MasteroFlego
Rock Crawler
Very much yes, if you can believe it I used to design parts in 3ds max (lol), inventor was a huge upgrade for me.
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3d printer for rc parts
- Thread starter Desmo
- Start date
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
I always warn people that Fusion 360 is powerful, but not even close to being intuitive or making sense. Part of that is me expecting everything to be like SolidWorks and the rest of it is because it's a bad design. You shouldn't have to go into menus for everything.
AutoCAD has never been known for making great stuff nor being intuitive. Even when 2D CAD was the norm and AutoCAD was the go-to software it lagged behind the competition in terms of usability.
Inventor has been very easy for me, the perfect level of dumby pro-ness.
Ive never gotten to try SW and have heard its the cats balls to 3D design. Inventors control panel/interface is pretty easy to navigate, its only hold back is the operator at times.
Ive never gotten to try SW and have heard its the cats balls to 3D design. Inventors control panel/interface is pretty easy to navigate, its only hold back is the operator at times.
When I was going to school for these different 3D design softwares, I was 'ok' with Inventor but when I tried SW, it was intuitive for me and I ran with it. Some other people couldn't get a grip on it and it frustrated the living hell out of them. It always seemed like most of their issues were always with fully constraining the drawings. The best design software that I've used was CATIA when I was interning at Stanley Black and Decker.
k7zpj
RCC Addict
Here is the first layer view from cura.
The long side isn't close to flat. That is why the first layer is the just two small rectangles. Layer 2 has nothing in the center to support it so the printer is "air printing"
That is why the model is oriented on the short side in the STL file. But that means you need supports.
You could try to print it with the long side down using a thick raft(7layers?). That should work. It might be fun to try if you haven't used rafts before.
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Rotate it 90 degrees, print it as a u shape not with the long side down.
Hang up and Drive
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Rotate it 90 degrees, print it as a u shape not with the long side down.
Like the picture
Hang up and Drive
Hang up and Drive
What causes something like that? I'm going to guess it had something to do with the way it was designed in the CAD program. I did the same basic design in Onshape and it sliced fine laying on it's back, haven't tried printing it, I wanted to wait to the Sumo Crawler arrived so I could check the measurements.
Seems to be printing okay this way
Which brings up the question for an object like this (disreguardiing this one) which way is the better way to print it, on it's back legs up or on the side legs out? I just designed a smaller one that will fit my stuff better and was wondering which would be the best way to print it.
My first thought would be with legs up as that would give the best surface adhesion. Would one orientation be stronger than the other?
k7zpj
RCC Addict
It is really the design of the stand which has the long side (top) sloping slightly into the center that is the issue not the cad tool. If the top flat, then it would have printed fine.
k7zpj
RCC Addict
You want to get as much surface area on the build plate as possible. As long as the top is flat, then legs up is probably best.Seems to be printing okay this way
Which brings up the question for an object like this (disreguardiing this one) which way is the better way to print it, on it's back legs up or on the side legs out? I just designed a smaller one that will fit my stuff better and was wondering which would be the best way to print it.
My first thought would be with legs up as that would give the best surface adhesion. Would one orientation be stronger than the other?
The orientation that makes the strongest part is more complicated. That has to take into account the direction of the forces applied to the part and the direction of the filament layers. Slicers have a preview that lets you see the layers, but the best way to figure it out is measuring how much force it takes to break the part.
To me that looks like machine or slicer error. If you had printed legs up top down I would think adhesion but this looks like the machine followed the same path on each layer.
Or ..... maybe change your line width to fit the filament in the desired space with less voids?
Or OR ..... its actually designed that way??
Or ..... maybe change your line width to fit the filament in the desired space with less voids?
Or OR ..... its actually designed that way??
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CREEPERBOB
Yashua
I've been playing around with On Shape for a couple days and I think I'm on to something :ror:.
I like "thumbsup".
I like "thumbsup".
Seems to be printing okay this way
Which brings up the question for an object like this (disreguardiing this one) which way is the better way to print it, on it's back legs up or on the side legs out? I just designed a smaller one that will fit my stuff better and was wondering which would be the best way to print it.
My first thought would be with legs up as that would give the best surface adhesion. Would one orientation be stronger than the other?
I would need to see it in action to know which way is strongest, but there is no need to print it on it's back for adhesion purposes unless you are actively having adhesion problems. Clean bed at the right temp, no problem like that. Looks like it will be just fine like you printed it.
Other things I print are printing okay, if fact I designed the samething in Onshape only smaller and it printed fine. So I'm going to guess there is some kind of design flaw. It was actually designed (not by me) to be printed with one leg laying on the bed. I'll have to look but I think when it was printed that way the top came out fine.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/K6SvgLBYgeQ" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
There is no way I would have the patience to wait for all those parts to print! I cant even imagine how much time is in all those pieces. But pretty neat to see.
Ditchrat
RCC Addict
Dude is a youtube 3d printing, guru. He has multiple machines, Im sure it took him longer to slice things then actually get them printed.;-)
One thing I got from it was the cad files for parts ie screws are available at mcmaster carr. I don't know if it will be useful, but I am checking that out.
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