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12-02-2009, 04:21 PM
| #1 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Sweden
Posts: 69
|  My Venom Creeper with various mods
I think it is about time I post my own thread about my Venom Creeper. Stock green kit purchased from Tower Hobbies and along with this came a Novak Rooster Crawler & 55T motor  So what have I done to this one? I removed lots of green anodizing with caustics (even bead locks are done by now) I flipped lower links I reversed tires to aid grip I added solder to add weight in wheels I now try BTA on front axle (must reinforce a bit) I raised rear linkages and BTA:ed them to prepare for rear steer as well (servo is on the shelf until I decide if my BTAmod is strong enough) I flipped shocks upside-down to lower CG I use TWO 2S LIPO's @ 900Mah on the upper links(not in this pic) I removed the skid plates I added CVD protection I secured the axles to stop from disengaging here is my youtube channel with a few clips http://www.youtube.com/user/mrkalaspuff Last edited by UndCon; 12-02-2009 at 04:33 PM. |
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12-02-2009, 04:36 PM
| #2 |
| Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Orange County
Posts: 39
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Looks great, thanks for sharing!  |
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12-02-2009, 04:38 PM
| #3 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: TXRCO
Posts: 210
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Man the all silver links looks good!! If ya do the shock parts and get the pic with the rings done, man that be cool.
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12-03-2009, 12:12 AM
| #4 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Sweden
Posts: 69
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You mean the green bits on this pic?  I will take care of those when I get my 50Wt oil that I ordered.  Caustic pipe cleaner in progress...warning . hot water, bubbles, might splash and cause stains and /or ruin clothes.  OHH - so nice after a few minutes... A crawling friend of mine is selling his old tires Proline Hammers M2 with memory foams (no rims) I would like to know if they are better than stock... Last edited by UndCon; 12-03-2009 at 12:15 AM. |
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12-03-2009, 09:17 AM
| #5 |
| Quarry Creeper  Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Posts: 251
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A friend went to the Hammers and he loves them, way better than the stockers. Nice looking truck, and great tip on removing the anodized color. Richard |
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12-03-2009, 09:35 AM
| #6 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Earth?
Posts: 1,698
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Great looking Creeper, and video. Is that your house in the first picture?lol I plan on getting a Creeper and would like to do the same thing to all the anodize parts. What is Caustic pipe cleaner? Is it Drain-O.
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12-03-2009, 12:59 PM
| #7 |
| Newbie Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Decatur
Posts: 43
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nice
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12-03-2009, 04:32 PM
| #8 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Greentown
Posts: 530
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any tires are an upgrade from the POS stockers.
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12-04-2009, 09:38 AM
| #9 |
| Newbie Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Toccoa
Posts: 31
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Thats a good looking creeper. I cant wait to get mine!  |
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12-04-2009, 01:33 PM
| #10 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Sweden
Posts: 69
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Thanks for all nice comments  It is the Castle where I live http://www.kalmarslott.kalmar.se/sit....aspx?id=19676 I assume Caustic pipe cleaners are similar to Drain-o or Crystal Drano as I found on wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drano Ill see if I can borrow the tires for a test run - and buy them If I like them... I'm going to add more weight to the tires anyway so If I unscrew the beadlocks I can replace the tires just as well and drill some venting holes in the rims here is another video shot by a friend of mine at the same location, but with an Axial instead http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Zk5JzNNRyU //UndCon |
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12-06-2009, 06:10 AM
| #11 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Sweden
Posts: 69
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I have some troubles with my BTA-mod - I feel it is kind of weak compared with default setup in front of axle(don't know if it is servo or setup) Here is my rig...  Overview from top - a threaded stainless rod acts as link  Here is the arc to clear shock...  How it is mounted on wheel upright...  From other side...  Rear end from top - prepared for BTA as well...a strong servo is waiting to be mounted as soon as I have BTA that works as I want it to... Is the M3 stainless rod not strong enough? Now that I know the length needed I can cut off an aluminium tube and slide it over the M3 rod and bend it to shape like this one...that would surely beef things up a bit... 60Wt oil is on the way - Ill swap on all shocks...and deanodize the last green bits. Next mod will be to test a few hammers to replace the stock rubbers.. And rear steer will be added - servo will be located on a sheet of aluminium... An upcoming mod would be a stage2 but I have not seen it along with BTA...(impossible?) so I suppose I have to come up with "stage 3" to make a new mount for the upper shock-mount instead...I can then get rid of the stock battery tray... //UndCon Last edited by UndCon; 12-06-2009 at 08:08 AM. |
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12-10-2009, 04:45 PM
| #12 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Sweden
Posts: 69
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...and then mayhem struck...  After some successful testing with BTA it is time to complete some mods that have been lurking in my brain for a while...  New upper shockmounts As I am running BTA it is impossible to mount the shocks as Stage II (on lower links and on frame) To clear the BTA-link to the servo I mounted the shocks (now de-anodized and 60Wt:ed) on the outside of the original mounting brackets. (if you look close you see it in previous picture) in order to get rid of the ridiculous battery tray/shock mount I add some alloy L-shaped profiles. (the L shape adds strength to the shock mounts) They mount in the stock upper holes and a bigger hole is drilled in the center to clear the screw that holds the lexan body in place. I intend to drill 1 hole every 10mm along the way up to the very edge of the alloy L's (I need to buy a center punch tomorrow to complete this task)  In this angle it is easier to see the bigger hole...  Parts start to find their way back in place Here you see my home-made 70mm upper links (made from a M3 threaded stainless rod and an alloy tube) (I use the same tube for all 6mm spacers and some supports on the L's) I also added heatshrink tubing to the VCD's when I as on the front axle - rear will be taken care of when I mount the servo Still to fabricate: A shelf to mount the rear servo 2 supports for L's Trays to mount 2 battery's on upper links if dampers are not in the way. Tray for receiver and micro servo ?? Tray or similar for ESC Last edited by UndCon; 12-10-2009 at 04:51 PM. |
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12-10-2009, 06:05 PM
| #13 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Plainfield, IL.
Posts: 1,297
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You should polish all the links and beadlock rings. |
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12-10-2009, 07:54 PM
| #14 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Riverside Commifornia
Posts: 73
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Suscribed! I wan't to see how the new shock mounts work out. I was thinking of doing the same thing, but I still know very little about 4link geometry. More research to do! |
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12-10-2009, 10:53 PM
| #15 | ||
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Sweden
Posts: 69
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12-11-2009, 02:58 AM
| #16 |
| Newbie Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Okinawa, Japan
Posts: 5
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I am intrested to see how this turns out. I am not sure what your plan is with the angled alum, but it looks intresting. I know that stage 2 will not work out for you with the BTA, but if you can find a way to remount the shocks, then you will be golden. If you are going to put time into polishing the parts, I would not do it on anything that is going to get scratched, just seems like a waste of time to me. Keep us all updated! |
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12-11-2009, 07:14 AM
| #17 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Sweden
Posts: 69
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This is the current idea   By drilling a few holes in the alloy I can try shock positions that work with the wider(at bottom) mounted suspension So far this seems to work...a few 6mm spacers allow me to fine-tune the angle of the suspension even further inwards. Minimum 1 6mm spacer is needed to create a distance from the alloy and the shock parts. If I use outer holes of the alloy the drive shaft becomes exposed to much... The reason I went for L-shaped alloy is added rigidity Last edited by UndCon; 12-11-2009 at 07:16 AM. |
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12-11-2009, 09:50 AM
| #18 |
| Newbie Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Upper Deerfield
Posts: 32
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It looks great I bought the kit and am turning it into a scaler. One piece of advice on yours, since you are not running the skid plates take a dremel and grind off the mounting nub on the diff case and grind off the bottom gussets. It's a quick easy mod that gives you more ground clearance. Just a thought |
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12-11-2009, 10:29 AM
| #19 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Vacaville
Posts: 259
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Looking good..... | |
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12-11-2009, 11:47 AM
| #20 | ||
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Sweden
Posts: 69
| Quote:
Quote:
 In this view you see it is kind of a prototype as the threaded M3 pokes out quite a bit on the left side. The alloy L's might be chopped off if the holes in front of the one I use is useless - but Ill save that until I get all things mounted as it will sink down even further in the travel... As is right now I can drill a new line of holes next to the existing one to add even more adjust-ability Anyway - I hope it turns out well as I think several ppl are using BTA and want to combine this with something like Stage II I was thinking of where to mount the ESC...a sheet of plexi or similar can be mounted with double sided tape on top of the L-profiles On this sheet I can mount RX and ESC on the bottom side to keep center of gravity as low as possible I used to have 2LIPO'S on the upper links - but I think I will move them to the steering servos instead(velcro on top) //UndCon | ||
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