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How do I make a Pan Hard Bar

neillarson

RCC Addict
Gold Star Baby!
Joined
May 22, 2010
Messages
1,153
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The heart of the south
I have a RC4WD Timber Wolf that I converted to a frame mounted steer. Having some issues with the frame raising and dipping when cranked to the limits on each side.

Someone told me I needed a Pan hard bar and all I can find on a search is a bunch of people saying they installed one, but no picks and no real info. Of course after about 10 posts in the search of 4 or 5 pages each I gave up.

Anybody have any Pics of one or any details on how to make one. Actually, even an explanation of what they do would be cool
 
I'm playing with a panhard bar on my build, and I have been using War Pig's build for reference.

You might try these...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panhard_rod

http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/race_prep/suspension/panhard.htm

Keep in mind that when you add a panhard bar to the front, the bar and the steering rod need to run in the same plane, that is, they need to stay as parallel as possible throughout the suspension cycle. Otherwise you will get bumpsteer, which means that as the suspension compresses or extends, the wheels will turn a bit to the left or right.
 
normally panhard bars are in the rear, not the front. thats where a track bar is used. a bar like duuuuuude said that must be on the same plane as the steering shaft. a panhard bar helps keep the rear tires planted more better. a track bar will limit the suspension travel up front. this is my experience with it.
 
normally panhard bars are in the rear, not the front. thats where a track bar is used. a bar like duuuuuude said that must be on the same plane as the steering shaft. a panhard bar helps keep the rear tires planted more better. a track bar will limit the suspension travel up front. this is my experience with it.

You run a panhard to keep your axle located under you with a 3 link. Doesn't really matter what end although they are far more common in the front of our crawlers. If your suspension travel is being limited by your panhard it is installed incorrectly.

Here is a pic of one of mine. Like everyone else said keeping the panhard and draglink paralell is most important. There are many other factors that play a roll also. I find the longer you can make the panhard the smother your suspension will be and less susceptible to bump steer.
swaybar012.jpg
 
normally panhard bars are in the rear, not the front. thats where a track bar is used. a bar like duuuuuude said that must be on the same plane as the steering shaft. a panhard bar helps keep the rear tires planted more better. a track bar will limit the suspension travel up front. this is my experience with it.

A panhard bar and track bar are the same thing. It's best to have the panhard bar as level as possible at ride height, as long as possible, and at the same angle as the drag link like everyone else said. It shouldn't limit your suspension travel at all.

Here's a pic of my Bronco. As you can see, the bar is almost level. I do get a tiny amount of bump steer, but it is barely noticeable. I let Toyofast drive it today, and he said "now I know why you win all the comps...it's not your driving, it's the truck" not too sure how to take that :cry:. I did build and tune the truck, so I guess I have that......

P1120436.jpg
 
Don't want to hijack your thread, but I'm having to do this on the FJ40.

Since moving steering servo up between chassis rails, bumpsteer is a real pain, steering off in totally the wrong direction, when you don't want to.

Reading through various threads on it and looking at lots of pic's, think I just about how it all planned out now.

Q: I'm running Axial axles, the 2 holes in the top near the outer end of the axle housings ... are they suitable outer mounting points?
 
I made an axle truss/link mount for the upper link and the panhard bar.Notice it doen'st have 2 link mounts for uppers, just one. When running a Panhard(aka Trac Bar) you use a 3 link not a 4 link
abm.sized.jpg


Then I made a single mount for the frame. See it in raw steel next to the shock.
abo.sized.jpg


Remember you want your Panhard bar to be as close to the same length & angle as your drag link. The idea is without the second upper link it allows the axle to swing left to right. The panhard being the same length & angle as the drag link allows the axle to move in the same arch as the steering. Thus removing all bumpsteer(the issue you where having)
abq.sized.jpg


Walla, you are now running a 3 link front suspension with a panhard bar. I love it, looks great, works great!

Hope this helps
 
So I took a shot at this and it seems to help a lot. I was severly constrained on space but this is as close to parallel as I could get.

DSC_0229.jpg


But it seems to have helped.
 
Panhard bars are not just limited to 3-link suspensions, if you have a 4-link with no (or inadequate) triangulation you need to use one to keep your axle located. An OEM example of a 4-link w/panhard bar is the Kyosho 4Runner.
 
Lots of good info guys. The explanations are really well thought out and the pictures are very clear as to what needs to be done. It helps me out a lot. I am building a truggy with chassis mounted servo and looked for examples on here to find a setup I thought could possibly work and there it was a pic of what I had in mind.
THANKS!!! "thumbsup"
 
So I took a shot at this and it seems to help a lot. I was severly constrained on space but this is as close to parallel as I could get.

DSC_0229.jpg


But it seems to have helped.

Do you have any pics head on from the front with the wheels pointed straight? Looks like your track bar is pretty short, but it could just be the angle or the fact that it looks like your steering is turned in the pic.

And just remember... What everyone has said about track bars and drag links being the same length and same angle to reduce bumpsteer is correct. but remember to only focus on the actual mounting points, not necessarily the actual angle of the two rods.

For example, my rig has very little bumpsteer, but if you look at the links, they don't appear to be parallel. But this is because I used a variety of endlinks to get better clearance. The bumpsteer isn't perfect, but for a crawler it's just fine.
1029202285_qJwCf-L.jpg


And if you're curious what bumpsteer is and how it affects your rig, it's simple. Simply look down at your front tires from above as you raise/lower your truck through the suspension cycle. The less the steering changes, the less bumpsteer....and vice versa.
 
but remember to only focus on the actual mounting points, not necessarily the actual angle of the two rods.

That would be fine for bumpsteer, but they need to be as level as possible when the rig is at ride height. Of course thats not always possible, but the closer the better. "thumbsup"
 
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