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04-18-2011, 04:41 PM
| #1 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2009 Location: melbourne/palm bay
Posts: 203
|  "rolling" chassis
ive got my kit together and it doesn't really roll.....if i pull it all wheels turn, but there is a good bit of resistance......if i put it on my tahoe's windshield it will hold itself there, but the driveshafts are not hooked up...the front and rear axle seem to have the same amount of resistance.... were all of your kits like this before it was broke in? if not, any ideas what i can check? |
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04-18-2011, 06:00 PM
| #2 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Ringwood
Posts: 1,233
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so you do not have the shafts in what kind of geas did you use for the axles |
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04-18-2011, 07:51 PM
| #3 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2009 Location: melbourne/palm bay
Posts: 203
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i used the factory grease......hows your chassis comin along?
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04-18-2011, 08:55 PM
| #4 |
| RCC Addict  Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Colorado Springs, Co
Posts: 1,441
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Make sure you assembled the axles properly and try loosening the 4 center bolts one turn. If it's not correct or too tight, it won't role free.
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04-18-2011, 09:21 PM
| #5 | |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2010 Location: CRAWlORADO
Posts: 950
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04-18-2011, 09:39 PM
| #6 |
| Newbie Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Jonesboro
Posts: 33
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Did you build eveything stock, or have you used any of the HR aluminum parts?? I noticed after I upgraded with all of the HR parts I can actually overtighten my wheels and push the wheel hex hubs into the knuckles and the lockouts. You may just try and not tighten your wheels so much and see if that helps. If that helps then you may have to file or sand some of the material off of the back of the wheel hexes. Maybe that is not to confusing and just maybe it will work for ya.  |
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04-18-2011, 10:56 PM
| #7 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2009 Location: melbourne/palm bay
Posts: 203
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i do have HR rear lockouts,and CKRC knuckles, but it did it b4 i put the wheels and hexes on....just figured it needed breaking in... ill try and shave them down a bit....... i did jb weld the diffs, but they seemed to go back together fine.......should i take out the stock locker parts perhaps, since theyre useless now anyway?
Last edited by rybredd; 04-18-2011 at 10:58 PM. |
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04-19-2011, 06:08 AM
| #8 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Ringwood
Posts: 1,233
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it should spin freely maybe the ring and pinion have to tight a gear mesh try to take it apart and see if you can grab the diff and slide it back and forth if it can be moved then shimm the side were the red locked ring was supose to be to make it not as tight |
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04-19-2011, 10:32 PM
| #9 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2009 Location: melbourne/palm bay
Posts: 203
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04-20-2011, 04:30 PM
| #10 |
| Newbie Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Jonesboro
Posts: 33
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How is it rollin??? Anything working for ya yet????
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04-22-2011, 02:30 PM
| #11 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2009 Location: melbourne/palm bay
Posts: 203
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not any different......maybe its good......it does turn if i turn it, just not freely....guess im gonna go with it! haha...... breakin $h!ts what its all about anyway right!  ......thanks 4 checkin on me! |
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04-25-2011, 01:52 PM
| #12 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2009 Location: melbourne/palm bay
Posts: 203
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I did find something that helped a bit...... For all the "New Kit" builders the bolts holding the knuckles to the c-hub....ever so slightly rub on the new pin retainer rings, backed them out a tad, and it rolls better I have aftermarket knuckles, so it may not happen with stocks, but i figured i'd share |
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