Thanks Eddie"thumbsup"
Yes that is some pretty GOOD stuff...actually everything Ska makes is GOOD:mrgreen:
http://www.skabrewing.com/main.html
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Cutting a motor commutator & motor tweaks
- Thread starter EeePee
- Start date
Thanks Eddie"thumbsup"
Yes that is some pretty GOOD stuff...actually everything Ska makes is GOOD:mrgreen:
http://www.skabrewing.com/main.html
marvinbeaverdip
Pebble Pounder
glad to see I'm not the only one admitting to an addiction to RCtech! I even browse the ads on my ipod when I'm on the toilet! I've picked up about 8 cars over the past half year there, including my crawler.
I picked up a cobra lathe about a month ago because of this thread, and started collecting motors too on the cheap. I even inquired about a few that you've picked up, but decided to pass on all the stock motors. I've picked up 5 checkpoint motors soo far, each for less than $5 each. Killswitch gave me a list of desireable motors to pick up, it's somewhere in my files. All good if you're thinking about using them to build crawler motors. I'm going to get a brood or holmes 45t arm to try next, but I'd also like to try winding my own just for shits.
Good luck!
Wow...you're doing better than me I only picked up 4-5 cars in the past year:shock::lmao: I would LOVE to get that list you have from Killswitch as to which motors would be good crawler fodder. "thumbsup"
EddieO
I wanna be Dave
I can give ya the list off the top of my head...
Checkpoint (Aluminum or Plastic Endbell)
Orion V2
Reedy Kr, TI, PT, Ti Worlds
Trinity D4, D5, D6, Cobalt, Cobalt 2, Shock
Really though, any modified from 94 or so up would make a good crawler motor if its from any of the big companies (Reedy, Trinity, Orion, Peak, Checkpoint, etc)....they all had good magnets and good construction.
I am gonna have some arms up on the site here shortly for you wind at home guys......gonna be a 3mm web, so its very easy to wind with a decent size wire....
Later EddieO
Checkpoint (Aluminum or Plastic Endbell)
Orion V2
Reedy Kr, TI, PT, Ti Worlds
Trinity D4, D5, D6, Cobalt, Cobalt 2, Shock
Really though, any modified from 94 or so up would make a good crawler motor if its from any of the big companies (Reedy, Trinity, Orion, Peak, Checkpoint, etc)....they all had good magnets and good construction.
I am gonna have some arms up on the site here shortly for you wind at home guys......gonna be a 3mm web, so its very easy to wind with a decent size wire....
Later EddieO
Norris
Quarry Creeper
Does anyone know a part number for carbide cutting tool for the Integy's Xipp lathe.
I have looked here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#lathe-bits/=b3bv2b
but not sure on which one?
Help!
I have looked here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#lathe-bits/=b3bv2b
but not sure on which one?
Help!
I would suggest HSS blanks instead. Any 1/4" bit works if you can cut it short and make the cutting face properly. Do you have a grinder?
killswitch
RCC Addict
What he said on the motors... Be warned on the V2s though, Ive never been able to buid one with anything close to a "crawler worthy" drag break. They do work well for apps that need some RPM though. Ive had good luck with some of the top based stuff that isnt V2 as well.
Norris
Quarry Creeper
HHS blanks, where are those available? Grinder, yes.
You can get them about anywhere really. same page you linked, the square blanks. You will need to learn how to grind your own tools, but in the long run it will save you hundreds of $$. Copper needs about 5 degrees of positive rake. Hopefully this link works http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=383-5316&PMPXNO=939967&PARTPG=INLMK32
$1.10 each, and if you cut them in half to fit the lathe easily you can literally have years of tooling for $20. HSS cuts copper better than carbide too.
Search google for 'copper rake angle', and 'lathe bit grinding' to get started. Grinding my own bits was the first thing I learned to do when I got a lathe. Great primer on it-- http://www.sherline.com/grinding.htm
$1.10 each, and if you cut them in half to fit the lathe easily you can literally have years of tooling for $20. HSS cuts copper better than carbide too.
Search google for 'copper rake angle', and 'lathe bit grinding' to get started. Grinding my own bits was the first thing I learned to do when I got a lathe. Great primer on it-- http://www.sherline.com/grinding.htm
Norris
Quarry Creeper
Thanks John, I will give it a try.
marvinbeaverdip
Pebble Pounder
I thought this group might enjoy this picture. This is one of the checkpoints I picked up in the last month. The others have all been in pretty good shape, and the comms all actually look pretty good. I bought this one from a guy who also sold me his lathe. So what's wrong with this picture? 
notice the springs. This is the way it came, although it was assembled. I have a feeling this is why he was having lots of trouble with the motor, and the reason the comm looks soo bad. Actually, the whole assembly was full of oil or grease. The picture doesn't really show how bad the comm was. It looks like it has baked on crud on it, and someone obviously attempted to cut the comm at some point, but it almost has a serrated finish. When I finally got it all back together after this I had two washers leftover from what I took OFF the arm. I put them all back on and couldn't even fit the endbell on. Kinda glad I didn't buy more from him.
notice the springs. This is the way it came, although it was assembled. I have a feeling this is why he was having lots of trouble with the motor, and the reason the comm looks soo bad. Actually, the whole assembly was full of oil or grease. The picture doesn't really show how bad the comm was. It looks like it has baked on crud on it, and someone obviously attempted to cut the comm at some point, but it almost has a serrated finish. When I finally got it all back together after this I had two washers leftover from what I took OFF the arm. I put them all back on and couldn't even fit the endbell on. Kinda glad I didn't buy more from him.
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killswitch
RCC Addict
I really like how either the motor wasnt shimmed correctly and the pinion was slamming into the can... or the pinion was set too close to the can and allowed to drag on it. Either way, both are a fast way to ruin a nice set of magnets from un-needed heat.
Charlie-III
I wanna be Dave
"One man's trash is another man's treasure.""thumbsup""thumbsup"
marvinbeaverdip
Pebble Pounder
I see both Eddie and Killswitch have chimed in already. That's the list, although I don't know what kind of can a speedgems is (what series of trinity can), I built a 35t HH arm with one and it works great as far as I'm concerned.
JDeezie82
Quarry Creeper
I've got an Integy 45t that just choked out on me and it's only a month old. Want some practice? Think you can help?
marvinbeaverdip
Pebble Pounder
Everything still seems to be strong in it though, and worked fine after I put it back together (correctly). I sure hope the motors I sold you didn't look that bad. To be honest, I got them in a lot of parts when I bought a ZX-5, and never used them at all. Incidentally, I just picked up another rig tonight. An LCC that came with a goat 3s system.. I still want to stick with brushed though, I think. I may be selling some parts soon (to fund buying more parts)
killswitch
RCC Addict
Nope, they run just fine. They got zapped as soon as they were torn apart anyway so it wasnt a big deal if they had been abused some... I did smoke a set of bearings in one of them, but thats because I was deep in some nasty mud on 3 cells with a 35t arm.
marvinbeaverdip
Pebble Pounder
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/484286-comm-lathe-motor-tools-sale-trade.html
for those that might be looking for a lathe and brush cutters.. No, I don't know that guy selling.
for those that might be looking for a lathe and brush cutters.. No, I don't know that guy selling.
First, still an awesome thread. Probably one of the best on RCC. Thanks to everyone who has put forth the info. "thumbsup"
Second, there should be a warning on the very first post stating "do not attempt any modifications or tuning methods until you have read through the whole thread".
I decided to rebuild/rewind some motors I had laying around last night, so I thought it'd be a good idea to re-read this thread. Yes, I started at page 1 and read all the way through to this one. Problem was, I'd step out to the garage for a smoke, dink with a motor using some of my newly acquired knowledge only to come back in and find out I don't need to/shouldn't do what I just did. :ror:
Third, someone should really come up with a condensed version of this thread. There's a lot of great important tuning info that is spread far and wide.
But now down to business...
In the past everything I've wound have been 35t or higher...not a lot of rpms going on so balancing was not terribly crucial IMO. Obviously if one was way out I'd pull it and go with something else, but for the most part, everything has been hunky dory.
Now I've rewound one to a 27t for my Bronco. Its going to see some heavy and unapologetic abuse so I'm obviously not going for high quality, but balance has come back into play. There is a vibration that only comes on approach to the peak rpm's, and I can't seem to find a way to statically balance it properly, meaning I can't find the heavy side. Any ideas?
Also, what is a good readily available epoxy to use on the winds? I've just been keeping my winds tight and clean and hoping for the best.
Second, there should be a warning on the very first post stating "do not attempt any modifications or tuning methods until you have read through the whole thread".
I decided to rebuild/rewind some motors I had laying around last night, so I thought it'd be a good idea to re-read this thread. Yes, I started at page 1 and read all the way through to this one. Problem was, I'd step out to the garage for a smoke, dink with a motor using some of my newly acquired knowledge only to come back in and find out I don't need to/shouldn't do what I just did. :ror:
Third, someone should really come up with a condensed version of this thread. There's a lot of great important tuning info that is spread far and wide.
But now down to business...
In the past everything I've wound have been 35t or higher...not a lot of rpms going on so balancing was not terribly crucial IMO. Obviously if one was way out I'd pull it and go with something else, but for the most part, everything has been hunky dory.
Now I've rewound one to a 27t for my Bronco. Its going to see some heavy and unapologetic abuse so I'm obviously not going for high quality, but balance has come back into play. There is a vibration that only comes on approach to the peak rpm's, and I can't seem to find a way to statically balance it properly, meaning I can't find the heavy side. Any ideas?
Also, what is a good readily available epoxy to use on the winds? I've just been keeping my winds tight and clean and hoping for the best.
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Charlie-III
I wanna be Dave
Two methods for static balancing are:
2 level parallel sharp edges (I've used utility knife blades before:shock
, put the arm shafts on the blades and give it a push. See if it has a heavy side.Or,
A magnetic "prop blade balancer", like this.... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=prop+balancer (top of the page, although there are some nice alternatives to utility knife blades as well)."thumbsup""thumbsup"
The magnetic is nice since you don't have to worry about the pinion shaft flat:lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao:
You need to really watch it a few times as it settles to find it's heavy side. Experiance will guide you on how much to remove based on how fast it settles. Sorta hit or miss though.
