WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4709/...4f8fe666_c.jpg

I just started my newest budget build. For this one, I chose the WLToys 10428b. Last year when I was looking for a 2nd crawler for my son, this vehicle ended up losing out to the Gen7, which has proven to be a very capable vehicle for the money. Recently my daughter has been feeling left out of the action, so I needed to fix that problem! Rather than buy something that I'm already familiar with, I wanted something totally different, so the 10428b got the nod.

I picked it up from Gearbest for $130 thanks to the ever popular RC18OFF coupon code.
https://www.gearbest.com/catalog/pp_...?lkid=12975616

Recently the kids had a day off from school, and the weather was nice enough to be able to take the RCs on a local hiking trail to see how the 10428b did. Overall it was a lot of fun, but it definitely has its limitations as a trail/crawl rig, since it's really more aimed at being a higher speed basher or jack of all trades type of vehicle. Since our primary usage will be trailing and crawling, the upgrades will focus on improving those characteristics.

Since I like how Harley does his upgrades based on a weekly budget, I decided to follow that approach, but with some very different limitations. Rather than $50/week for a seemingly unlimited number of weeks, I've decided to restrict my budget to $20/week, and with a maximum amount spent at $250 including the price of the vehicle itself. This is a VERY restrictive budget, and will force some of the upgrades to be handled in a DIY/Macguyver type of way.

As I make each week's upgrades, I'll post them in this thread. Right now I've got the kickoff video posted, and will post the first upgrade video next week.

Here's the kickoff video:

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WNxv9yzk1BU" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

Looking forward to seeing what all you do! My build is also a sort of budget build so I may adapt some of your ideas to mine if that's okay.

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

sure! I'm not putting this out there as a show and tell, but in hopes that others can use some of what I come up with. Anything that I 3D print for the build will be put up on Thingiverse, plus anything that I fabricate will be shown in detail so it can be replicated.

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

I have that same truck and have had it for a while now. Things I have ran into especially when things wear out.

The differential bearings are 12mm I think the vaterra are 13. When I stripped the rear ring and pinion due to bearing failure, I remember the vaterra wouldn't fit it was to large. Vaterra ring and pinion fit fine once you find a bearing that fits the housing.

Vaterra rear axle shafts fit fine, the stocker lasted for about a year before I bent one. I have not replaced a plastic part on that truck.

My shocks still hold fluid like a champ, I did do the shapeways HD steering with lay down shocks which a I like though its pretty crowded in there.

I upgraded to the metal trans gears because they were on sale (didn't need them) but the metal clutch/slider didnt jive well the square transmission shaft and ended up leaving the plastic china one in there, works fine and shift smooth just a fyi.

still running the stock pot metal front ring and pinion with a silly putty diff.

the CVDs and drive cups wear quite quickly on the WL the chrome metal is much softer than the black steel vaterra stuff but they lasted a good bit.

The stock electronics are actually decent just funky 5 wire stuff my kid drove 5 2200 packs through that thing a day for about two weeks before I put proper electronics in it. Since then its had a castle 3800 mmx combo in it and other than breaking CVD pins (often) this things is a great value in RC

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

Thanks for the info! My plan right now is to keep this one brushed, so hopefully that'll slow down the wear a bit.

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

if it wasn't for the funky radio gear, I would have left mine brushed for a while. Is your radio a futaba knock off? Mine was almost a direct copy of a 4pk. I searched all over to see if anyone had did a firmware update to run a regular receiver on it without any luck. I actually put all the electronics on ebay and they sold for 36 bucks. Plus that little battery they send with the kit is a trooper, mine still balances fine and has who knows how many cycles on it.

Also if I remember correctly the shifter servo horn is 25t. I put a bluebird servo in and didn't have to change the horn.

something else I just though of, the grill is just hot glued in, it wont fall off because its screwed to the cage, but the lexan pulls out from behind it and tears. I found a new body on bangood but its like 35 bucks which is a 1/3 of what I paid for the truck lol so for now its zip tied up like Frankenstein.

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

Yeah, this one has the nice 3-channel Futaba clone radio. I've done a lot of research about compatible receivers, and it appears that there's only 1, and it's vaporware. There is, however, some code on Github for an Arduino that is made to work with this protocol. Once I replace the electronics in this vehicle, I'm going to try and get it to work, but since I won't have the time to fool with it within the constraints of this budget build, I'm going to be forced to replace the radio when I upgrade the electronics.

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

Frustrating that this company ripped off our design. :roll:

WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

It seems like there’s some sort of legal protocol that these Chinese companies follow. The THammers was not immediately copied. Nor was the LMcC, the Redcat Sumo, Axial Honcho, and numerous others.

Maybe 4-5 years from initial branded production release then it can be copied? Or is this coincidental?

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

I had always assumed that the design originated with the manufacturer (similar to how most of the ECX stuff is) and that Horizon's negiotated exclusivity period had expired, allowing the OEM to rebrand it, but Rich's comment seems to indicate that's not the case at all. :cry:

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

I thought if it wasn't patented then duplication was legal? But I think Jim's comments about allowing the reuse of molds in China after a number of client-manufacturer agreed-upon years also applies. Sucks if the manufacturer broke their agreement or the designs were stolen through espionage though. :(

BTW @Jumper: Hex pins (all pins, technically) can be replaced with hardened drill bits to make them last longer. ;)

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

I just can't believe that WLToys would go to such great lengths to copy the design down to the small mold details that you see all over the parts. Things like rod ends have exactly the same cosmetic details. Parts have the same mold lines, etc. When a company is going to build a cheap copy of something, they don't put that kind of effort into the tiny details. It seems way more likely that this vehicle is being made by the same OEM in the same molds. The unknown is why. Did Horizon's exclusivity run out, or did WLToys "steal" it? I don't know of any other spot-on clones that WLToys makes, so it still seems more likely to me that they were the OEM for the Twin Hammers.

Purely speculation on my part though.

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

mine keeps popping the actual pins in the CVD's I found some 1.7mm ones made by HPI that fit with a little work that last longer than the vaterra ones. I even used some drive pins from GUNNAR that worked significantly better than stock, but a my 12yr old shows that truck very little mercy and has the when in doubt throttle out mentality!

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

For Week one, I went cheap, and spent $2 on Silly Putty for the front diff. The Silly Putty seems to be holding firm in my 45 degree basement. We'll see how firm it is when it's 80 degrees outside, but so far I'm real happy with the improvement.

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZDIcKgPkR5U" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

Week 2 was another fairly cheap week so that I can bankroll some of the cash that I'm going to need for some of the later updates, but this week I was able to make two very noticeable improvements to the truck:

I lowered the gear ratio to give more low speed resolution, and I reworked the shocks to give this vehicle some much needed damping.

First the gearing. This turned into an adventure. My plan was to just replace the stock pinion with something smaller. My plans took a detour when I couldn't get the set screw out of the pinion, and ended up stripping it. In order to get the pinion off I had to remove the motor from the mount, and subsequently stripped the screw that holds the motor in place too. Yay cheap hardware!

Eventually I got that all sorted out and got to focus on the pinion. In the process I discovered that the WLToys truck uses Mod .6 gears instead of the 48p that the rest of the developed world uses. Fortunately I had an 87 tooth ECX spur gear hanging around waiting for a job, so I was able to use that along with my normal 48p pinions. I settled on a 24 tooth pinion for now, which gives me a ratio of about 3.6:1, which is a lot lower than the 2.8:1 that the original gearing had.

With that all put together, I focused on the shocks. The front and rear had so much stiction that the suspension didn't even want to compress. Once it got past the stiction, the lack of damping made it extremely bouncy. I opened up all 4 shocks and found that they had a very small amount of very thick, sticky oil in them. I cleaned them all out, lubed everything with green snot, and filled them with 40 weight. I tried it out and the front was horribly under damped, and the rear seemed to be very over damped. I ended up needing to go all the way up to 3,000wt diff oil in the front shocks to get them to work decently. In the back I went down to 30wt (the lightest I had around) and they were still way too stiff. I took them apart, and enlarged the holes in the pistons. Still too stiff. Enlarged them some more, and now they're working reasonably well. I think they could still be enlarged a bit more, but they're at least working pretty well now. I still have some minor stiction in the shocks, but it's nowhere near as bad as they were.

Since last week was a $2 week, I brought a balance of $18 over into this week. This week I spent $5 on the pinion, $4 on the spur, and figure $1 for the shock oil, bringing this week to $10. That means that I'm going to carry a $28 balance over to next week. My total investment in the truck so far is $142.

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZcpvHHb3ujk" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

Great update Jim, 8)
I had a similar problem with mine (10428B)
In the end i used a soldering iron to heat the set screw up enough to get it out,
They must use strong lock tight in china plus crap set screws
Mine too had set screws missing from the drive train :roll:

If your shocks leak try wrapping a bit of Teflon tape around the screw threads

I'm watching with interest :)
Ps: you can turn the lights out by pressing the back button on the remote,

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

I discovered the lights out thing completely by accident! I need to remember to hook the lights back up. I've had the body on and off so many times that I haven't bothered to reconnect them.

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

Lol it was my wife who found mine messing with the transmitter (i thought she busted it rofl) 😂

They will work on the other k949 too just need the right connector (i used the connector off a furibee f36 battery)

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

I've been thinking about getting one of these myself, after owning the TH five or six times I always end up getting rid of it because I throw too much into it. It's too small to compete with trail rigs, but it's not scale enough to compare with tamiya-sized scale trucks. Having the clone version makes it easier to buy in and modify by spending $150 vs. $400 for an RTR.

It can work both ways. The manufacturing company can have a design that they sell, either under their own brand or through exclusive contract with distributors, OR they can be contracted to produce a design that a distributor or brand brings to them. The catch is that if the client brings a design to the manufacturer in China, the only deterrent that the manufacturer has to keep from selling to other companies or territories is the contract itself.

So really, when it comes to importers bringing in clones to the US, it becomes an imperative to patent your product especially if you have contracted your manufacturing overseas. Then you can go after the companies selling that same design and stop them. When vaterra isn't doing something to stop the WL toys or feiyue clones, it tells me that they either didn't patent it, or aren't enforcing the patents they have.

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

Do these have plastic or metal diff gears? Lockers? Tranny gears? Are the tranny and diff outputs standard 5mm or something else? I'm assuming 12mm hexes for the wheels? Parts support available? Sorry for the legion of questions. LOLZ

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

It’s basically a VTH clone, the chassis and drivetrain. At least 95%, or more, of the parts interchange.

Not to be to dismal, but a used VTH can be had for the same price if you keep up with the classifieds here. I got one for $130 last year with a dx3e. But they’re getting very scarce.

One of the things that really appealed to me for this particular model was that it models a side-by-side instead of a full size vehicle, so it's more scale appropriate when used with my Gen7 and my Bomber. Sorta.

Used vehicles can always be had at a bargain, but because I'm doing this build for my youtube channel, I wanted to be able to use a vehicle that anybody can go get. Trying to duplicate a build that starts with a used vehicle isn't really practical.

As Brake Weight mentioned, this is 95% identical to (and compatible with) Twin Hammers parts.
Front & rear diff/locker parts are all metal. Transmission gears are plastic, but can be upgraded to metal if you manage to destroy the plastic parts. I didn't measure the tranny & diff outputs, but I believe they're standard 5mm stuff. Hexes are normal 12mm fare. Parts support is abundant since TH parts fit.

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

I have two genuine Twin Hammers and a WLToys knock off for my son.

Although these knock offs seem great value compared to a genuine Twin Hammers, I think longer term it's actually a bit of a false economy.

As a generalisation the overall quality isn't as good as the Vaterra product - from the plastic and plastic components, metal components and fittings, to the electronics.

The electronics and radio are great when they work, but ours went up in smoke after about 5 or 6 battery packs, which meant new controller, ECU, steering servo and a BL motor.

I found no amount of fiddling with the standard shocks could make them work, they leaked like sieves too, so they were replaced.

All the bearings in the diffs disintegrated after short use. As stated by someone else, the drive cups are soft and wear out super fast, as do the dog bones. I found the bead locks rubbish and the tyres would constantly pop out. The hex pins bend, the hex holes in the axles flog out and the hex nut themselves are as soft as butter. I could go on about what broke, bent, seized or was stripped after a short time, but the items were numerous.

For your interests, the knock off TH was running a 3000Kv 2 pole motor on 2S, while my genuine TH's were running 3500KV 4 pole motors on 3S. The genuine TH were driven harder and more frequently than the knock off, but I didn't experience the amount of problems and continual component failures that were had with the TH copy. This is not to say the genuine TH were faultless, stuff broke and wore out on these cars too, but there was no comparison in reliability and failure rate between the genuine and copy.

I'm might get flamed for this post and I'm sure my comments may not sit well with some, but I'm not against people buying copies and I understand that the initial price point is good and why it's attractive. But in my experience if I add up what it cost to replace all the parts and components that failed or just needed replacing after a short use, it would have been more cost effective just to buy a genuine second hand TH. Even buying genuine from new isn't so bad if you're chasing reliability and want a solid base platform to work from IMO.

Having owned both genuine and copy versions of the Twin hammers, I pass this info on in good faith, not to rubbish people for buying a copy.

Cheers.

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

You are not the only one to find the WL toys is a false economy.
When you factor in the the money, time, effort and disappointment involved every time you break your RC car, buying a cheap knockoff makes little sense.

There nothing wrong with going out and getting the WL toys - they are still great value for money, ond the body options are really cool. Don’t want to hijack a good thread, but the toughness and reliability if the TH format is one of its best points, and I see the WL toys damaging this reputation.

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

All valid points to consider. From my perspective, a $300 RTR vs a $130 RTR that had crap electronics was still a fairly easy choice, especially considering that I preferred the cosmetics of the latter. In my case, this will be a brushed, low speed vehicle, so the durability is less of a concern than it would be if it was a 3S brushless basher. $300 for the TH wasn't ever going to work for me because at that price point, there are a lot of other vehicles that I prefer.

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

Take into consideration every Axial ‘crawler’ comes with electronics that need to be swapped out for a consistent crawler. My Yeti still has stock electronics though. But some may say they’re junk, too. All a matter of perspective.

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

My kit wraith needed lockers, bevel gears, trans gears, servos, servo arms, tube frame parts, multiple link ends, wheels.... etc... rust to keep it running... all in the first few weeks. I wasn't impressed.
That is why I love the Twin Hammers, and why it is such great value for money.

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

That's the thing. Sure, I'm going to end up tossing all of the electronics except hopefully for the motor, but chances are I would have done that with a genuine TH too. It's why I bought the Bomber kit instead of the RTR. I knew I wouldn't keep that crap anyway, so why pay for it?

That said, so far I have no major complaints with the Clone Hammers electronics with the exception of the servo. The electronics aren't great, but they're perfectly adequate (minus the servo). The controller is actually quite nice, and it's a downright shame that I can't get a receiver for it so that I could keep it when I dump everything else.

I have a hail-mary option that I'm going to try on the servo right before I swap the electronics to see what I can do with it. ;)

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

Agree with your point, and my genuine TH's are hardly stock any more and have had plenty of upgrades. That's one of the great aspects of this hobby.

But I think the subtle difference is the forced need to upgrade versus wanting to upgrade at a pre-determined time down the track.

It's not uncommon for stock electronics on any vehicle to be eventually replaced and upgraded for better components, but being forced to upgrade and replace these items cause they went up in smoke on day 3 of ownership kinda sucks. And in the TH knock off with regards to electronics, it's not just the ECU that has to be replaced, its the controller, receiver and servo all in one go.

Apply that same logic to the shocks that leaked profusely or the bead locks that wouldn't hold the tyres in even at low speed running, and you're forced to address these items from day one of using it, not some more convenient time in the future.

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

Replacing all of the electronics at once does suck, but if you plan for it, it's not so bad. My build is using a $20/week budget, and all of my updates so far have been low cost specifically so that money can be banked. Plus, there are some very low budget electronics options available, and those are what I'm going to test and evaluate. Is the real cheap stuff for everybody? No. Is it good enough quality to be a solid option for some? I don’t know yet. That's why I test it.

My shocks are doing great so far. No leaks and with the right oil & piston holes, they work fairly well. Are they great shocks? No. Are they good shocks? Not really. Are they tolerable? Yup.

So far the beadlocks are holding up fine. I replaced the tires already (that's next week's video) and the thicker beads on the new tires seem to hold even better.

Not everybody has enough money to build the high dollar rigs. Some just prefer the challenge that cheaper parts offer. Whatever the reason, a lot of people are interested in finding high value, low priced stuff. That's what my channel caters to.

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

Yes, all fair points you make. I applaud you for giving it a go and what you're trying to offer via your channel.

I just often read on this forum people implying that the copies / clones are almost identical to the real deal. It's a broad statement, with some truth I suppose but at the same time can be misleading when pondering what being 'almost identical' really means...

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

Week 3 is up! This week I finally spent (almost) my full $20 budget. This week's upgrade was a new set of Austar AX-5020 tires.

The tire swap is pretty straightforward. The new foams are pretty soft, but for such a lightweight vehicle, I think they're ideal so I used them instead of transferring the stiffer foams in the original tires. The extra tire height is noticeable when driving, and so far the new tires seem to offer much better grip than the original tires. I'm looking forward to having a chance to drive outside as soon as the weather improves.

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/EUf6-QVByMs" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

Week 4 is posted! This time I didn't lay out much cash, but I spent a lot of time designing this week's upgrade. I got really sick of having to take a million screws on and off every time I wanted to get to the chassis to make changes, so I designed and printed a magnetic body mount for the rear of the vehicle that mounts to the shock tower, and has a corresponding mount on the cage above it. This makes it a piece of cake to hinge the body up and out of the way, and when it's shut, it holds strong! The magnets are 1/2" x 1/8" N48 neodymium magnets that I bought on eBay.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4788/...c12767a5_c.jpg10428b body mount by jim85iroc, on Flickr

You can see in the picture that the magnets are recessed into the tubes. This allows the magnets glued to the frame bar to sink in and prevents any lateral movement.

This upgrade will come in especially handy because one of my next upgrades is going to be to relocate the battery up front, which will require access every time I want to install or remove the battery.

Here's the video:
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ukx8tYVkOJ4" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

The STL files are on Thingiverse for those who would like to print them:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2815010

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

Well unfortunately, this is the first week since I started this project that I wasn't able to post a video. The upgrade that I'm currently working on is kicking my ass. I've actually been working on it for a few weeks, gone through over a half a roll of filament and have a stack of not-quite-right prototype parts.

It's almost there, and I should be able to have it done by this weekend coming up.

Here's a sneak peak of one of my not-quite-ready models:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4777/...1d4586b4_c.jpg

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

What is that glorious contraption?!?!

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

How far forward does that go?

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

It goes all the way to the front bumper/body mount that the body hinges forward from. This is why I did last week's magnetic body mount. You can't have a forward battery tray on an RC that's got a cage with 50 screws holding it down. :lmao:

Just your run of the mill front bumper support / body hinge / battery tray / vertical shock hoop support / bellcrank steering upgrade.

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

Nice!

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

Week 2 without a video, but at least the parts are done! Yesterday I decided to take advantage of the 60+ inches of snow we've gotten in the last 10 days and went snowmobiling instead of hiding in my basement shooting a video.

For all both people who care, I should have the video up in a couple days.

Re: WLToys Clone Hammers Budget Build
 

I'm 2 weeks late, but I finally have my next update!
This week's update adds a custom designed 3D printed front bulkhead that provides vertical shock mounting, bell crank steering and an adjustable front mount battery tray! This represents a major upgrade for the 10428 series of Twin Hammers style vehicles.

This new design replaces the laydown shocks with nearly vertical 90mm shocks for smoother suspension action, it replaces the sliding steering rack with a more conventional bell crank system that works smoother and provides more steering angle, and it moves the battery forward (and lower) for better weight bias & CoG when crawling.

The only parts you need in addition to the 3D printed bulkhead & accessories is a set of rear SCX10 shock hoops, a new servo horn, and some miscellaneous mounting hardware, so this upgrade will only set you back about $22.

The new design replaces the laydown shocks, the rocker arms, the shock links that connect the a-arms and the rockers, the bulkhead under the laydown shocks, and the steering rack underneath the bulkhead. In it's place, you mount the new bulkhead with the bellcranks mounted beneath. One of the shock links is reused to connect the bellcranks, and the other gives up its ball studs to replace the lower ball studs in the new shocks. A new servo arm is required because of spacing as well as a need for more throw out of the servo.

Here are a couple 3D renderings of the bulkhead:
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/821/4...fb02fc64_c.jpg10428 Battery Tray2 by jim85iroc, on Flickr

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/809/3...7a23db2f_c.jpg10428 Battery Tray by jim85iroc, on Flickr

Here's a view of the underside:
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/807/4...50946c09_c.jpg10428 Battery Tray5 by jim85iroc, on Flickr

And here's a view of the part with all of the accessories:
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/794/3...fa7f9d45_c.jpg10428 Battery Tray everything by jim85iroc, on Flickr
The piece in front is the battery stop plate that mounts to the bulkhead in one of 3 different positions depending on your battery length. The pieces in the lower right corner are the bulkheads. The long piece on the far side of the bulkhead is the shock tower support bar, and the two pieces in the upper corner are the shock spacers.

Here are some pics of it installed:
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/800/4...78a0fff4_c.jpgBattery tray by jim85iroc, on Flickr

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/820/4...d3f5882f_c.jpgBattery tray by jim85iroc, on Flickr

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/796/4...bd8b0cc7_c.jpgBattery tray by jim85iroc, on Flickr

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/818/4...cf89affd_c.jpgBattery tray by jim85iroc, on Flickr

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/797/2...99110285_c.jpgBattery tray by jim85iroc, on Flickr

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/810/4...725674cc_c.jpgBattery tray by jim85iroc, on Flickr

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/790/2...5cfda857_c.jpgBattery tray by jim85iroc, on Flickr

I'm really stoked at how this came out, and I can't wait for our snow to melt so I can get out there and run it!

This week we started with a balance of $45.
The total spent this week is $22, which leaves a balance of $43 from this week that can be carried over.

The Thingiverse files for the printed parts can be found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2839924

Additional parts used:
90mm shocks: $9 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Sh...72.m2749.l2649
Aluminum servo arm: $2 https://www.ebay.com/itm/25T-CNC-Alu...EAAOSwBoxaj3oJ
SCX10 AX80025 Rear Shock Hoops: $11.25 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Axial-Racin...72.m2749.l2649
Miscellaneous 3mm & 2.5mm screws

Here's the video for it:
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/oNOxIg8QwJM" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Make sure to check out the whole upgrade series:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...eEyjOK3WH96uJr