts: 317
| Re: Proper Rear Trailing Arm Geometry
Looks like a great piece of work. As i recently read - The wide spacing of the front of the lower links will raise the roll centre. Nice work. The spacing of the front of the upper links looks very close to the lower. Does this not make it 'jack up' under acceleration? |
06-11-2017, 06:14 PM | #13 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Earth
Posts: 437
| Re: Proper Rear Trailing Arm Geometry Quote:
Most likely I will build off of the new mounts using a plate on each side of each mount and space the upper link mount location up a bit higher... I'll probably use the measurements from the Yeti scaled down for this truck. On acceleration it lifts the front right tire and doesn't squat as much in the rear as it should due to the upper links mounting location so close to the trailing arms' mounting location. However, on jumps and rocks the rear soaks up the punishment. Trying to keep with the stock chassis and get this 100% is a test for sure. LOL Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk | |
06-12-2017, 05:13 PM | #14 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Earth
Posts: 437
| Re: Proper Rear Trailing Arm Geometry
FYI I am using a SCX10 tranny with SCX10 F9 rear currie running 38/13 diff gears which gives me a slight overdrive in the front which is perfect for U4 and hills. My 32p steel Robinson Racing spur and pinion combo with the Tekin Pro4HD 3000kv motor is 54t spur and 17t pinion. The torque on 3s is perfect and the speed is just right. Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk |
06-12-2017, 05:43 PM | #15 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Australia
Posts: 56
| Re: Proper Rear Trailing Arm Geometry
Nice work. Your rig looks great. I fitted Yeti rear trailing arms and links on mine for a while, but found with the longer wheel base the TH got way more hung up on rocks than compared to the stock length trailing arms, so put the stock arms back on. Have you found this also? Also I couldn't detect any improvement with regards to the handling with the Yeti trailing arms fitted, although my TH is wider since adding B5M front suspension arms and 14mm hex adaptors on the rear axle. Could be a different story with a stock width rig. Have you found any change with the handling on yours? |
06-12-2017, 05:53 PM | #16 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Earth
Posts: 437
| Re: Proper Rear Trailing Arm Geometry Quote:
High speed is better but, she is still short enough to turn well plus I have slight overdrive and open diff in the front. She doesn't hang up so far. Wait till my first race and I'll folllow up on that. I also have a Tbone racing front sub skid so I can hit hard and slide more so than before over the rocks. Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk | |
06-12-2017, 07:40 PM | #17 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Earth
Posts: 437
| Re: Proper Rear Trailing Arm Geometry
Just found some old 2 cf so I made the sandwich plates for the trailing arm mounts. These will allow me to mout the upper links a bit higher... took the measurements off the Yeti. Sealed the cf with ca... tomorrow bolt up and see if they work. Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk |
06-17-2017, 09:57 PM | #18 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Earth
Posts: 437
| Re: Proper Rear Trailing Arm Geometry
So the CF link mount plates are made and mounted. Hopefully I can test them a little tomorrow. Static testing looks promising... Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk |
06-26-2017, 07:25 PM | #19 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Earth
Posts: 437
| Re: Proper Rear Trailing Arm Geometry
So I have driven the rig around and really like its handling. I am not in love with the Vaterra front CV's. I would like to find an alternative but, I do not want to go and change the arms. Does or can anyone make a custom set? Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk |
06-26-2017, 09:22 PM | #20 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Orange County
Posts: 372
| Re: Proper Rear Trailing Arm Geometry Quote:
Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk | |
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