Assembly Guide
First step before anything is to clear the excess powder from the small holes. It's not as much a problem when it's open on both ends, but these definitely need to be cleaned out. Trying to screw into these when they are full of powder can ruin the chassis!
Install the two laser cut Delrin sub chassis parts using the supplied 0-80 x 1/4" screws (10). It can help to screw the screws into and back out of the sub chassis parts before attaching them to the chassis.
Install the transmission as shown, or you can flip it so the motor is pointing forward but you will need to swap the motor wires if you do that. Be careful not to over tighten the screws.
Install the ball studs into the sub chassis as shown. It is not necessary to use a lock nut, but it doesn't matter if you want to.
Carefully bend the plastic around a round object like a screw driver shaft. Easy does it. You want a nice gradual bend, not a crease. Align it to the chassis to see where to bend.
Should look something like this.
A little olive drab.
Install the body panel using the provided 0-80 x 1/8" screws (14).
Carefully cut out the hood and roof panels then drill the holes. Us a .06" (1/16") drill bit. Install them using the included 0-80 x 1/8" screws (9). After you have them fit properly you can paint them.
For a 5" wb, make the upper links, 1.7" long and the lower links 2.15" long. For a 5.3" wb make the upper links 1.8" long and the lower links 2.3" long. Measure the entire length, not on center. It's important that they are as close as possible to the same length.
Attach the long links to the transmission and the short links to the sub chassis.
I do a semi droop on the suspension. I use Losi Micro-T rear springs, white in front and red in the rear. Also remove the plastic "stop" on the shock to give it full movement. Alternately you can use stock springs if you cut off about 3 wraps.
Attach the axles as shown. Make sure the drive shafts go together properly. They are keyed, if they are off by 90 degrees they will not move freely and bind.
Connect the shocks as shown. Alternately you can mount them to the sub chassis.
Put the wheels on and viola, it's a roller.
I put the ESC in heat shrink and double sided taped it to the back deck.
I put a small 180mAh lipo behind the dash. I never take it out. I just leave it inside even to charge.
If you're doing an interior you will need to install the offset skid. First remove the factory skid, and save the screws. You will need a very small head on the Phillips driver. If it doesn't fit well you can strip the head. Remove the four ball studs.
Remove the three screws that hold the transission gear cover. It will not be put back on.
Install the four ball studs in the new offset skid as shown. Make sure they drive in straight and don't over tighten.
Attach the skid to the transmission. Carefully snip the rounded top and the left screw holes off the metal plate. You can use a file after nipping to smooth it. See the next picture for more clarification.
Cut out the interior tub to look like this.
Here it is with the interior vacuum formed part.
This shows the interior part painted and glued to the frame.
This is how I positioned the driver figure.
Here is where I got the seats.
Here's where I got the driver.
Remove the parts from the panel and clean them with alcohol if necessary. The shifters are straight pins (not included) with the tops painted black. I turned the boot parts over and glued them together.
The screw will self tap into the tube to hold the steering wheel, and the tube will friction fit into the dash. Then glue the dash into the frame.