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Brake line vs DOM or other tube

johncraddock445

Quarry Creeper
Joined
Nov 24, 2013
Messages
204
Location
florence ky
The last chassis, i built I did so using brake line. It worked just fine and I very may well end up using it again...I was wondering if DOM or any other tubing has a significant advantage. If so where is this best place you have found to buy/order it?

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I have been using brake line for years now and haven't had a problem with it. It all depends on how you build the frame and brace it.. I built one 9 years ago and I stood on it and I'm 225 pounds.. Wish I still had the picture to show... But over time time the tubing might bend in some spots. An brake line is cheaper then Dom tubing..


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Hydraulic line is a little more expensive than brake line but has a thicker wall. And isnt coated so its ready to weld. I can get it at the local hose shop in good lengths. And it's already straight, not the coiled stuff.
 
Hydraulic line is a little more expensive than brake line but has a thicker wall. And isnt coated so its ready to weld. I can get it at the local hose shop in good lengths. And it's already straight, not the coiled stuff.
Local hose shop? Should I be looking for a metal shop or something else?

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Local hose shop? Should I be looking for a metal shop or something else

We have a place called house of hose, its a place that builds hydraulic hoses sells all sorts of different sizes shapes and styles of any kind of hose you can think of. I would think that any. It's kind of a speciality shop its not like an auto parts store that also builds hoses.
 
I've used 3 kinds my favorite being Stainless.

Brake line, it's soft and you have a coating to remove before you can use it safely. But, it is cheap and locally available.

DOM tubing. This stuff seemed very soft and easy to bend to me. I found it to work the best in areas of my build where tight radius bends were nessisary. It never seemed to kink.

Stainless, very strong. Easy to prep and braze, I was able to go with thinner walls to save weight without a reduction in strength. It's harder to work but I feel the end result is worth it.
 
Nice find!!

Just looked at it closer, its every bit of 18 ga. (.048 I believe), so I'm stoked. $1.79 a pound. I do go fast desert builds so this should be perfect. A U4 is in the future if I can figure out how to shrink the spindles up front for 2.2s to clear so I can race it in the Trophy 2.2 class.
 
I use mainly 1/4" x .035" 304 stainless welded tube. It is about $1/foot from onlinemetals.com. Easy to work using a handheld tubing bender, pipe cutter (one that is rated for cutting stainless), dremel, and file. Relatively light at 0.08 lb/foot. Simple frames may end up close to a pound, and more complex frames may be around 2 pounds. I considered the .028" wall, which would be good too, but I wasn't sure if it would be strong enough for a go-fast. Also, I don't see the need for seamless/DOM tubing for rc. The welded stuff from onlinemetals is just fine. You can't see the seam unless you are looking for it, and I believe tensile strength is basically the same as it's seamless/DOM counterpart.

I also use 3/16" x .028" stainless tube (seamless/DOM) and 1/8" stainless rod for smaller frames or details on a larger frame.

Online Metals and McMaster also offer decent prices on 4130 chromoly tube, though it is still very expensive. Being in the pacific northwest, I like that I don't have to worry about rust on a stainless frame, and I can even run raw tube if I want. If I were welding, I may consider the chromoly or mild steel. By the way, if anyone has a cheaper source for small diameter chromoly tube/rod (anything 1/4" or smaller), please share!
 
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