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3D Printing Material?

Fallen

Rock Crawler
Subscribed Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2015
Messages
788
Location
San Marcos
I recently had a part 3D printed in resin, but it's a bit too brittle. At least too brittle for holes to be drilled into it. I know because I cracked it...

I'm looking into having the part printed again, but looking at SJS glass filled nylon or PLA+ (tough PLA). Preferences?

This is going to be a skidplate on a 2.2 Ultra 4 build. So it needs to withstand impacts from rocks as well as support the chassis. I'd like to be able to drill into it, possibly even cut shapes into it for clearance.

Thanks for any recommendations!
 
Anything structural shouldn't be resin for sure.

I've had good luck with ASA for my bodies - but you need an FDM printer with an enclosure to keep the heat levels constant or it'll warp badly.

A buddy of mine has made several Amazing prints with PLA-High Speed. It's super strong and the detail is obscenely good... the only downside is that it's sensitive to heat. Famously someone in our club left their truck in their car on a hot day and it kind of collapsed in on itself from the heat.
 
Oh, I'd also add that if you're making parts that are intended to be structural, you should test print in whatever material suits your needs best, but once you have a design that looks good and you need to use it long term, have it printed via Nylon SLS printing for a small fee. I don't recall where (sorry!) but a club member here was getting skidplates and body mounts done for about 5 dollars each.
 
I sent you a message. As for material, I've had good results with petg. I use pretty high infill (~70%) and 4 walls usually for my skid plates.
 
Also, a note for anyone looking for a place to have items printed professionally, check craftcloud3d.com. I used them for some metal printing designs (stainless and aluminum). The results were good, and very reasonable pricing. They offer loads of materials.
 
I recently had a part 3D printed in resin, but it's a bit too brittle. At least too brittle for holes to be drilled into it. I know because I cracked it...

I'm looking into having the part printed again, but looking at SJS glass filled nylon or PLA+ (tough PLA). Preferences?

This is going to be a skidplate on a 2.2 Ultra 4 build. So it needs to withstand impacts from rocks as well as support the chassis. I'd like to be able to drill into it, possibly even cut shapes into it for clearance.

Thanks for any recommendations!

I know you mentioned that you had a part printed!!! my question is did you design the part or had the file done by someone else? ... reason behind the question is that if you are designing the part... why not design it with the holes on it and your print will have the structural strength even in simple PLA or better yet on one of the stronger materials. Believe me I am with you I just want to print and build but usually the best parts are the ones that you improve with design and trail/error. This is where having a cheap/entry level printer to design and prototype print for fitment and finish is the game changer, a well designed part will be structurally stronger even when the material is just as simple as a $15 roll of PLA filament. Now once you come up with the design you can send it out to get printed in the desired material if your machine can't do it. Never set yourself short of what your mind and hands can do.

3d prints are fragile and there is some variables that will come in part when trying to drill or create holes such as the infill settings of the print (percentage and pattern are important) also your print setup (orientation) comes into part as the way in which the part is printed will give it more structural support or not by the layers that the printer will create.
 
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I know you mentioned that you had a part printed!!! my question is did you design the part or had the file done by someone else? ... reason behind the question is that if you are designing the part... why not design it with the holes on it and your print will have the structural strength even in simple PLA or better yet on one of the stronger materials. Believe me I am with you I just want to print and build but usually the best parts are the ones that you improve with design and trail/error. This is where having a cheap/entry level printer to design and prototype print for fitment and finish is the game changer, a well designed part will be structurally stronger even when the material is just as simple as a $15 roll of PLA filament. Now once you come up with the design you can send it out to get printed in the desired material if your machine can't do it. Never set yourself short of what your mind and hands can do.

3d prints are fragile and there is some variables that will come in part when trying to drill or create holes such as the infill settings of the print (percentage and pattern are important) also your print setup (orientation) comes into part as the way in which the part is printed will give it more structural support or not by the layers that the printer will create.
I designed it. I can update the design, but I'm also across the country so figuring out exactly what he needs without having the car here is a challenge. I sent a message so we'll see if I can tweak it for him.
 
Its PET-G for structural, ABS for decorative and PLA for prototypes for me.
 
I thought I would need extra holes that it turns out I don't. Unfortunately I learned I don't need them after cracking the part. But running this skid in resin probably isn't a good idea anyway. It's probably too brittle for a part that needs to survive impact with rocks.

But I do like to modify things, so being able to drill holes to add things later is definitely a plus for me.

Thanks for the replies thus far. If I can make use of PETG or SLS nylon I'll go that route.

And I don't design things or own a 3D printer. Bgredjeep designed something for me that I'm using 3D print services to have made. I've learned that resin is certainly not ideal, so now on to another material.
 
Also, a note for anyone looking for a place to have items printed professionally, check craftcloud3d.com. I used them for some metal printing designs (stainless and aluminum). The results were good, and very reasonable pricing. They offer loads of materials.
I had actually just stumbled upon that site today, which is what led to my question on materials. They have so many to choose from.

I had the resin skid printed by a local company, but they primarily do aircraft parts so resin was their only option.

Given your advice I certainly plan to order one from that site now. This resin one will just be my "mock-up" version. My $70 mock-up version...
 
I use a lot of Polymax PLA.


I also use quite a lot of Siraya Tech Blu Nylon Black.

This is for industrial stuff for work. Motor mounts, brackets, etc. I use nylon for motor flex couplings.


You might be surprised by that Blu Nylon Black and the Polymax PLA.

I'll making sliders for my Nissan D21 body (PLA+ printed) in Polymax PLA as soon as I have the time to CAD it up.
 
Thanks again!

I just ordered it up from the craftcloud3d website. PETG, 80% infill, black = $12

Way better pricing than my local aircraft parts company...
 
Its PET-G for structural, ABS for decorative and PLA for prototypes for me.

Interesting. I would have thought ABS for structural. I printed sliders with PETG and they broke on my first run. Reprinted with ASA and they've lasted me 7 months now. I dont recall how much infill I used for either print though.
 
Material selection really depends on the function of the part. Carbon should add to the abrasion resistance. PETG and ASA are good structural filaments in my experience. I have not delved into anything with carbon or nylon reinforcement.
 
For structural parts, I normally use Atomic carbon fiber PETG. It holds up extremely well and prints a lot cleaner that regular PETG. If saving weight is important, carbon or glass filled nylon produces similar strength parts but end up much lighter than PETG parts. You just have to deal with the hassles of printing nylon.

For skidplates, SLS nylon is my favorite. It is strong and very abrasion resistant. A dremel with a sanding drum barely puts a dent in it so it does great being constantly dragged over rocks. Luckily there are many more companies that offer SLS nylon printing at better prices than Shapeways ever offered.
 
Material selection really depends on the function of the part. Carbon should add to the abrasion resistance. PETG and ASA are good structural filaments in my experience. I have not delved into anything with carbon or nylon reinforcement.
Carbon is extremely poor for abrasion resistance. Carbon is very brittle.

Use aramid (kevlar) for abrasion resistance.

PETG has very good wear resistance. PET/PETG is used for things like water bottles.
 
Well this isn't true. We are talking about carbon in filament.


I work with carbon and carbon impregnated materials. The wear resistance comes from the carrier material and not the carbon. Carbon adds tensile strength and not much else.


Carbon is also extremely abrasive hence why hardened nozzles are recommended.
 
I work with carbon and carbon impregnated materials. The wear resistance comes from the carrier material and not the carbon. Carbon adds tensile strength and not much else.


Carbon is also extremely abrasive hence why hardened nozzles are recommended.

I plan on giving some of the carbon impregnated filaments a try. I just need to get a hardened nozzle or two for my P1S. Already got the extruder gears.
 
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