winnerone23
I wanna be Dave
There is a electronics thread on the main menu.. that's where I head for electronic questions, plus post them here..
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prozac0107's aircraft carrier creeper build!
- Thread starter prozac0107
- Start date
rmdesignworks
I wanna be Dave
I can almost guarantee that if you had heat and smoke when you plugged it in, you fried it...since you reversed polarity and sent POS voltage up the NEG side you could have smoked the processor. I would pack it up and send it to Tekin...since you did reverse polarity the warranty is voided but still have them look at it....might be cheaper to be factory repaired then replaced.
prozac0107
Newbie
IT WASNT FRIED! IM JUST AN IDIOT! LOL! so when it was blinking the last led over and over again it wanted full throttle and then it went to first led blinking again it wanted full brake ect.ect. i was misunderstanding the directions! got it going drove it for about ten min tried to crawl over my buddy while he was sleeping on the floor and pop! right front axel broke right at the cvd ball. will post pics when i get it torn apart tonite! really sucks that this happened and i dont have enough time left to try and order a new part, im afraid i will be gone before it arrives! also i think the holes in the diff carrier are wallerd out buy lock ring cuz it pops when you turn the other wheel. again i will see when i pull it apart tonite. more to come on this!
winnerone23
I wanna be Dave
You could order it now an have it shipped home.. remember ur 1.. 2.. 3... Lol better add, 0.5.. fix what's broke.. then get back to 1.. the pop, may just be ur drive shaft.. the set screw may have backed out just a touch.. I had the same issue once. As soon as I changed my drive shaft out... It was gone.
89lxmorepower
Rock Crawler
ya i agree with winner check your drive shaft set screw also if you can find the pin for the axle you should be able to slid it back in then put some heat shrink tubing around to keep it from falling out till you can get some pin locks just my suggestion
prozac0107
Newbie
lol! yeah i plan on having it there when i get home! the sound comes from inside the diff and the wheels have more play than before i just have the washer mod in the diff right now and there was a little play between wheels and now it pops and plays a little more! havent had time to tear apart yet to see whats really going on, gonna jb weld while apart.
i dont know what you mean with the axle pin. the axle snapped right before the cvd ball and the kit i have came with the updated kit with the red pin locks!
scoggdog13
Pebble Pounder
so if my front drive shaft keeps slipping off the axle, i should get a new drive shaft
jojo303d
Rock Crawler
loctite the set screw blue loctite and make sure that the set screw is against the flat part of the pinion and you should be good
winnerone23
I wanna be Dave
Dog 13.. I had the problem an had new traxxas yokes an long shafts that showed up, so instead of tightening down the set screw I just changed my shaft an yokes all together.. I put the set screws in with blue loc- tite an let them sit over night, it will be better when you wake up.
jojo303d
Rock Crawler
Yup traxxas steel yokes and long truck shafts are the ticket. either way stock or traxxas loctite on the set screws is a must."thumbsup"
28offroader
Quarry Creeper
I dont have any luck using blue lock tite, red is a must imo.
jojo303d
Rock Crawler
is it loc tite brand? I used green once not a good idea ask Thomas lol:lmao:
28offroader
Quarry Creeper
I use Permatex high strength red. I use red for all driveline parts and blue for all other metal to metal.
Lol, I can only imagine how fun it was to get the screws out using green....that's torch time...!
jojo303d
Rock Crawler
hell yes it was that wicking agent goes into everything spreads like the bubonic pleague! :shock:
89lxmorepower
Rock Crawler
Permatex red locktie is high strength permatex green is medium dont under stand why the difficult problem removing it
rmdesignworks
I wanna be Dave
Theres also a right way and a wrong way to use Loctite (LT)...I always put two or three drops of LT on a piece of clean metal for dipping the threads...I never apply it to the internal threads of whatever the screw/set screw is going into...the trick I use to GUM UP any threads is this...
All machined threads have residual oils on them...LT doesnt stick to oil and it doesnt cut through it or push it out of the way...I wash all hardware thats going to be LT'd in BRAKE CLEANER...if you use brake cleaner though..do it outside...put all of the hardware...even cvd stub shafts....in a glass bowl and add a covering amount of cleaner...then swish the parts around in the cleaner...remove the parts from the cleaner...dont pour the cleaner out then remove the parts...this can leave oils behind...I remove the parts and drop them in another bowl with a rag or paper towel in it and let them air dry.
apply a little LT to the threads and let it wick or run around the threads...dont touch it with your fingers to spread it...use a small piece of paper scrap like a brush if needed...let it sit for few minutes...start the set screw/screw/nut and turn it a few turns then back out then back in until tight...let it sit...if you use the part before the LT is cured...you have wrecked the bond you were trying to create...wipe off any excess LT.
Green LT is something you would use on aircraft so that NOTHING ever comes apart...if you use it on your Creeper then plan on destroying parts once the stuff cures. I use BLUE a lot and RED a little bit when a part doesnt seem to want to stick. Other wise if a part comes loose I will reapply BLUE and re-tighten as above. My drive shafts dont come off because they have been GUMMED UP by applying BLUE screwing the set screws all the way in then out then back in again...I let them set for about 4 hours then remove the set screws and apply BLUE the same way again and re-install.
All machined threads have residual oils on them...LT doesnt stick to oil and it doesnt cut through it or push it out of the way...I wash all hardware thats going to be LT'd in BRAKE CLEANER...if you use brake cleaner though..do it outside...put all of the hardware...even cvd stub shafts....in a glass bowl and add a covering amount of cleaner...then swish the parts around in the cleaner...remove the parts from the cleaner...dont pour the cleaner out then remove the parts...this can leave oils behind...I remove the parts and drop them in another bowl with a rag or paper towel in it and let them air dry.
apply a little LT to the threads and let it wick or run around the threads...dont touch it with your fingers to spread it...use a small piece of paper scrap like a brush if needed...let it sit for few minutes...start the set screw/screw/nut and turn it a few turns then back out then back in until tight...let it sit...if you use the part before the LT is cured...you have wrecked the bond you were trying to create...wipe off any excess LT.
Green LT is something you would use on aircraft so that NOTHING ever comes apart...if you use it on your Creeper then plan on destroying parts once the stuff cures. I use BLUE a lot and RED a little bit when a part doesnt seem to want to stick. Other wise if a part comes loose I will reapply BLUE and re-tighten as above. My drive shafts dont come off because they have been GUMMED UP by applying BLUE screwing the set screws all the way in then out then back in again...I let them set for about 4 hours then remove the set screws and apply BLUE the same way again and re-install.
prozac0107
Newbie
whats up fellas i havent been on here in awhile. i recieved the package for the deans plugs and..... no plugs inside there was a small hole in the plastic bag they shipped them in. but im not too upset cuz i used the banana plugs for now but still got the broken drive shaft. i only have about 3 weeks left out here so im shipping the creeper home this week i will mess with it when i get there! on the up side i have a new toy waiting for me when i get home, i bought a rustler vxl and pretty much every aftermarket part you can get for it. i am going on a quest for 100mph! gonna do it with a mamba monster 1/8 setup! so between the creeper and the rusty i got some good times ahead of me! i will update when i get home!
28offroader
Quarry Creeper
What a crock, wait all that time for Deans and then they're not in the bag. That's farked up!
Be sure to post a link to where your Rustler build thread will be at I'd like to check that out.
Be sure to post a link to where your Rustler build thread will be at I'd like to check that out.
viper6171
RCC Addict
rustler sounds like fun prozac , my stepson had one with a vxl system and 11.1v lipo ( thing was stupidly fast , you couldn't use full throttle ) . so i guess my little piece of advice would be to put some weight in the front .
winnerone23
I wanna be Dave
Lol, good to hear from ya zach.. I just got a 1/16 summit.. its the 550 can an I already ran it with 2s an dual battery packs.. thought it was quick on stock batteries in parallel then I thru the lipo in.. Hahahaha.. quick! I'm not goin for lots of speed as my son will be driving it too.. I do want some more torque an I deff want to find some stickier tires... Looking for a vxl system for it... Good times good times! Sucks bout the deans, can't wait to get updates when ya get home!
