hiding wires from light bar

[jeepscx10]

How have you hid the wires from your light bar?

 

[ZippoMan]

Would a conduit work? maybe heat shrink tubing. Electrical tape. Should not be too hard.

 

[old_dog]

I used heat shrink. Have also seen the small wire loom used.

 

[k7zpj]

You can make a wire loom and heat shrink the connections. The solder joints are y connections (2 wires on one side and 1 on the other). Here is a really rough drawing. It was the best I could do from an iPAD. The red boxes indicate where the joint is and where to cover with heat shrink.

The picture is for the positive wire. On the negative wire you need to add a resister close to the base of the LED so each LED has a resister on it.

As you can see there are 9 wires for positive and 9 for negative. You have to make the wire short and carefully add to the loom. It takes some time to do.
When I had them all connected I used wire ties to attach it to the bottom of the light bar.

Here is what it looks like from the top.

Hope this helps. At least don't make too much fun of my drawing. :roll:

 

[ik632]

I'm getting ready to wire up mine. Will probably wire the lights up on Sunday. I'll try to take a bunch of pictures. I have a pile of 50 led's and 300 120ohm resistors so I should have plenty in case I mess up. It doesn't matter which side the resistor is on though. I toyed with keeping the resistors in a box and running the wires up to the leds, but the resistors are so small it doesn't matter.

For wire, I'm using CAT5 cable that I cut up.

 

[k7zpj]

I used 24 gauge hook up wire. It is really flexible which makes wire management easier and it is more resistant to breaking than solid wire.

24 AWG Two Conductor Power Wire | Power Wires | Installation Supplies | Installation/Power Supplies/Misc | Super Bright LEDs

 

[dieselmudder]

You can make a wire loom and heat shrink the connections. The solder joints are y connections (2 wires on one side and 1 on the other). Here is a really rough drawing. It was the best I could do from an iPAD. The red boxes indicate where the joint is and where to cover with heat shrink.

The picture is for the positive wire. On the negative wire you need to add a resister close to the base of the LED so each LED has a resister on it.

As you can see there are 9 wires for positive and 9 for negative. You have to make the wire short and carefully add to the loom. It takes some time to do.
When I had them all connected I used wire ties to attach it to the bottom of the light bar.

Here is what it looks like from the top.

Hope this helps. At least don't make too much fun of my drawing. :roll:

turned out pretty clean, was the thought i was gonna try to go with on mine, glad you posted up the pic.

 

[k7zpj]

turned out pretty clean, was the thought i was gonna try to go with on mine, glad you posted up the pic.

Thank you. It took a bit to figure out how to get it right.

I also have a on/off switch tie wrapped to the top of the cage so that you can reach in and turn the lights on and off but can't really see the switch unless you look really close.

At some point I will probably upgrade to one of these to turn the light bar on and off with the radio.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vendors-electronics/290418-remote-switch-led-lighting.html

 

[Dington]

Were you able to wire it in and still use the stock lights ? I'm trying to figure this out right now. Thanks

 

[seanmnew]

I used electrical tape to wrap it along the bars

 

[k7zpj]

Were you able to wire it in and still use the stock lights ? I'm trying to figure this out right now. Thanks

I made my own LED harness to reduce the number of wires involved as the diagram shows above. I used the HeyOK switch to turn the light bar on and off via the