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Cutting a motor commutator & motor tweaks

:shock:

Clean is power!

Brushes can change color yes, more so like a blue-ish tint, which I can kind of see there.

I was always told that the brushes changed color when the brush began to overheat. After the brushes were overheated, they were trashed, something about the lubricant getting burned off.
 
I have been sending some emails back and forth with John Holmes about my Puller 7T acting up... I've come to the conclusion that its my brushes.. they looked similar to the ones in the pictures... And the Com looked perfectly fine and barely needed any cutting..
The motor started acting up a day or two after I ran a 3s and 20 Tooth pinion for a full pack.. I didn't think i got the motor overly hot but that could be a very good explanation...

I also noticed when EeePee Filed down some brushes in an earlier picture that clean bare metal was visible.. when i filed mine it was that weird color the entire way through... Now i'm ordering new brushes lol
 
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ha ha ha well I tried to baby it... But when u got all that power and a TorqueMaster BR-XL... it's kinda hard to stay off the throttle...

I actually didn't even connect the dots to this being the problem until reading this last page or so.. I've been following this thread (its amazing) and am glad It helped me figure out my problems "thumbsup"
 
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Brushes change color as they get hot......if it wipes off, then they are ok....if it doesn't, they are toast.....that's the rule I always go by.

Later EddieO
 
Well, the theory on that is the way current flows in and out of the motor.....

Big Jim felt it went one way, but a lot of people argued with him on it........it got so bad on his forum, that it was outlawed to discuss it any further....

Big Jim maintained it came in the positive and out the negative (at least if memory serves correct).

I never got much into the arguement............which is odd for me, as I love to argue........

Later EddieO
 
I don't remember which was which......all I know is, all the science guys maintained it was one way and Big Jim (with a few supporters) maintained it was the other way.......it got pretty heated.

I didn't think it really mattered.....but they all felt it did.

Later EddieO
 
If you guys learn anything.......put these first.

Rebuild your motors more often
Don't use plugs on your motors.....hardwire them.
Quit putting $20 lathe motors in $1000+ crawlers.
Fat girls need love too

Later EddieO
 
If you guys learn anything.......put these first.

And clean is power!!!! :mrgreen:

I didn't think it really mattered.....but they all felt it did.

Yeah, no way would it matter. We all know what works, and you can't just flip it around 180 degrees and get the same result. The argument is pointless. A "The proof is in the pudding" really.
 
So to further my confusion I quote this off McMaster: "All are finished and ground. When used in a lathe, styles AR, BR, FR, GR, and ER are fed from right to left (as shown). Styles AL, BL, FL, GL, and EL are fed from left to right." With the use of the nice picture: http://www.mcmaster.com/#al-style-lathe-tool-bits/=9h9i4i

This would indicate the AL is the correct style??

On a side note, I got the lathe to cut pretty nice tonight, but I was running it on 3S, with the blade way high, rotated 90* clockwise and mounted at an angle.:lmao: Only prob is that it can't cut all the way to the windings, the backside of the bit will contact the tabs on the arm.

CIMG5961.jpg


The arm on the left is the one I previously posted the "mauled" pic of- note I can't cut the whole thing due to arm design/bit interference. The one on the right was a new attempt.

CIMG5960.jpg
 
Like I was saying! Now that's the way the bit should be mounted, however that one is a to the left bit, you need a to the right bit.

And do not continue to cut with the bit like that.
 
...but I was running it on 3S...

Your asking for an armature in the face at that voltage :roll:

WAY too fast. You're going to have to spend the money on a good bit ($100) to get a good finish on the comm. The comm you cut tonight looks horrible, worse than most I've seen cut with carbide bits.

And that bit you have looks to have the same shape as mine, but I cut right to left with a Hudy lathe. You shouldn't have the bit any higher than a few hundred thousandths above the armature center line.
 
My little lightbulb just went off...:idea:

Now it all makes sense. The whole "backwards" deal and all that. :oops:

Well back to McMaster I guess.
 
Your asking for an armature in the face at that voltage :roll:

WAY too fast. You're going to have to spend the money on a good bit ($100) to get a good finish on the comm. The comm you cut tonight looks horrible, worse than most I've seen cut with carbide bits.

And that bit you have looks to have the same shape as mine, but I cut right to left with a Hudy lathe. You shouldn't have the bit any higher than a few hundred thousandths above the armature center line.


I am running a 70t...I tried 2S and it still sucks. I don't know how you would run that on just a few V. How long should each pass take, a few min? $100 bits won't be happening, considering buying a new right hand bit will put me at the cost of a whole new lathe, for a lathe I don't own.:roll:

The whole cutting mechanism still seems sloppy to me, but I don't want to eff up more stuff by trying to take it apart and clean/adjust it
 
Carbide can cut JUST as good as a diamond on copper......at least for our little motor comms.

Read the posts I made, with the threads. You need an AR bit, not a AL......I don't care what mcmaster carr says, the AR is the bit from what I remember......AL is what the older ones used.


And bits are like $5 on Mcmastercarr.....


Later EddieO
 
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