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Things to know before you start building your Ascender...
- Thread starter Rich Trujillo
- Start date
Bajacaat
Pebble Pounder
Had the same issue with the cvd insert. I'm using an xtm 3300 kv brushless motor 550 and it was a little long. Nothing a dremel couldn't handle. My concern is the heat from the motor being so close to the lipo...
Inclodneato
Quarry Creeper
I'm building this kit right now and there isn't anything about all these goofy ass links up front size wize in the manual Orr here
I have received feedback about the link sizes being confusing. I'm looking into a way to improve this. The current version shows what size link you will need for this specific wheel base. Though we don't have a 1:1 picture to compare, all the links are pretty far apart in size minus the 61mm and 66mm which when put together side by side is easy to tell apart.
The one exception that I missed was the front upper link which should be a 61mm and not a 66mm as then manual shows. Link
I hope this info makes your build a bit easier.
Rich
OSRC
I wanna be Dave
I though it was pretty clear myself. Right at the top of the page as Rich showed. I've built 100's of kits though.
I can see how it could get a bit hairy. I would suggest maybe just showing the steps to build the truck box stock in the instuctions, with a seperate section at the end outlining different chassis and link configurations. Might be a bit more clear.
I can see how it could get a bit hairy. I would suggest maybe just showing the steps to build the truck box stock in the instuctions, with a seperate section at the end outlining different chassis and link configurations. Might be a bit more clear.
joe122
RCC Addict
I have some assembly tips for those just getting the kit, the tiny diff cover screws are a little difficult to start. I started a screw in the opposite end, the nylock side just enough to hold it in place while I started the diff cover screw. Also the right side trans mount seems to have come out of the mold slightly larger than the left. You can sand a little or, just start the screws that attach it the the frame and it draws right in. And I did have to clean out one CVD pivot shaft as the pin would not push through cleanly. Otherwise, kit is awesome so far, can't wait to get power to it.
I just started the build today, and i didn't experience a tight cvd pin but a tight driveshaft pin. But this isn't my first build so it just took awhile to make it work. So i pressed with the build so far. Can't wait to finish it.
HulapunchRacing
Newbie
Any one else have issues either with missing or duplicate parts? B4 missing vtr232074, link mount. Mine is the same as the correct part on C4. On the frame missing VTR231034 have 2 of the same parts, but no 1st brace. Ive contact vaterra on the first issue, twice with pics, still waiting for response, havent contacted them about the missing frame piece. This is my first vaterra kit. It was a sealed kit from my local shop. Frustrated build
Crusty Old Shellback
Rock Stacker
new guy here.
Just finished building my rolling chassis. When I went to place the body on the frame to see how it looked, the wheels did not line up with the wheel wells. I have read just about every thread in this form and had read the one of another poster here having the same issue.
So I was aware of what the problem was. But when I went back and looked at the instruction book, that is where I notcied what the issue was, or at least was in my case. If you look at the drawing and follow the hole alingment based on the front of the rails and center block, everything will line up. But if you look at the drawing and follow the rear holes and center block alingment mounting, you will be off by one hole aft, which is what happened to me.
Maybe the drawing can be updated and a bit clearer as to where to mount the block fore AND aft.
I also had an issue trying to figure out where the 3rd link on the front axle mounted to the frame. The drawings are not very clear. I found a few good pictures on this forum that showed me exactly where to mount them.
I will admit that my last "kit" RC car was some 30 years ago with a team Assoicated Rc10 with the alunimum tub. I haven't been into RC in at least 25 years. But I've built plenty of full scale cars/trucks/motorcycles in my time so this is nothing new to me. Love the look and design and can't wait to take it outside to play.
Just finished building my rolling chassis. When I went to place the body on the frame to see how it looked, the wheels did not line up with the wheel wells. I have read just about every thread in this form and had read the one of another poster here having the same issue.
So I was aware of what the problem was. But when I went back and looked at the instruction book, that is where I notcied what the issue was, or at least was in my case. If you look at the drawing and follow the hole alingment based on the front of the rails and center block, everything will line up. But if you look at the drawing and follow the rear holes and center block alingment mounting, you will be off by one hole aft, which is what happened to me.
Maybe the drawing can be updated and a bit clearer as to where to mount the block fore AND aft.
I also had an issue trying to figure out where the 3rd link on the front axle mounted to the frame. The drawings are not very clear. I found a few good pictures on this forum that showed me exactly where to mount them.
I will admit that my last "kit" RC car was some 30 years ago with a team Assoicated Rc10 with the alunimum tub. I haven't been into RC in at least 25 years. But I've built plenty of full scale cars/trucks/motorcycles in my time so this is nothing new to me. Love the look and design and can't wait to take it outside to play.
Crusty Old Shellback
Rock Stacker
Hey Dex, yes I saw his other post and even printed out the drawings, but it was still a bit confusing, even after I knew what was wrong.
I had to look long and hard at the two drawings as I was fixing the problem. Of course it wasn't as easy as just sliding the center block forward one hole. That would have been to simple.
As others have noted, my center block fit tight on the right side rails so it took a bit to move it and align the holes. But all is good now and I got to run it a bit last night in the garage. Can't wait to get it outside to play with a little. Now I've got to get back to work on my 1:1 '87 K5.
I had to look long and hard at the two drawings as I was fixing the problem. Of course it wasn't as easy as just sliding the center block forward one hole. That would have been to simple.
As others have noted, my center block fit tight on the right side rails so it took a bit to move it and align the holes. But all is good now and I got to run it a bit last night in the garage. Can't wait to get it outside to play with a little. Now I've got to get back to work on my 1:1 '87 K5.
I am just about half way through putting one of these k5 kits together, chassis and axles, and I have had a few minor issues.
**step D-1 on page 40 and 41 in the manual off vaterra's website shows the rear frame rails lined up with 9 holes for chassis adjustment. The rails that were in the kit have 10. I had a lot of trouble getting things lined up for chassis length. After looking at page 41 I got the frame rails to the proper length, but I had the center skid plate lined up to he rear hole which was too far back for the body/wheels/bumpers to line up right.
1- the skid plate did not fit into one of the chassis rails. Wasn't out by much, I used an exacto at a right angle to scrape a little off the top and still had to use a moderate amount of force to get it in. May be just a one off of the rail out of spec, because the other side fit snugly with no problems.
2- the king pins, or screw and flanged washer in the front uprights. I had to loosen off the screws on top and bottom ~ 1/2 turn to get the steering to turn without binding. Not an issue now, but I am sure at least one of those screws will fall out at the most inconvenient time out on a long run somewhere.
3- the set screw pins in the wheel hex. They were all a little tricky to get lined up right, and on one of the rear hexes I leaned my hex driver a little too hard and snapped half the threads off the pin. I do like these pins that use the 2.0mm driver instead of a 1.5mm driver, but the sidewalls of the set screw part of the pin is a little thin. You will have to be careful if you are using a decent set of drivers and not just tiny Allen keys. I was able to make the broken one work, but I will have to get some replacements. It is nice that the wheel hexes fit snugly onto the outdrives, but the the set pins will not thread in until the pin is just through the outdrive and into the other side of the hex which was the main cause of trouble for me.
4- axle diff shims. It looks like two small .5mm shims or something. In the little addendum instructions they came with it showed one on each side of the axle ring gear. I wasn't sure about this and I put them both on one side to hold things tighter against the pinion. Everything seems to mesh good, but I don't know for sure it might be able to use some more.
5- after going through and assembling all of bag D, I was short one 3x10mm tapered head screw and had on extra 3x10mm button head screw. I went through the chassis and could find any wrong placement of any screws, so it must have been a small oversight in packaging. I am sure it is a rare mistake, luckily I had a pack of 3x10mm TH traxxas screws handy from another project.
Other than these minor bumps along the way I am impressed with this chassis so far. I may have to read some more forums for tips on this thing, this is the first thread I started reading while assembling this beast!
**step D-1 on page 40 and 41 in the manual off vaterra's website shows the rear frame rails lined up with 9 holes for chassis adjustment. The rails that were in the kit have 10. I had a lot of trouble getting things lined up for chassis length. After looking at page 41 I got the frame rails to the proper length, but I had the center skid plate lined up to he rear hole which was too far back for the body/wheels/bumpers to line up right.
1- the skid plate did not fit into one of the chassis rails. Wasn't out by much, I used an exacto at a right angle to scrape a little off the top and still had to use a moderate amount of force to get it in. May be just a one off of the rail out of spec, because the other side fit snugly with no problems.
2- the king pins, or screw and flanged washer in the front uprights. I had to loosen off the screws on top and bottom ~ 1/2 turn to get the steering to turn without binding. Not an issue now, but I am sure at least one of those screws will fall out at the most inconvenient time out on a long run somewhere.
3- the set screw pins in the wheel hex. They were all a little tricky to get lined up right, and on one of the rear hexes I leaned my hex driver a little too hard and snapped half the threads off the pin. I do like these pins that use the 2.0mm driver instead of a 1.5mm driver, but the sidewalls of the set screw part of the pin is a little thin. You will have to be careful if you are using a decent set of drivers and not just tiny Allen keys. I was able to make the broken one work, but I will have to get some replacements. It is nice that the wheel hexes fit snugly onto the outdrives, but the the set pins will not thread in until the pin is just through the outdrive and into the other side of the hex which was the main cause of trouble for me.
4- axle diff shims. It looks like two small .5mm shims or something. In the little addendum instructions they came with it showed one on each side of the axle ring gear. I wasn't sure about this and I put them both on one side to hold things tighter against the pinion. Everything seems to mesh good, but I don't know for sure it might be able to use some more.
5- after going through and assembling all of bag D, I was short one 3x10mm tapered head screw and had on extra 3x10mm button head screw. I went through the chassis and could find any wrong placement of any screws, so it must have been a small oversight in packaging. I am sure it is a rare mistake, luckily I had a pack of 3x10mm TH traxxas screws handy from another project.
Other than these minor bumps along the way I am impressed with this chassis so far. I may have to read some more forums for tips on this thing, this is the first thread I started reading while assembling this beast!
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I too had to trim away at the skid plate to fit it into the chassis rail. I ended up cutting out the headlight buckets from the lexan body since I didn't mask them. I just saw this post and built the truck weeks ago! This is only my second kit, and playing around today I noticed it is squeaking somewhere and after reading this post I think I forgot to grease my tranny gears. The only thing close to an issue I have with this truck is that the sides of the body keep popping out over the rock sliders, but I think some foam washers on the body posts will help keep it tighter and also keep the body from rattling as much.
Crusty Old Shellback
Rock Stacker
Something I did that most people may have know not to do but I think it's causing me some axle alignment issues.
When you build your links for the axles, it helps to do the following.
1. Build the links according to the instructions provided in this thread. DO NOT insert the ball ends at this time.
2. Measure the links to insure proper length and that the pair of links are equal. Make sure the ends are aligned properly.
3. Insert the pivot balls in the ends making sure they are the correct orientation according to the provided drawings.
4. Do not mix up the matched pairs. Install them in the appropriate position on your K5.
Hope this helps others to avoid the mistake I made and am now having issues with. My rear axle is offset by 1/8" and the front axle is offset by 1/4". I've got to check the length of my panhard bar and make sure it is correct.
When you build your links for the axles, it helps to do the following.
1. Build the links according to the instructions provided in this thread. DO NOT insert the ball ends at this time.
2. Measure the links to insure proper length and that the pair of links are equal. Make sure the ends are aligned properly.
3. Insert the pivot balls in the ends making sure they are the correct orientation according to the provided drawings.
4. Do not mix up the matched pairs. Install them in the appropriate position on your K5.
Hope this helps others to avoid the mistake I made and am now having issues with. My rear axle is offset by 1/8" and the front axle is offset by 1/4". I've got to check the length of my panhard bar and make sure it is correct.
MacTheRipper
Newbie
Step F-3
There is a typo regarding the link size. It should be a 61mm and not a 66mm as shown in the manual.
Why is this wrong? I built my kit with the 61mm first by mistake but got a binding issue in the front suspention and read the manual again and saw that it was supposed to be 66mm an put that on an it now works perfect.
Why would there need to be a change in that unless the center motorplate was put in the wrong place?
jeepgeek2002
Quarry Creeper
D2 of the manual shows :
but what you really have is this: Note the holes for the body posts. picture shows in back but are really in front.
but what you really have is this: Note the holes for the body posts. picture shows in back but are really in front.
zanthrax
Pebble Pounder
Step B-3 Install one shim per side on the Spool before installing the 8 x 14mm bearings
This came with my Ascender kit:
That same kit also had the HD pinions and drive shafts in it by the way.
And I've read posts here from others that advised to put both shims on the gear side of the spool. Which should it be?
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Putting those two shims on the flat side will help with mesh between the ring and pinion. I'd put them both on the flat side and try it out, make sure it spins freely. Both shims on the tooth side doesn't really make sense to me.
jdmguy760
Rock Crawler
I put 2 and 2 on mine super smooth I had tried a few different ways with shims before I found what I liked I think its going to be different for all trucks to an extent
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