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Hulksta's 'Monsta' MOA

I couldnt help myself and had to make something else:lmao:

This time i turned my attention the the rear and decided to do something with the weights, up untill now if i needed weight in the rear i taped a sinker to the bottom of the axle, it worked but i wanted to make it look cleaner so this is what ive come up with...
100_7547.jpg


I spun up an alloy plate to screw into the housing assembly, the weights screw to it, the weights can be doubled up end to end if needed...
100_7548.jpg


100_7549.jpg


100_7541.jpg


100_7544.jpg


Next i might look at knuckle weights...
 
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Thats pretty slick"thumbsup" I have been using lead strips taped under my lockout but would really like it to be more adjustable. Did you take a little length off the lockout to compensate for the thickness of your plate?
 
I was thinking of a weighted lockout or bass weight to go over the lockouts with it beeing thicker on the bottom but this is way better the weight is lower and out of the way plus more adjustable!
Very nice nice work!
 
Thats pretty slick"thumbsup" I have been using lead strips taped under my lockout but would really like it to be more adjustable. Did you take a little length off the lockout to compensate for the thickness of your plate?
You got it in one"thumbsup" just took .7mm off the lockout behind the plate then thicknessed the plate in the centre to .7mm.... that way the outter part of the lockout could still reach the inside of the lockout to keep it centred.. i would of like to of made it from delrin but dont have any sheet atm, might just paint these black later:ror: the reason i would like the delrin is to keep weight down as i only ever add weight when there is tricky downhill gates
 
I know someone that can help with the delrin part"thumbsup" You got a PM.
 
1/16" Delrin, 3/8" Brass and sized to fit into SLW's w/425 hub. Fully loaded would add 1.9oz (53.9g) per side and the plate alone weighs in at 1.4g. I am a little worried about the Delrin flexing and the weights contacting the wheel but there is only one way to find out...

This is a fantastic idea Dan."thumbsup"

losirearweightsystem.jpg
 
Looks great Rob, wish I could work a cad might have to learn it one day:mrgreen:
I thought about the delrin flexing too, I don't see it being a problem tho but yeah I guess we will see8)
 
I like it, seems to me that the boss claws just don't hook as much as either a rover or a sedona.

On a side note I really dig your build threads, thanks for taking the time.
 
I like it, seems to me that the boss claws just don't hook as much as either a rover or a sedona.

On a side note I really dig your build threads, thanks for taking the time.
Thanks for the kind words:mrgreen:

The boss claws are still newish, they seem to get better the more you use them, ive since cut them up and will bash on them a but im thinking of switching back to the sedonas for a little while and putting these on my shafty to see how they go, ive got a feeling they will suit the shafty better with more wheel speed and lighter weight:???:
 
Like usual man, your rig just is clean. I'm always impressed with the powerhouse that is the hulksta MOA.

I am always interested in the knuckleweights, i just can't justify the cost to wheel weight gained. It seems that i usually run a little heavier in the front than these allow.

Great work"thumbsup"
 
nice thread hulksta"thumbsup"

Like usual man, your rig just is clean. I'm always impressed with the powerhouse that is the hulksta MOA.

I am always interested in the knuckleweights, i just can't justify the cost to wheel weight gained. It seems that i usually run a little heavier in the front than these allow.

Great work"thumbsup"
Thanks guys:mrgreen:
 
Had my front diff lock up the other day, at first i wasnt sure if its was my new LE Brood motor or the worm but after pulling the motor and attempting to turn the worm by hand it was clear the worm was locked solid (glad it wasnt the Brood!)

Now this is the second time ive opened the diffs on this one (first time was to fit the grease port) and i shocked i never picked up on this before...
As you can see worm is stuffed
100_7625.jpg


Really stuffed.. im shocked my motors could turn them!
100_7629.jpg


This pic although blured tells the story.. note the odd wear on the right spool, its straight cut, ive been running (really well untill the state titles) with straight spool in the front
100_7630.jpg


Top case is good.. bottom is the one this spool was in..
100_7623.jpg


On another note, note the rear worm.. its worn and ready for the bin, its hard to show but in the groove the surface is starting to break up, now this rig has had no more use than my shafty ive owned/run for longer, so why are these worms wearing faster?? (im talking about the rear only, i know the front was stuffed from the day i got it) this leads me onto a test of greases ive been trying, in this rig ive been running what most seem to like the lucas red n tacky, and in my shafty ive been using black CV joint grease and the worms are like new (check pics of them in that build thread)

Anyway updates are coming in the next few weeks with new chassis and a coulpe of other tweaks:mrgreen:
 
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Had my front diff lock up the other day, at first i wasnt sure if its was my new LE Brood motor or the worm but after pulling the motor and attempting to turn the worm by hand it was clear the worm was locked solid (glad it wasnt the Brood!)

Now this is the second time ive opened the diffs on this one (first time was to fit the grease port) and i shocked i never picked up on this before...
As you can see worm is stuffed
100_7625.jpg


Really stuffed.. im shocked my motors could turn them!
100_7629.jpg


This pic although blured tells the story.. note the odd wear on the right spool, its straight cut, ive been running (really well untill the state titles) with straight spool in the front
100_7630.jpg


Top case is good.. bottom is the one this spool was in..
100_7623.jpg


On another note, note the rear worm.. its worn and ready for the bin, its hard to show but in the groove the surface is starting to break up, now this rig has had no more use than my shafty ive owned/run for longer, so why are these worms wearing faster?? (im talking about the rear only, i know the front was stuffed from the day i got it) this leads me onto a test of greases ive been trying, in this rig ive been running what most seem to like the lucas red n tacky, and in my shafty ive been using black CV joint grease and the worms are like new (check pics of them in that build thread)

Anyway updates are coming in the next few weeks with new chassis and a coulpe of other tweaks:mrgreen:

I think they had a bad batch of worms come out, i went through 5 of them over a period of 10 hours or so this past summer before i swapped over to dlux chromoly, but there is a bunch of people who have worms that never wore out or acted up. But it may be grease, i run red n tacky so thats possibly the problem...
 
That video was sick:"thumbsup" Now that's what I call crawlin'. Your build is very impressive to say the least. "thumbsup"
 
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