i have a question about a eagle talon? (a.k.a. DSM)

[rc2008]

my friend has a 1997 talon with the 420a motor and I changed the oil pan for him and now it is slightly seeping from the gasket area (I used the right stuff gasket maker) but I looked online at some forums and im getting mixed answers does the 420a require a gasket or could I just pull the pan off clean it again then use the right stuff again?

thanks in advance!

 

[road_rascal]

I'm assuming it's a paper or cork gasket? If so I would use a flange/ gasket sealant. I've been using Hylomar HPF (it can be hard to find) for years and haven't had a leak on anything I've used it on, mainly on motorcycles. Also make sure you torque the bolts properly and in a criss-cross pattern.

 

[rc2008]

I used the right stuff gasket maker, i wonder if i didnt use enough i laid a 1/4 inch bead on the flange.

 

[road_rascal]

Ok, so is this the stuff you used? And just used that and nothing else (no other gasket), correct? I found a post here (#6) which may help. Everything I've worked on used some sort of gasket; paper, cork or rubber, not metal to metal contact.

 

[rc2008]

Ok, so is this the stuff you used? And just used that and nothing else (no other gasket), correct? I found a post here (#6) which may help. Everything I've worked on used some sort of gasket; paper, cork or rubber, not metal to metal contact.

that is what I used, I think I will just put a gasket in and hope for the best. I have always used the gasket maker and never had an issue but that was on my Hondas

 

[road_rascal]

If that doesn't work then I'm not sure what to say. Maybe the pan is slightly warped? Good luck!

 

[meatmonkey]

Not sure on your particular DSM product, but many other Japanese cars don't use oil pan gaskets. I work on a lot of Subaru's, replacing rusty oil pans, and they only use a FIPG (form-in-place-gasket) called "Fuji-bond". It's basically fancy Black oil-resistant RTV (room-temperature-vulcanizing) sealant, comes in a caulking gun tube.

I've never had one come back leaking. If the other option is a cork gasket, then I also prefer to seal a flat surfaced oil pan with RTV. Over time the cork get saturated in oil and loose its "squeeze" resulting in loose bolts, leakage, and having to dink with it again.

Most sealants are only truly effective if both mating surfaces are completely clean and free of any knicks/imperfections. I typically use a razor bland and a steady hand on the sealing surfaces to make sure they are catch-free and clean.

Make sure no oil drips down into your sealing surfaces right before you put the pan on or it could cause a slow seepage issue. Also be sure to surround all the bolt holes and gently torque the bolts going around a few times as the sealer is displaced.

Put the oilpan flange down on a perfectly flat surface (I have this sweet chunk of polished granite I use) and make sure that it sits flush, with no rocking back and forth. Also put a cordless shop light inside of it and inspect for "leakage" with it sitting on your flat-plate to see if the rail is tweaked wherever you possibly pried the pan off.

I know a few guys in the heavy trucking industry who like that "Right-Stuff", but personally I've only used it twice and didn't care for it. Seemed almost porous and excessively stringy out of the canister.

I see that you said "changed" the oil pan. If the replacement is a cheapo partstore china made one, then it is likely bent/tweaked right out of the box. At least that's how the toyota/ford/subaru ones are that people ask me to put on because they are half the cost of the correct-fitting pan.

 

[rc2008]

the new oil pan was only $45 so im assuming its a cheapo china made one and when I pull the pan again I will be sure to check the flange. I made sure to clean the block with a razor blade and used a some blue shop towels to wipe the oil off, so this time I will do the same steps again but maybe try another brand of form a gasket (RTV).

now that I think about it the old oil pan had red RTV on it, do you think that the red high temp RTV would be better than the "right stuff"

 

[Draggermirage]

Few things I can see here.

The 420a is the Dodge Neon engine. Uses a Mopar transmission as well. Purely Mopar. The DSM engine is the Mitsu built 4G63. Two completely different animals.

The 420a does indeed use an oil pan gasket which looks like a rubber gasket with torque limiting bolt grommets. The Mitsu engine is purely an RTV oil pan gasket. Right Stuff hasn't let me down yet for these.

Clean both gasket surfaces and install the gasket only. The only place you may need sealant at all would be on any corners that may not seal by gasket only. Looking at the gasket itself though, you won't need it.

I personally only use the black "Right Stuff" on any application that deems it suitable. Oil Pan gaskets, VC gaskets, etc. Any non-clearance sensitive applications basically as it forms a thicker "gasket" than normal RTV. It doesn't squish out as easily as normal RTV.

Marcus

 

[rc2008]

Few things I can see here.

The 420a is the Dodge Neon engine. Uses a Mopar transmission as well. Purely Mopar. The DSM engine is the Mitsu built 4G63. Two completely different animals.

The 420a does indeed use an oil pan gasket which looks like a rubber gasket with torque limiting bolt grommets. The Mitsu engine is purely an RTV oil pan gasket. Right Stuff hasn't let me down yet for these.

Clean both gasket surfaces and install the gasket only. The only place you may need sealant at all would be on any corners that may not seal by gasket only. Looking at the gasket itself though, you won't need it.

I personally only use the black "Right Stuff" on any application that deems it suitable. Oil Pan gaskets, VC gaskets, etc. Any non-clearance sensitive applications basically as it forms a thicker "gasket" than normal RTV. It doesn't squish out as easily as normal RTV.

Marcus

thank you! that is what I needed to know if the 420a motor used a gasket or the right stuff.....well im going to get a gasket and redo the pan.