e's ExMT

[ekd]

It could be a bit of a wait. I got a great deal on a mini lathe, and it arrived Fri. Smashed. The chip tray and backsplash were wrapped around it, and all the guards and handles were broken off. LOL... the idiot shipped it cross country, without breaking it down, in a simple cardboard box.

It's headed back. I have to wait until I either get my money back, or they take my $100 offer for the salvage, before I can decide how to proceed.

Have you figured out how you will clock your stockers? I think we may be thinking the same thing here, and I'll certainly have time to try it while I wait to work the custom parts.

 

[monkeyracer]

It could be a bit of a wait. I got a great deal on a mini lathe, and it arrived Fri. Smashed. The chip tray and backsplash were wrapped around it, and all the guards and handles were broken off. LOL... the idiot shipped it cross country, without breaking it down, in a simple cardboard box.

It's headed back. I have to wait until I either get my money back, or they take my $100 offer for the salvage, before I can decide how to proceed.

Have you figured out how you will clock your stockers? I think we may be thinking the same thing here, and I'll certainly have time to try it while I wait to work the custom parts.

That sucks on the mini lathe...

For clocking, I had a couple ideas, trying for simplicity like you are so someone else can duplicate it, but I had a different idea that might help with steering as well (not as much as CVDs but a noticeable difference if it works.)

I'll update my thread when/if it works out.

 

[Abavuso]

This was my solution for clocking... It worked with the plastic now, I need to buy some aluminum c's to make it solid.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3026146&postcount=91

Here's my main question conserining the MT... What's the Gear Ratio? So far with a 55T motor on 3S Lipo it still seams to strugle to make the wheels move during technical climbs... but the 65T kills too much of the wheel speed. I know the bullies are 65:1. I wonder what the MT is?

 

[monkeyracer]

This was my solution for clocking... It worked with the plastic now, I need to buy some aluminum c's to make it solid.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3026146&postcount=91

Here's my main question conserining the MT... What's the Gear Ratio? So far with a 55T motor on 3S Lipo it still seams to strugle to make the wheels move during technical climbs... but the 65T kills too much of the wheel speed. I know the bullies are 65:1. I wonder what the MT is?

These look like they are 40:1

math work:

motor pinion - 12T
1st gear - 40T
2nd pinion - 12T
3rd gear - 42T
4th pinion - 14T
Final gear - 48T

(40/12) * (42/12) * (48/14) = 40

My build is still in pieces so I haven't been able to see how it goes on 3s with 55Ts and dual sidewinders.

 

[ekd]

I'll update my thread when/if it works out.

And I'll be there 3 mins later.

This was my solution for clocking... It worked with the plastic now, I need to buy some aluminum c's to make it solid.

Good job! There's a lot of meat on those tubes... no one should feel shy about cutting on them.

I moved a couple priorities around (with a smile from my sweetie... gotta love the old girl), and pulled the trigger on something I should have done from the beginning:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/7-x-12-Mini-Metal-Lathe/G8688

Comes with a steady rest, a plate for my bigger chuck, and they don't ship in the boxes their socks came in.

Gonna turn things... sitting down! There's a concept.

Still no Punk... should I be worried?

 

[Abavuso]

Let me know when you've got you MT totaly ready to run and we can get together and do some crawling some weekend.

 

[ekd]

A, I can't really crawl. I'm in a 'chair most of the time now, I can't follow my rig. I would love to bash, though. Right now, I just stay within sight, and try to drive over everything. The cam setup is to see if I can try a more normal crawl. If I can make that work to a decent degree, I really want to get serious about building some skills.

I could learn a lot from you, and when I get this all figured out I'd really enjoy some wheel time with like minded folks.

Clocked a stocker. Cut the flange to allow it, but not enough to weaken the nearby screw's hold. Got 19 degrees.

Took a while to get it all precisely drilled and countered, and frankly I think that is a waste of time. I don't see any reason why to limit it to 19, or even precisely punch the holes. Getting them within 1.5 RCH takes a lot of time whether you use a rotary table or not.

There is simply no reason why you can't cut away all the flange you have to to get the perfect combo of caster, and GC you need... then JB weld them. The bearings are not retained between the parts. All that's needed is to make sure the bearings line up before it hardens... there is some slop between the flange and it's boss.

I'm going to glue one, and try to break it in 24 hrs. Gonna take one for the team...lol.

 

[BentMetaL]

Now your talking about clocking, looks like it could work fine. I would take the 2 cases and and screw them back together (empty). Make a jig to bolt it to (square and flat). Then drill through both cases at the same time. That would insure that the clocking would be the same on each side.

 

[ekd]

Yup. That'll help. I'm betting the notch and epoxy ends up the easiest, though. There is a lot of surface area, and the bosses, to make a glue joint stout.

For a $0 mod, it's quite an improvement.

Without machine tools, I would go with A's mod with aluminum Cs. It's cheap, strong, and effective. For the cheapest SOBs (like me)... go with this one until (if) the Cs break, then go with A's. Unless, of course, monkeyracer has a better idea... I'd like to know what he's thinking whether it works or not. Addicted to brain candy here. Long term addiction...

 

[ekd]

Monitor is in. I stole this, and still got great service.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250891678515?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

 

[monkeyracer]

Yup. That'll help. I'm betting the notch and epoxy ends up the easiest, though. There is a lot of surface area, and the bosses, to make a glue joint stout.

For a $0 mod, it's quite an improvement.

Without machine tools, I would go with A's mod with aluminum Cs. It's cheap, strong, and effective. For the cheapest SOBs (like me)... go with this one until (if) the Cs break, then go with A's. Unless, of course, monkeyracer has a better idea... I'd like to know what he's thinking whether it works or not. Addicted to brain candy here. Long term addiction...

My idea is really a mixture of what you did with Abavuso's mod, nothing too crazy, but I want to make something repeatable, so that all 4 tubes are clocked the exact same degree, but have durable and replacable C-Hubs and knuckles.

I don't like the glue idea just because if it breaks, you are buying cases and tubes, not that they are expensive, I just don't like buying parts unnecessarily.

 

[ekd]

If you have a rotary table available, you can screw them together, put a bolt thru them and chuck it up. As repeatable as it gets.

I also want Al Cs, but my custom setup will use the burly Stone Al parts. I just did this clocking to give options to later readers/builders.

A thought about gluing... if good CA is used, the unbroken parts could be salvaged by soaking it all in Acetone.

If you need your housings drilled accurately, and can't get to a rotary table, PM me. I'll do a few sets (15, 17 and 19*?) on my table for you, free.

 

[ekd]

an edit turned into another post... weird.

 

[monkeyracer]

If you have a rotary table available, you can screw them together, put a bolt thru them and chuck it up. As repeatable as it gets.

I also want Al Cs, but my custom setup will use the burly Stone Al parts. I just did this clocking to give options to later readers/builders.

A thought about gluing... if good CA is used, the unbroken parts could be salvaged by soaking it all in Acetone.

If you need your housings drilled accurately, and can't get to a rotary table, PM me. I'll do a few sets (15, 17 and 19*?) on my table for you, free.

I can get the precision here with careful measurement and my dremel workstation, but I was referring more to a clocking fixture like what the berg guys use. This can be laser cut really easily and give two different degree options and would be great for someone with just a hand drill. For the knuckle side, my clocking option also allows more steering out of stock components, but until I get the measurements done, I won't know how much more.

Since we are among the first to have these crawlers, and have some engineering sense, we need to have some repeat-ability in the results so that others can get these axles, and follow what we have done.

That monitor should help you be able to get a FPV of the crawling and allow you to crawl from your chair, but there are some maneuvers you will still likely need a spotter for, as well as someone to help in a rollover situation. It's a great solution, and you got a great deal on that monitor. It's resolution is probably not that great, but good enough for the task.

 

[ekd]

That's some good thinking, M. And, as usual, you gave me a couple ideas... :mrgreen:"thumbsup"

I'm kinda hoping I do get halfway decent at this, and can find a comp that will have me... I can bribe someone who knows crawling to flip and spot. The vid setup has audio, so I can hear around the rig. They'd just have to think out loud.

I may be just dreamin' here, but I really miss friendly but intense competition. Survived 1:1 fun, and could use another chance to cuss myself out, under my breath, as I focus completely.

 

[ekd]

$10 paypal to the first person to post, on this thread, a jpg. template that can be printed and used to place accurate holes to clock stock tubed MTs.

The only folks who can "see" my drawings are machinists who can also "draw" on bar napkins. :roll:

edit: M, if someone takes up this offer, and if you (or A) decide to make the jig for profit... the template will vanish immediately. Jig's a great idea... go for it.

 

[monkeyracer]

$10 paypal to the first person to post, on this thread, a jpg. template that can be printed and used to place accurate holes to clock stock tubed MTs.

The only folks who can "see" my drawings are machinists who can also "draw" on bar napkins. :roll:

edit: M, if someone takes up this offer, and if you (or A) decide to make the jig for profit... the template will vanish immediately. Jig's a great idea... go for it.

I was planning exactly that but without my vendor star, I was trying to leave it non-descript until I got the star.

I love bar-napkin drawings, but love more to put them in the computer to make sure the measurements work out.

 

[ekd]

Offer withdrawn.

Get on it, M. It's needed.

Are you capable of, and interested in converting proto parts into cam files?

 

[monkeyracer]

Offer withdrawn.

Get on it, M. It's needed.

Are you capable of, and interested in converting proto parts into cam files?

hey, I saw what you had at first:

Offer withdrawn.

You wuss. You don't like cutting all afternoon, just to find your first pass ruined it?? :mrgreen: You kids... and your electrified calculating machines... :roll:

Get on it, M. It's needed.

LOL!

I've hand cut tons of stuff, actually almost everything so far has been hand cut. I usually make a hand-cut prototype, then adjust the measurements from there.

I just appreciate that CAD can make sure that what was in my brain will work in reality with better precision than my dremel can get.

 

[ekd]

:mrgreen:

Yeah, saw that you and John-e had seen it, figured I'd let the rest of the guys figure out on their own that I'm fossilized. It wouldn't have taken them long.

I have some stuff here that I'd love to get CNC quotes on. The last time (back in my slotcar days) I had someone convert, it took a long time, and the CNC shop's machine couldn't read the result. Didn't pursue it further... sometimes wish I had.

I hear you on the CAD. Having some proof of quality design has to be comforting when you can't hold a part in your hand yet. Especially when you're about to lay real money down.

Please keep me up on your jig's progress? Not much I can help with, but if a pre-order would speed things up (and I can afford it), consider me interested.

The Grizzly will be here Thurs. I got a note from the first guy saying they'll be in touch when they get that lathe back. Said nothing about my offer, so I'm putting any more parts orders on hold, just in case. It's been an expensive month. If they take my offer, though, anything I make on the restoration will go directly into the crawler fund.

Is there any reason I should use BECs, instead of wiring my servos directly to batt? Got a couple of these dirt cheap:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170694183791?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649