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Tommy's Class 1 Jeep

haha don't turn into a Eric! :lmao: just pick a class and get this thing on the rocks!

for what its worth Tommy I think the WB on this rig works best for C0 or C1. and the flares are too cool to hack off for c2

good luck and cant wait for the updates! (and Eric I hope you can read my usual sarcasm/intended humor in the above post :mrgreen: )
 
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Well, for the time being it's a Class 1.5 rig! The tire clearance isn't enough for C1, but otherwise it's entirely C1 legal. And truth be told, I'm DYING to run those Pit Bull Rock Beasts and don't know see any other C2 builds on my horizon. This would be the closest. I'm going to get it running with the current drivetrain, but before I buy any axles I need to decide:

- Buy Yota axles and keep it C1 or
- Keep the Axial axles and hack off the fender flares for C2

In the meantime, I've got work to do! And paint is drying as I type...

I've got some other C1 ideas... Maybe a New Bright JK shortened to a 2 door? I've also thought about resurrecting my old F350 body and making an expedition style wheeler out of it. Hell, I don't know what I'm going to do... Maybe I should continue with my initial plan to build a 4 door JK KoH type rig... Decisions, decisions.... :ror:
 
Okay, decision has been made. Getting some Yota II axles for the LJ. I found a front axle in stock, but will need to locate a rear axle relatively soon...
 
Did some research and it appears stock TLTs are nearly the exact same width as Yota axles. I have some TLTs so if I can't locate a Yota axle, I'll just run a TLT for the time being. A bonus is that the Yotas have a 2.53 ratio and the TLTs are 2.67 so I'd have just a bit of over/underdrive, too. "thumbsup"
 
Tommy, sorry to say but if I recall correctly the yota r&p ratio is the same as tlt. Count teeth, I never trust the numbers they post.

Nice looking with the growlers on it. "thumbsup"



Edit: Just counted a yota axle R&P, 40/15 so 2.666
 
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Thanks, Dean! That's okay, though. The OD/UD was going to be such a small difference anyway it likely wouldn't have made any difference. When is RC4WD ever going to come out with optional ratios for their axles??? :cry:
 
Thanks, Dean! That's okay, though. The OD/UD was going to be such a small difference anyway it likely wouldn't have made any difference. When is RC4WD ever going to come out with optional ratios for their axles??? :cry:

NP Tommy, my OG yota does just fine with same ratio axles.

Agreed. Been asking for that for quite awhile now. Hopefully someone who matters sees this thread and at least pretends it's their idea and makes it happen. :mrgreen:
 
Been working on reassembly of the chassis. It's all painted in flat black to more closely resemble a real chassis and not "stand out". I also decided to paint the bumpers and cage in flat black instead of satin to differentiate better it from the black gloss of the body....however, that may change soon and I may paint the bumper/cage satin again.
20131208_133932-L.jpg


I also went with black hardware so it won't stand out (it was all stainless before).
20131208_134003-L.jpg


Body is all prepped and sanded awaiting masking, primer, and paint. But I've decided to paint it a different color now. Just don't like the black color so I'm thinking of making it a bit more....vibrant. I'm going to test out the new color before I paint everything to see if I dig it. Pics coming once it warms up enough to paint! :roll:
20131208_134045-L.jpg
 
Locked Up RC located a rear axle for me so that should be here within a few days. I found a front axle at RPP and ordered it well over a week ago, but it's in limbo and I have no clue when it's supposed to arrive. :evil:
 
Looking good...good choice on the RC4WD axles, they have really been stepping up their game. With the new CVDs they have out, you can get some good steering out of them and I really like how narrow they are. They just need to get some UD and OD gears.:mrgreen: Also, if you want some more beef, I have heard good things about the Helical Gear Set (>LINK<).
 
Thanks, Justin! Yeah, I've been warned about the stock gear set. But I've kind of changed my mentality regarding wheelin' this rig. From now on, I'm not going to drive it like an idiot. I'm going to drive it more similarly to the way I drive my 1:1 Jeep. Some people may say that's the same thing, but whatEVA!!! :flipoff: Anyway, hopefully the gears will survive....

Yeah, hopefully RC4WD will one day come up with some OD/UD gears for us, but in the meantime I'll use some of the new XVDs. They seem pretty stout so hopefully they'll hold up! :)
 
Are you getting the new front yota axle with the 8* c hubs and knuckles ?
I heard the new cvd's for yota axle is suppose to be stronger and have more throw.
 
Are you getting the new front yota axle with the 8* c hubs and knuckles ?
I heard the new cvd's for yota axle is suppose to be stronger and have more throw.

It's the Yota II axles and it appears they have some kingpin inclination. Not sure if it's 8* or not, but I suspect it's the ones you're referring to. And yeah, I've heard good things about the new CVDs. 45* of throw, IIRC. "thumbsup"
 
Waterproofing some of the electronics. The ESC (Tekin FXR) and receiver are both soaking in Corrosion X. The servo (Hitec 7950) will get a light coating of the stuff, but I'm not going to submerge it in CX. The rest of the electronics will also be waterproofed. I want to be able to entirely submerge this thing without any worries.

20131209_132329-L.jpg
 
Waterproofing some of the electronics. The ESC (Tekin FXR) and receiver are both soaking in Corrosion X. The servo (Hitec 7950) will get a light coating of the stuff, but I'm not going to submerge it in CX. The rest of the electronics will also be waterproofed. I want to be able to entirely submerge this thing without any worries.
Will you please quit watching DJMedic videos.:mrgreen:
 
What is Corrosion X? How does it water proof the electronics.

It is a liquid that bonds to and forms a thin liquid/oily barrier for the electronic components. It feels oily afterward, which is why I removed the electronics from their plastic enclosures to apply the goop.

Will you please quit watching DJMedic videos.:mrgreen:

LOL!! Get outta here! This method is too high tech for him. :flipoff:
 
I would re apply every few months.

^This is not a bad idea. But in my case, I plan on re-applying every year or so, depending on how often it goes under water. But from what I've read, guys who fly rc seaplanes re-apply only once/year so I figured that should be sufficient for me, too.
 
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