RidgeBack TMC Build

[Paul4x4]

All I can tell you is what I can observer... beyond that I'm no engineer.

It appears as if it has something to do with the bend pulling the stubs towards the chassis. So there is a rotate motion taking place because of the bend. With straight links there is no where near the amount of rotate motion. When you watch it, you see the tilt take place with bent links, with straight links you see the push... that's really the best I can describe it.

All I can say is give it a shot. Unless someone else knows a more technical explanation, or perhaps a better way to describe it...

Who knows what would happen if you make a set of S-shaped links... :lmao:

Sorry, I couldn't resist!

But seriously, I can't understand your theory either. If the link length is same between straight and bent ones, it will always perform the same way. In order to achieve same wheelbase throughout the suspension cycle, you would need some telescopic length changing links, and there is no such thing...

But if you somehow think bent links are the best for your rig, then you should go for it! No need to argue about that really. "thumbsup"

 

[Evilinside]

Who knows what would happen if you make a set of S-shaped links... :lmao:

Sorry, I couldn't resist!

But seriously, I can't understand your theory either. If the link length is same between straight and bent ones, it will always perform the same way. In order to achieve same wheelbase throughout the suspension cycle, you would need some telescopic length changing links, and there is no such thing...

But if you somehow think bent links are the best for your rig, then you should go for it! No need to argue about that really. "thumbsup"

Well, what I'm trying to point out is it is not a theory. The fact is, I don't know the theory behind it. All I am doing is explaining what happens. Give it a shot and be baffled I guess... :lmao:

 

[Evilinside]

I'll post pictures when I get home. I'll put on straight links, show the result, then bent links and show the result....

then I'll let someone smarter than I figure out why it works...

"thumbsup"

 

[humanmachinehead]

from a side view, a 4 link will ALWAYS travel in an arc, and the wheelbase with change along with that. Longer links will make the arc bigger, thus causing less change through out travel, so short links with cause the opposite effect aswell. The shape of the links wont have anything to do with how it moves, if they are straight, bent, or even S'ed as mentioned. The pivots points are what matters, so anything in between the pivots will travel the same, its just being bent will give clearance for things, whether its rocks below, or the chassis at full stuff. Hope this helps"thumbsup"

BTW did i mention i build 1:1 rock crawlers? lol:mrgreen:

Hoping for one of these chassis soon

 

[Evilinside]

In order to achieve same wheelbase throughout the suspension cycle, you would need some telescopic length changing links, and there is no such thing...

No such thing as telescoping links eh... I beg to differ; "thumbsup"

To achieve same wheelbase throughout suspension cycle needs something special eh... I beg to differ; "thumbsup"

Again, I'm no engineer, even an engineer cannot explain to me why the combustion heat that takes place inside an engine is hotter than the temp required to melt the surrounding metal but the surrounding metal does not melt... so I'm not expecting to be able to explain away anything... it just works. Losi engineers apparently know something we don't, or why would they go through the trouble of using them...?

 

[bouncingbabyboy]

The ratio of length of the links as well as the position of the pivots are major factors as well. There are a lot of variables. Losi did a good job with the trekker.

 

[Evilinside]

My next item has arrived:

 

[Midlife Crisis]

I'd be willing to bet the u-joints wouldn't hold up to a 90t and Miclaws with those shock links. Heck, I bust them with fixed links without the 90t. It's way cool your frankensteining and playing with different setups."thumbsup"

 

[Evilinside]

I'd be willing to bet the u-joints wouldn't hold up to a 90t and Miclaws with those shock links. Heck, I bust them with fixed links without the 90t. It's way cool your frankensteining and playing with different setups."thumbsup"

Yeah I hear ya. That's my Blade TMC though, not this RidgeBack. That one probably won't see a motor upgrade. I've been debating it because it is more my experimental crawler more than anything, the RidgeBack is the one I'm going to be actually crawling with.

I've actually been tossing around the idea of selling the Blade TMC...

 

[Evilinside]

I just got in the links from the Mini QLO... yeah, not sure what type of ball stubs the Mini QLO uses but they must be bigger than the ones used on the Losi micro crawlers.

 

[Evilinside]

Meaning the mini qlo links will not work.

 

[stroker613]

Meaning the mini qlo links will not work.

They will work... pm eggoz crawlerz and he will show you the link to his thread or he may tell you.... but i assure you they can be made to work
They look good and function even better

 

[EGG]

you must use different ball ends as the ones for the miniqlo are for bolt on ball ends not snap on ball ends.

i used longer rc18 ball cups, and drilled them out to be able to fit the 3m studs.

any 2.5mm ball end will work though.

 

[willy1106]

Just use different ball ends. i used RC18 on the Qlo Links on my project and they worked just fine

 

[wheatyman]

Nice build so far its looking good, i just wondered how you were getting on with the tekin esc, i was thinking of getting one, is it worth the money?

 

[Evilinside]

Nice build so far its looking good, i just wondered how you were getting on with the tekin esc, i was thinking of getting one, is it worth the money?

I don't know yet. The link issue set me back several weeks. Waiting for the order, than discovering they don't fit, than finding out I need rc18 stubs.

Now that I know, I will be trying to find the rc18 things and get back on track.

 

[Evilinside]

you must use different ball ends as the ones for the miniqlo are for bolt on ball ends not snap on ball ends.

i used longer rc18 ball cups, and drilled them out to be able to fit the 3m studs.

any 2.5mm ball end will work though.

I'm not totally certain I understand what you mean about the RC18 Ball Cups and drilling them out.

You mean these Ball Cups? Than what do you mean about drilling them out?

 

[Evilinside]

Anyone on answering the previous post?

 

[BerticusPryme]

they were talking about drilling through the cup so they will have a hole on the side so you dont have to remove the up end to get to the ball. kinda like on the stock links ow the hole it the cup end shows the ball.

 

[Evilinside]

This project has become a nightmare due to the links...

Then to add, the HR shocks are terrible quality, only one out of the four don't bind internal on the metal bushing when compressed.