Nimyad
Quarry Creeper
You'll need different axle tubes as well, the length is different for sb and mt
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DLUX super build
- Thread starter Erik D_lux
- Start date
Jake Ewing
Rock Stacker
Do you know of any cheap and light ones?
Last edited:
Jake Ewing
Rock Stacker
Would these work?
Bully Light Weight Front Axle Tubes & Knuckles (Black)
I do not necessarily want to do this though... I mean like i want some more turning radius but I would pretty much be redesigning my whole axle just for it..."thumbsup"
Bully Light Weight Front Axle Tubes & Knuckles (Black)
I do not necessarily want to do this though... I mean like i want some more turning radius but I would pretty much be redesigning my whole axle just for it..."thumbsup"
Jake Ewing
Rock Stacker
Could I shave the Shafts down to make them shorter...? "thumbsup"
Nimyad
Quarry Creeper
Bully tubes won't work without quite a bit of mods as per what Erik told me earlier, you've be better off making your own delrin tubes or ordering a set from DLux. I'm not sure about being able to shave down the shafts or not.
You should start up a build thread and ask your questions there so you can have one central place to go back to, along with a place to document your progress. "thumbsup"
You should start up a build thread and ask your questions there so you can have one central place to go back to, along with a place to document your progress. "thumbsup"
You shouldnt. You should be able to cut down a super Bully shaft to fit. The tubes I have here for the MT are shorter than a super Bully shaft so I dont see why it would not work.
See above. I think so.
YES! LOL "thumbsup"
Jake Ewing
Rock Stacker
True..probably start one soon
I would call this an update but its more like a complete rebuild.
The only things staying the same will be:
Gears (Berg/HR mix)
Electronics
Wheels and tires
Links
Oh quickly everything can be reduced to nothing.....
The only things staying the same will be:
Gears (Berg/HR mix)
Electronics
Wheels and tires
Links
Oh quickly everything can be reduced to nothing.....
Nimyad
Quarry Creeper
Looking forward to this "thumbsup"
I have a few questions for you though.
1. Where can you get the hr gears, I want to do a mix like you did so I can run the different pinions, but I can't find anywhere that sells just the gears.
2. What axle shafts are you running, just Bully's with the tang modified to fit the berg locker or?
Thanks in advance Erik :mrgreen:
I have a few questions for you though.
1. Where can you get the hr gears, I want to do a mix like you did so I can run the different pinions, but I can't find anywhere that sells just the gears.
2. What axle shafts are you running, just Bully's with the tang modified to fit the berg locker or?
Thanks in advance Erik :mrgreen:
The first order of business was to address the axle bearings in the Bully knuckles. The 8x12 bearings did pretty good in my 2.2 but in my super, they were always on the verge of blowing. I cant tell you how much money I have spent replacing them and I cant tell you how sick I am of tearing them apart to replace them.
I have actually been working on this issue for the last couple of months. At first, I started by replacing the 2 8x12 bearings with a single 8x12 needle bearing. These bearings were brute but the tolerances left a lot to be desired. They felt like they bearings were already blown even when they were new. Since I had to drill out the knuckle to remove the spacer in the middle that separates the bearing, I now had some extra space in my knuckles that I had to figure out what to do. Since I was desperate to make something work and I was at the West Coast Shootout, I just threw 3- 8x12 bearings in. This was HUGE and helped a lot, however, I like over kill and wanted to step it up another level.
I am now milling out the knuckles to a 8x14 bearing. I am also running 3 in each knuckle. I think this is the end of my bearing problems.
When I took my knuckles off, 3 out of the 8 were blown. Pretty standard. Here is this pic, you can see just how tiny the bearings are.
Bring in the heat!
Everything on the left is 14mm, everything on the right is 12mm.
I have actually been working on this issue for the last couple of months. At first, I started by replacing the 2 8x12 bearings with a single 8x12 needle bearing. These bearings were brute but the tolerances left a lot to be desired. They felt like they bearings were already blown even when they were new. Since I had to drill out the knuckle to remove the spacer in the middle that separates the bearing, I now had some extra space in my knuckles that I had to figure out what to do. Since I was desperate to make something work and I was at the West Coast Shootout, I just threw 3- 8x12 bearings in. This was HUGE and helped a lot, however, I like over kill and wanted to step it up another level.
I am now milling out the knuckles to a 8x14 bearing. I am also running 3 in each knuckle. I think this is the end of my bearing problems.
When I took my knuckles off, 3 out of the 8 were blown. Pretty standard. Here is this pic, you can see just how tiny the bearings are.
Bring in the heat!
Everything on the left is 14mm, everything on the right is 12mm.
Next was to lose some weight in the motors.
I think the guys who think they lose power by lathing a can are out to lunch but, I have been waiting to do this because I did notice on my 2.2 that there was a tiny bit lost in drag brake. Using the sidewinders and these big tires, I want all that I can get. Now that I am using the HR gears, I feel like I have perfect gearing and even better is that my drag brake feels plenty powerful so, I got down to shaving the cans.
I think the guys who think they lose power by lathing a can are out to lunch but, I have been waiting to do this because I did notice on my 2.2 that there was a tiny bit lost in drag brake. Using the sidewinders and these big tires, I want all that I can get. Now that I am using the HR gears, I feel like I have perfect gearing and even better is that my drag brake feels plenty powerful so, I got down to shaving the cans.
Time for a new chassis!
It has taken quite awhile to feel great about the tuning on this car. I dont drive it as much as my 2.2 but at the same time, you think you know how to tune something with your 2.2 and that it will cross over BUT some things just dont work that way. So, this has been a major work in progress. I feel like the chassis could use some changes and I feel like I am really close to where I want to be. Lastly, I cant believe nobody has taken advantage of the smaller bodiless rules. This should really, really help the super scene.
New chassis has been cut
The difference in size before and after are un real. The old one was not exactly huge either.
It has taken quite awhile to feel great about the tuning on this car. I dont drive it as much as my 2.2 but at the same time, you think you know how to tune something with your 2.2 and that it will cross over BUT some things just dont work that way. So, this has been a major work in progress. I feel like the chassis could use some changes and I feel like I am really close to where I want to be. Lastly, I cant believe nobody has taken advantage of the smaller bodiless rules. This should really, really help the super scene.
New chassis has been cut
The difference in size before and after are un real. The old one was not exactly huge either.
Last thing I have for tonight is the axles. They are all done up and ready to go. I am just waiting on some more 8x14 knuckle bearings and I will be off.
I changed up my axles a bit for this build. I was watching "fritzthefly"s build and noticed that he made his rear wider than the front to reduce scrub. This made some sense to me and I wanted to try it so, I ended up making the rear 1.2" wider than the front. This should allow me to run an equivalent to a 100 size hub (smaller than 225). I figure the worst that could happen is that I dont like it, I can easily trim the tubes and shafts down and do whatever width I like.
I changed up my axles a bit for this build. I was watching "fritzthefly"s build and noticed that he made his rear wider than the front to reduce scrub. This made some sense to me and I wanted to try it so, I ended up making the rear 1.2" wider than the front. This should allow me to run an equivalent to a 100 size hub (smaller than 225). I figure the worst that could happen is that I dont like it, I can easily trim the tubes and shafts down and do whatever width I like.
About as light as I think I can get them.... I suppose I will still have AL and TI hardware to switch to as soon as I order it up.
14.6oz with motor installed.
I forgot to weigh the motor by itself but my others came out to 5.5oz so, I figure this axle should be close to 9.1oz. "thumbsup" Edit: That is the rear, the longer of the 2.
14.6oz with motor installed.
I forgot to weigh the motor by itself but my others came out to 5.5oz so, I figure this axle should be close to 9.1oz. "thumbsup" Edit: That is the rear, the longer of the 2.
Not sure where to get the gears. Pretty sure HR sold out of them so, I think that leaves you with finding used or buying the entire HR axle new. I know there are some new ones for sale, you just have to figure out if its worth the cost for you. I would really think if anybody actually ran an HR, they would beg to trade out the 2nd gear for a Berg since the HR 2nd in a 2.2 is pretty worthless.
The axle shafts are custom, even more so right now. I need to do some testing and I will post that info up in a couple of months.
Thanks man! I think they are one step closer to being ideal for me. I just wanted to pass on the info so the other Bully guys could benefit. I have also been running the bearing mod in my 2.2 along with others and its been rock solid. It even takes the infamous slop out of the axles. With these mods and the kingpin mod, they are a super tight setup.
My curiosity is making me ask this...why didn't you go with your "rear" trans case on these axles and offset the servo to one side of the motor? It appears that you could've pushed the trans case up against the link mount on the tubes and then put the servo between the motor and the other link mount.
Nimyad
Quarry Creeper
Alright, guess I'll keep my eye out for someone looking to trade.
Since those are custom, do you think bully shafts would hold up if I made the tang small enough to work in a berg locker?
I had the thought of doing the "rear" case but putting the servo vertically to the tubes kinda like JeremyH does with his Berg. I think that would accomplish the same thing youre talking about?
To answer your question, I didnt do it because I didnt have the balls. I think it would be a better setup but I dont know 100% that it would work. I have close to 30 hours into the axles alone and I didnt want to put that kind of time into the housing and the shafts and figure out that they dont work. Since nothing is the same front to rear, it would have been more to risk than I wanted right now.
With this much steering, I think it would make everything too wide? Right now, like I have in the above pics, a servo would not fit against the non motor side and I cant put a servo along side of the motor without running into clearance issues. As I have it, the front is perfect and I dont have any clearance issues, I could probably do 80* of steering if I could find the shafts. In the rear, since my links are different, I have clearances issues and probably only get 60* worth of steering.
Thanks for bringing it up though. I would have loved to put the rear cases in instead of both being fronts. I thought long and hard about it. If you see something I dont, speak up, I would love to hear it.
To answer your question, I didnt do it because I didnt have the balls. I think it would be a better setup but I dont know 100% that it would work. I have close to 30 hours into the axles alone and I didnt want to put that kind of time into the housing and the shafts and figure out that they dont work. Since nothing is the same front to rear, it would have been more to risk than I wanted right now.
With this much steering, I think it would make everything too wide? Right now, like I have in the above pics, a servo would not fit against the non motor side and I cant put a servo along side of the motor without running into clearance issues. As I have it, the front is perfect and I dont have any clearance issues, I could probably do 80* of steering if I could find the shafts. In the rear, since my links are different, I have clearances issues and probably only get 60* worth of steering.
Thanks for bringing it up though. I would have loved to put the rear cases in instead of both being fronts. I thought long and hard about it. If you see something I dont, speak up, I would love to hear it.
I ran Super Bully shafts in my super for a long time, check earlier in this thread. I had a ton of time on them and then I broke one at Nats and it ruined my day. Soon after that, I broke another, both at the tang. If youre not competing or looking for the best of the best, I think they are a great option.
If you can keep the MT locker, its allows a much bigger tang and I think that would be the best answer.
