02-21-2010, 04:15 PM | #1 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Moses Lake
Posts: 110
| Creeper roll over?
I put the ckrc stage 2 kit on my creeper, mounted my battery on the front servo and when I get the thing articulated it seems to roll over way easier than when it was stock. Maybe it is my rookie driving or something else. Any thoughts would be greatly approciated!
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02-21-2010, 04:47 PM | #2 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Lunenburg
Posts: 349
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I notice the same thing with mine. Thought it rolled much easier after upgrades.
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02-21-2010, 05:04 PM | #3 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: I miss Rowdy
Posts: 2,238
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sounds pretty typical of the CKRC kits, they don't necessarily help your crawler react better, they are just aftermarket strengthening parts for the most part. Normally with that kit, you get A LOT more articulation. perhaps limiting your shocks to limit the articulation would be a good idea. more than 45-50* is too much IMO. Some people like to see their crawler articulate a bunch, but that is not always a good thing. controlled articulation is the key. The Kit may have raised your ground clearance too which may have an effect on your center of gravity.
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02-21-2010, 05:06 PM | #4 | |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: west monroe
Posts: 73
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02-22-2010, 08:53 AM | #5 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: I miss Rowdy
Posts: 2,238
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You need to 4 link the front and rear suspension and preload the rear shocks to help "Reduce" TT. Limiting articulation will help reduce tt during articulation too. | |
02-22-2010, 09:46 AM | #6 | |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: beaverfalls
Posts: 84
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02-22-2010, 09:49 AM | #7 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Moses Lake
Posts: 110
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I am not experiencing tt. I have that eliminated. It seems with the stage 2 setup when it get side hill or articulated up front the thing will roll over. I have weight in the front tires and my battery is mounted on the front axle.
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02-22-2010, 11:13 AM | #8 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Pacifica, CA.
Posts: 919
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Put stiffer springs on your shocks. I use Axials Medium up front and Hard in the rear and it performs great!
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02-22-2010, 12:35 PM | #9 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: west monroe
Posts: 73
| Main thing is get rid of the venom shocks and put some new ones on it and yes it does help the tt. Be cause you put on the 70mm uper links now when you put longer links on what happens ? It limits the travle and responds slower than the stock ones I don't have the ckrc I made my own based off of it a big part is the location placement of the shocks. My setup leaves them in stock location and I use losi arms to lower cg
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02-22-2010, 04:24 PM | #10 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Socal
Posts: 61
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I was just considering getting the stage 2 kit from KCRC but now that i read this i am thinking maybe not. You guys are saying that it is not worth getting it and that it doesnt help out with the tt?
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02-22-2010, 07:02 PM | #11 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Bettendorf
Posts: 116
| It worked on mine, but I also replaced the stock shocks with Traxxas Big Bore XXL because I had trouble with the venom shocks, and I put the Losi arms on it to make the shocks sit more vertical for better response. No more torque twist, but I think I may have lost some ground clearance. I am thinking about looking in to ways to raise the ground clearance, but I know when I do that it will also raise COG. Right now I am just happy to be rid of the TT.
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02-23-2010, 01:06 AM | #12 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: New Zealand
Posts: 183
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Doing a "stage II" mod by itself, whether you buy a kit or diy, will not necessarily solve TT problems. A Stage II is mainly about lowering CG There are many ways to reduce TT and some are fast fixes and some are longer but no more expensive. I played with the whole suspension geometry and now have a very cool setup that has near no TT. With a shafty there is always a bit of TT to live with and that occurs when I bind a tire well. Climbs and sidehills without solid binds are fine. Check my build thread for some ideas. I still have the original shocks but the front is in droop and the rear is sprung with hardware store springs. 90wt fluid all round. I will get round to better tires one day. |
02-23-2010, 07:59 PM | #13 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: joliet
Posts: 115
| is this to much |
02-23-2010, 08:13 PM | #14 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: north phoenix
Posts: 212
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if you can pass through the gate with no penalties or a roll over then you good buddy..... love the shocks what is that
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02-23-2010, 08:22 PM | #15 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: SSF
Posts: 63
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If you look at the instructions on CKRC's website. It says you have to remove the inner springs from your stock shocks and install 19mm spacers to limit travel of the shock. Creepers have WAY too much articulation. Try limiting the shocks travel. There you go.
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02-23-2010, 08:25 PM | #16 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: joliet
Posts: 115
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only the #1 brand in rc LOSI LCC shocks now have them limited 3/4 rear and 3/8 in the front i had almost 90 degrees now maybe 55-60 degrees (it sure looked kool for a while) LIQUIDKOOL THINKFORYOURSELF |
02-23-2010, 10:09 PM | #17 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: north phoenix
Posts: 212
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02-24-2010, 12:27 PM | #18 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Buffalo
Posts: 112
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Add a spacer to limit how far the shock can extend. Stock STGII is at 19mm try 21 or 22. |
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