dR. hOOK
Rock Stacker
What you can do is once every season you can dismantle the axles & tranny inspect & re lube all the gears. Another thing is just buy another tube of ceramic grease so you won't run out! 
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Axial transmissions for CR-01 building????
- Thread starter oxyjansen
- Start date
dR. hOOK
Rock Stacker
Just dab a chunk of grease on your finger & apply a light coating around the teeth of the gears but not too much or too little. & as for the bearings all you can do is coat them with grease so water or dirt doesn't get in & will last you quite a while. 
Is it possible to actaully pack the beagings with grease? I just got mine, but haven't had lots of time to mess with them, and we all know jubrication is the best way to maintain a bearing in homeostasis! (I know biology and bearings don't really go hand in hand, but it sounded good at the time!) LOL
dR. hOOK
Rock Stacker
I haven't tried it myself to be honest but I don't think it's a good idea to pack the bearings since it won't turn smoothly as you will gum up the bearings! The best idea is just to coat them with grease like I said but it depends on how your gonna use your rig. The tip that I told you is good if you do a lot of mudding & water crossing & if your gonna do that you might wanna apply sealant around the seams of your axle housings when your putting it together as it will keep most of the water out! "thumbsup"
Too bad the case is 2 piece, as an axle with a solid housing and seals would be about right.
Actually, considering the bearing come dry (correct?) how about a couple of drops of oil in them, then the grease around the outside, and sealing the case? I'm a former mechanic, so lubrication and sealing things was just a way of life.
Question: Since I'm building these rigs from parts, and not a kit, do I need to have an on/off swtich on the truck itself?
Freight
Actually, considering the bearing come dry (correct?) how about a couple of drops of oil in them, then the grease around the outside, and sealing the case? I'm a former mechanic, so lubrication and sealing things was just a way of life.
Question: Since I'm building these rigs from parts, and not a kit, do I need to have an on/off swtich on the truck itself?
Freight
dR. hOOK
Rock Stacker
Yeah that would be a good idea to just drop a little oil in them & then coat it with grease & of course you need a switch to turn on/off the electronics. Any type of esc that your gonna be running will come with a switch to turn the power on/off. My best bet is to get the Novak rooster combo because for the price it's a good deal if your gonna run a brushed system! "thumbsup"
Seems like alot of people are going the Tekin FXR route as well. Do you know the comparison between that and the Rooster? I'd prefer something both easy to deal with, and that will last
Oil, grease, and silicone it is! We'll be lubed up, and sealed tight! I really need to get some time to build this thing, as I have enough parts right now to get the axles all together.
Actually, regarding the tranny, I found some Hot Racing aluminum gear retainers for the planetary set up, and was thinking that was a good idea to cut down on wear issues??? They also make an aluminum bearing cup for inside the tranny as well, where Tamiya uses plastic. Not sure if the $27 to beef up the tranny a bit is worth it, but it sure can't hurt.
http://www.hot-racing.com/?partnumber=TCR220M&c=424
http://www.hot-racing.com/?partnumber=TCR18M06&c=424
I can get this stuff up the street from their main distributor without paying shipping!
Oil, grease, and silicone it is! We'll be lubed up, and sealed tight! I really need to get some time to build this thing, as I have enough parts right now to get the axles all together.
Actually, regarding the tranny, I found some Hot Racing aluminum gear retainers for the planetary set up, and was thinking that was a good idea to cut down on wear issues??? They also make an aluminum bearing cup for inside the tranny as well, where Tamiya uses plastic. Not sure if the $27 to beef up the tranny a bit is worth it, but it sure can't hurt.
http://www.hot-racing.com/?partnumber=TCR220M&c=424
http://www.hot-racing.com/?partnumber=TCR18M06&c=424
I can get this stuff up the street from their main distributor without paying shipping!
dR. hOOK
Rock Stacker
I am running the rooster in mine & I have had no issues with it. The rooster is designed ideally for a brushed motor, has a strong drag brake & has a built in BEC. The Tekin on the other hand I don't know much about all I know is it's smaller & ideal for comp rigs since it's smaller size can benefit on weight & space issues. But if you want to know more about it look it up in the electronics forum section because somebody did a review on the Tekin FXR. 
The Novak systems definitely appear popular, and from what I've been reading here seem well worth the $$!
Know anything about the differences between going without the cantilever system for the stock cR-01 shock set up, and bolting the shocks directly to the axles from the frame? Is there much of an articulation difference, or is there a good thread to read?
Know anything about the differences between going without the cantilever system for the stock cR-01 shock set up, and bolting the shocks directly to the axles from the frame? Is there much of an articulation difference, or is there a good thread to read?
