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e's ExMT

After watching A's vid until the music was burned into my brain stem, a couple things are clear: It's a waste of time both precision boring the shafts, and producing the short tubes.

It's always nice when refinements make the job easier and simpler.

The vid makes it clear, at least to me, that this was a good investment... at least in terms of what can now be built here with what was learned. The pattern is set for a bunch of fun family rigs, and I have a good base to build straight axle weirdness for my amusement.

"thumbsup"
 
Anyone seen these before?

I've never heard of problems with the typical clamping arms, but this is actually the right way to clamp a splined shaft.

2 are on the way, for T's.

edit: I see integy sells an identical arm.. for 3 times what I paid. Ordered 2 more pair.
 

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Yup. Narrowed the wheels and foams 12mm, and put just enough soft foam over the stock to fill the space (under a little pressure).

I had to get rid of some bounce, and those square shoulders.
 
The last of my battery order finally came in.

It looks like there are a lot of interesting options here.
 

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Gotcha. What did you use to cut/sipe the tires with ?

Also want to go and do this, and need a reason for a new tool.
My best investment is Revlon toenail clippers with the spring loaded grips. Worth every penny ($16 at Rite aid.) They will clip tire lugs almost flush.
 
Thanks, guys.

I went ahead and ordered the Turnigys. If they can't do the job, I'll trash them in the basher fleet. :mrgreen: At that price, it's worth it either way.

I have to come up with shocks now. I have a bunch here, from buying up junkyards. I'll collect some samples, and pick your brains soon.

Not being on a deadline has really worked out here. This will be a pretty sweet rig. It looks like the only place it may need future upgrades is in the electronics... right where I wanted to be.

T could not be happier. "thumbsup"

A, I could not find the mail with your response in it... did you say to set it up with 2.5" clearance at the chassis' leading edge? Also, how much shock travel are you running on your Hawk?
 
Got a motherboard packed in this stuff. Tried it in the toy tires (packed to create arches with the halved peaks), and it creates firm spots in an alternating pattern between the sidewalls/shoulders and the center tread.

It's like a 3D star pattern. I'll eventually find out how it works around here. If it seems good, I'll try some acoustic foam.

You have to love a hobby that turns scraps into potential race parts or (at least) educational supplies. I'm now saving aluminum scraps down to thumbnail size. "thumbsup"
 

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Thanks, guys.

I went ahead and ordered the Turnigys. If they can't do the job, I'll trash them in the basher fleet. :mrgreen: At that price, it's worth it either way.

I have to come up with shocks now. I have a bunch here, from buying up junkyards. I'll collect some samples, and pick your brains soon.

Not being on a deadline has really worked out here. This will be a pretty sweet rig. It looks like the only place it may need future upgrades is in the electronics... right where I wanted to be.

T could not be happier. "thumbsup"

A, I could not find the mail with your response in it... did you say to set it up with 2.5" clearance at the chassis' leading edge? Also, how much shock travel are you running on your Hawk?

You want the leading edge of the chassis to be pointing directly at the bottom of the trans case. That way when the shocks are compressed the skid doesn't get bought on the rocks. The chassis is suppose to have a 12 degree slope from front to rear if that helps. Ride hight isn't a factor here as long as it's set up this way.

As for articulation, you want the rig to articulate enough that you can fit one tire hight under the lifted wheel.
 
Thanks.

I have a lot of options in shocks, and a lot of spare stuff to try weirdness on. I need to know the minimum travel needed for the hawk as you have it set up. I'm thinking my best baseline will be to start close to where you are, and tune it to the longer (1") WB.

I have been beating the crap out of Traxxas shocks for years now. I run a homemade laydown setup (short body and spring, and long shaft), in Rustler based bashers, that slows down the piston speeds significantly (no popped plastic caps, and they hold oil well). They put up with insane abuse... the one shown has outlived 3 bulkheads, including the one pictured. Although I have 3 types of blue aluminum (2 Losi, and the unknown brand I asked about much earlier), and those would be pretty... The TRX are light.

Any reason I shouldn't consider the TRX as well?
 

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I'm not sure I follow what you mean for minimum travel. The less travel you have the tougher is will be for it to react on the rocks. The travel of the shocks will be determined by the angle you place them from the axle to the chassis. I like to set mine at about 45 degrees front and rear that way the stock shocks use the full length of the shocks stroke.
 
It's the distance that the piston is allowed to travel, that I need. I have choices of body length here (and the lathe), and would rather build something suited to the job, than just go long and internally limit.
 
I'm not sure I follow what you mean for minimum travel. The less travel you have the tougher is will be for it to react on the rocks. The travel of the shocks will be determined by the angle you place them from the axle to the chassis. I like to set mine at about 45 degrees front and rear that way the stock shocks use the full length of the shocks stroke.
By "stock" do you mean XR10s? What are the lengths of those, compressed and extended?
 
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