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GT3B Hack Question and Answer Thread

Okay problem solved. There were 2 problems occurring. I guess that I screwed up the calibration for the steering ch and I had gotten the steering speed turned way down. I recalibrated it and turned the speed up to 100% and its all set. Everything is woking perfect now. I cant wait to stick my other 6ch into the moa and mix away. I'm so happy now after I had bought a dx3c for its supposed mixing ability and found I wasted $120:x. I got lucky and was able to sell it for the same price and get a 3b and hack kit from you with $$$ left in my pocket after a few extra receivers"thumbsup". Thanks
 
highlandcrawler said:
Okay problem solved. There were 2 problems occurring. I guess that I screwed up the calibration for the steering ch and I had gotten the steering speed turned way down. I recalibrated it and turned the speed up to 100% and its all set. Everything is woking perfect now. I cant wait to stick my other 6ch into the moa and mix away. I'm so happy now after I had bought a dx3c for its supposed mixing ability and found I wasted $120:x. I got lucky and was able to sell it for the same price and get a 3b and hack kit from you with $$$ left in my pocket after a few extra receivers"thumbsup". Thanks
Click to expand...

Glad you got it figured out...
 
Last edited:
Also i just received 100 new cables in the mail today, all hack kits shipped from today on will ship with the new cables.

Please refer all future instructions as reference to wire color. I consider Black and Green to be same, new cables come with the green on the end.

I'm going to be reading back through this thread and changing my instructions.
 
losikid said:
Has anyone have some feed back on how helpful this guide is...before i spend another chinck of time doing individual keys.

http://www.overkillrc.com/Key Mapping trims only.pdf
Click to expand...
I found it to be helpful. Once you figure out the functions the radio is very easy to use. Your info in the thread is also very helpful. You should move some of the info to the first page to make it a little easier for others in the future. Your info on twin speedo setup and calibration info are both things that should be in the beginning.

losikid said:
Also i just received 100 new cables in the mail today, all hack kits shipped from today on will ship with the new cables.

Please refer all future instructions as reference to wire color. I consider Black and Green to be same, new cables come with the green on the end.

I'm going to be reading back through this thread and changing my instructions.
Click to expand...

I don't know if you should change the existing direction as they still pertain to the other kits you already have out there. Maybe Just an extra notation of the cable types and colors. Just a though.

I'm loving mine so far and could not be happier. I plan to do a full detailed write up on my experience with it and you here soon"thumbsup"
 
highlandcrawler said:
I found it to be helpful. Once you figure out the functions the radio is very easy to use. Your info in the thread is also very helpful. You should move some of the info to the first page to make it a little easier for others in the future. Your info on twin speedo setup and calibration info are both things that should be in the beginning.
Click to expand...

Yes, i'm working on updating threads, my product pages, and stuff today...i'll be going through and adding important posts to page 1

highlandcrawler said:
I don't know if you should change the existing direction as they still pertain to the other kits you already have out there. Maybe Just an extra notation of the cable types and colors. Just a though.
Click to expand...
Yep, i'm just going to add a note to all my old threads.
 
I thought i already psoted this but can't find it, so here it goes

Calibration Procedure (you will need a volt meter)

To enter menu turn radio on, turn wheel full right then press and hold enter.
Its also displays right after you flash a new firmware...from stock firmware

With the 1 displayed on your left
Hold ST Wheel full left till numbers stop moving,
Press enter
Let ST Wheel center, once numbers stop changing
press enter
Turn wheel full right, once numbers stop changing
press enter

Now turn the enter button till 2 is displayed on your left

Hold trigger full throttle, let numbers stabilize
press enter
Let trigger center, let numbers stabilize
press enter
push trigger full reverse, let numbers stabilize
Press enter

now scroll to 4

with a volt meter measure your current battery voltage
press enter (while 4 is displayed)
Now scroll to the voltage your volt mete read
press enter

Now press and hold enter till you exit the calibration menu.
 
Page 5 of your preorder thread post # 84"thumbsup". Might wanna link the binding procedure for extra receivers also to the first page. You covered that in this thread on page 10 post 192. You have info all over the place lol
 
I flashed to 4.0 firmware and done the recalibration, when I tried to calibrate with esc(sidewinder micro) on xr10 strange things happen, steering is reversed(steer right turn left, steer left turn right), throttle forward esc's red light on, throttle backward esc's green light on, it seems everything reversed.

Before I do the above mentioned procedure, I ran original gt3d with my scx10 rtr (esc ae-2), everything is fine.

What's wrong, please help.
Thanx!
 
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Did you have your steering and throttle channels in NOR or REV before the flash? Most ESCs will want you to put the throttle channel in REV mode before calibrating the radio to the ESC. I know the 4.0 firmware works with the Sidewinder Micro, as I just flashed my radio last night and recalibrated to my MRC's Sidewinder Micro. Here's how I did it. Turn the radio on and make sure it is on the model memory you are planning to use for this vehicle. Set throttle channel to REV. Hold throttle rigger to full-forward, then turn on the Sidewinder Micro. You will hear the ESC beeping. The green light will come on and eventually you will hear the ESC beep 4 times. You have just set full forward. Now, the ESC should be blinking red. Move trigger to full-reverse. Again, the ESC should beep 4 times, but will now be flashing yellow. Let off of the trigger (neutral position) and wait for ESC to beep 4 times again. Your ESC and radio have now been calibrated. Wait for multitone from ESC to verify that it is out of program mode. There may be a possibility that you will need to switch the steering's channel to REV as well after calibration.
 
bugman72 said:
Did you have your steering and throttle channels in NOR or REV before the flash? Most ESCs will want you to put the throttle channel in REV mode before calibrating the radio to the ESC. I know the 4.0 firmware works with the Sidewinder Micro, as I just flashed my radio last night and recalibrated to my MRC's Sidewinder Micro. Here's how I did it. Turn the radio on and make sure it is on the model memory you are planning to use for this vehicle. Set throttle channel to REV. Hold throttle rigger to full-forward, then turn on the Sidewinder Micro. You will hear the ESC beeping. The green light will come on and eventually you will hear the ESC beep 4 times. You have just set full forward. Now, the ESC should be blinking red. Move trigger to full-reverse. Again, the ESC should beep 4 times, but will now be flashing yellow. Let off of the trigger (neutral position) and wait for ESC to beep 4 times again. Your ESC and radio have now been calibrated. Wait for multitone from ESC to verify that it is out of program mode. There may be a possibility that you will need to switch the steering's channel to REV as well after calibration.
Click to expand...
Hi bugman,
Thanx for your help.
I Set throttle channel to REV and finished the calibration, now I throttle forward the green light on but moving backward, then I set throttle channel back to NOR, when I throttle forward the motor moving forward but red light on. I'm so confused.
My motor is Tekin 55t, red lead on the + side, black lead on the opposite side, this is correct, right?
Thanx!
 
Have you programmed the Sidewinder Micro, either manually or via Castle Link so that it knows that you have a brushed motor connected? That could be the issue. If it is still in brushless mode, it may very well do what you are experiencing. I will say this...if you don't have a Castle Link, go get one. They are very much worth the money. Programming the ESC is SO much easier. But, for right now if you don't have one, just follow the manual that came with the ESC or go to http://www.castlecreations.com/support/documents/drivers_ed_guide.pdf and view it online.
 
bugman72 said:
Have you programmed the Sidewinder Micro, either manually or via Castle Link so that it knows that you have a brushed motor connected? That could be the issue. If it is still in brushless mode, it may very well do what you are experiencing. I will say this...if you don't have a Castle Link, go get one. They are very much worth the money. Programming the ESC is SO much easier. But, for right now if you don't have one, just follow the manual that came with the ESC or go to http://www.castlecreations.com/support/documents/drivers_ed_guide.pdf and view it online.
Click to expand...
+1.

Optionally, swap the wires on the motor and check that the TX is in "normal".8)
 
kc092755 said:
Hi bugman,
Thanx for your help.
I Set throttle channel to REV and finished the calibration, now I throttle forward the green light on but moving backward, then I set throttle channel back to NOR, when I throttle forward the motor moving forward but red light on. I'm so confused.
My motor is Tekin 55t, red lead on the + side, black lead on the opposite side, this is correct, right?
Thanx!
Click to expand...
The radio and esc sound like they are working correctly if the lights are working that way. I second charlie3 on just swapping the motor wires around.
 
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