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GT3B Hack Question and Answer Thread

I have a GT3B and purchased this hack but haven't had a chance to actually do it.

Here's what I'm trying to do, probably don't even need the hack to do it but since you know so much about the radio I figured you're the one to ask.

I have a Slash with a Castle 1410 in it and does around 30-35mph. I have a 2 year old boy who LOVES driving it but I'm not turning him loose with a 35mph truck.

Is there a setting, maybe dual rate, that controls the max throttle end point of the throttle? I was thinking maybe I can set up profile 1 for my driver profile at full speed and then if there is a way to limit max throttle I can setup driver profile 2 for him that's limited to %20 throttle or something?
 
You can't go editing posts without me seeing :ror:

Are you still in the pcb mfr industry?

LOL. No longer in mfr but still in electronics. The pcbs we used were high quality, like a fiberglass cloth laminate, I've seen some cheap boards that look like compressed resin impregnated cardboard...they work, but when a component fries it usually blackens and delaminates the pcb ruining the whole deal. Unlike good pcb where you can just replace the bad component(s).

At first they CA'd the crystals to the pcb after soldering, later they used what looked like a staple that fit into two solder through-holes in pcb to retain the crystal body. In later they went to smt (surface mount) crystals.
 
LOL. No longer in mfr but still in electronics. The pcbs we used were high quality, like a fiberglass cloth laminate, I've seen some cheap boards that look like compressed resin impregnated cardboard...they work, but when a component fries it usually blackens and delaminates the pcb ruining the whole deal. Unlike good pcb where you can just replace the bad component(s).

At first they CA'd the crystals to the pcb after soldering, later they used what looked like a staple that fit into two solder through-holes in pcb to retain the crystal body. In later they went to smt (surface mount) crystals.

Yea i've came across some horrible quality circuit boards before...if you screw up once the board is trashed.
 
OK ....I must be a dumbass , because I cant get it to work a winch. Any chanel will work , it works on the throttle and steering , so I know it works.

Long click rev
scroll to 3 (enter)
scroll to CH3 (enter)
Scroll to MOM (lon enter)
press back

and test it out, plug your winch into ch 3.
 
OK ....I must be a dumbass , because I cant get it to work a winch. Any chanel will work , it works on the throttle and steering , so I know it works.

Will it just not operate the winch, or does the winch just not move the way needed. I found that you need to disable or remap the push button 3ch. Or it will always start at -100 on channel 3 when you turn the radio on.
 
Heat will eventually harden and crumble CA glue.

ya dont use a gallon of thick CA nor sit and bun the piss out of the board. If "someone" spend that much heat to crumble the CA there would be a lot more issues than crumbled CA :lmao: Also "thick" CA is harder to crumble than thin and if accelerator was used it breaks down easier with less heat.

Unlike Kip Kay.... ive never been a fan of "hot glue". I used the small amount of CA to hold the 90deg in place as I had the board up side down when soldering. The solders can hold the 90deg in place well without any added "adhesion" if people arent ramming the plug onto the pins like sexually frustrated teenager. :mrgreen:
 
ya dont use a gallon of thick CA nor sit and bun the piss out of the board. If "someone" spend that much heat to crumble the CA there would be a lot more issues than crumbled CA :lmao: Also "thick" CA is harder to crumble than thin and if accelerator was used it breaks down easier with less heat.

Unlike Kip Kay.... ive never been a fan of "hot glue". I used the small amount of CA to hold the 90deg in place as I had the board up side down when soldering. The solders can hold the 90deg in place well without any added "adhesion" if people arent ramming the plug onto the pins like sexually frustrated teenager. :mrgreen:

I say to use a dab of hot glue to hold the header in place while soldering...
 
Long click rev
scroll to 3 (enter)
scroll to CH3 (enter)
Scroll to MOM (lon enter)
press back

and test it out, plug your winch into ch 3.

THat works....
Now I really feel like a dumbass


Thank you sir may I have another................"thumbsup"


EDIT : Well that was a waste of time..... had it working properly...unplugged , turned off , routed wires , buttoned up. Turned on radio and it was on the "winch in mode" and burned up the motor on the winch....FAK IT. Guess I dont need a winch anyway.
 
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the 3ch RX's have a failsafe mode. there is a setup howto on youtube. I dont know of the 6ch has a failsafe built in
 
the 3ch RX's have a failsafe mode. there is a setup howto on youtube. I dont know of the 6ch has a failsafe built in

no fail safe on 6 ch tr6a V2. Wouldnt matter either way. He had connection to receiver it was just in wrong mode (winch-in) when he turned it on.

Key of advice...... since most peoples winches "drift", you hook the end of your winch to a hair tie mounted to your rig (up over the cab usually) this prevents you winch from being stalled when your winch drifts. Never mount to a solid point
 
I have my ch3 trim button set to run a punk dig, every time I cycle the tx off then on, it defaults to front dig. I have to click it forward to get 0, it always resets to (I think) -100. Not sure why, but it sounds like thats the same thing happening to the guys trying to run a winch. Not a huge problem with a dig, just annoying.
 
The fix is to turn the ch3 button off via ch mapping

Long click rev
Scroll to c (enter)
Scroll to off (long enter)
Press back/end

(i think that's the order, on phone, so can't double check
 
uh oh, i leave for a weekend and it gets pushed to 2nd page. :roll:

Anyways i'll have a gt3b pre hacked in stock here in afew days...still working on extra rx's, i've been considering ordering in a bunch 3ch and 6ch from china too, but i can't compete with hobbypartz prices.
 
So i got in a few 4 pin cables, and i'm going to be swapping to a new one, however the cable can no longer be referred to with the arrows.
 
I finally got around to installing the firmware and doing the mod the the radio today. It went very easy and everything seems good. I am having a problem with a servo though. I have the radio bound to my jetboat and it is acting funny. When I steer the servo is very jerky and does not move properly or want to center very well. I had it working just fine before the hack. I double checked the servos function off another radio and it work just fine. Is there a setting in the radio that could be causing this issue? Throttle seems to work just fine also. Im using the 6ch firmware and a 3ch receiver that came with the radio. Any help or suggestions is appreciated:)
 
I finally got around to installing the firmware and doing the mod the the radio today. It went very easy and everything seems good. I am having a problem with a servo though. I have the radio bound to my jetboat and it is acting funny. When I steer the servo is very jerky and does not move properly or want to center very well. I had it working just fine before the hack. I double checked the servos function off another radio and it work just fine. Is there a setting in the radio that could be causing this issue? Throttle seems to work just fine also. Im using the 6ch firmware and a 3ch receiver that came with the radio. Any help or suggestions is appreciated:)

This is strange, i'll have to think about what could be causing it.

If you put the servo on the th channel it acts normal? (the servo)
 
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