3d printer for rc parts

[mikemcE]

I printed it gussets down the first time and I had boogers elsewhere on the part. Rotating doesn't solve my issues.



Black Friday steal I assume?

Yup, now discontinued.
I’m thinking
1, too fast, I print at 50.
2, retraction set wrong( tower test)
3, Not enough heat, I print PLA hot, 200-215. Benchys are a great tool, not for fine tuning though.


Hang up and Drive

 

[Jim85IROC]

I finally bit the bullet and ordered an all metal hot end for my Monoprice printer, along with my first spool of PETG. Up to now, all of my printing has been with PLA.

Hopefully the learning curve for the PETG isn't too bad.

 

[gsgraber92]

I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus with all metal hot end. The is Duramic PETG 240/65, PEI bed. I have to size my tight fits to .3mm oversized. This bushing dropped right in with little effort. This is a transfer case.

For what it is worth: I use Simplify3D. It gives me the best results. I’ve tried to use Cura but I always come back to S3D.

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[Jim85IROC]

cool! I've noticed that even with my PLA prints that I have to open up all of my gaps about .3mm, give or take. Maybe it's because I'm getting too much squish, I dunno. I do tend to print my PLA a bit on the hot side because I feel like it makes the part stronger when it melts into the lower layer a bit more. Maybe with PETG I won't need to do that.

 

[gsgraber92]

Yeah, I print my PLA and PETG with the same exact setting except for extruded/bed temps.
PLA 215/55
PETG 240/65

I like the first layer to go down a little squished. I use a .152 mm feeler gauge to set my nozzle.


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[Jim85IROC]

You print your PLA a little hot too. Most guys seem to be below 200 for their PLA. I'll start off with your PETG temps and see how it goes.

 

[gsgraber92]

It may be my machine but I find it prints best at 215. I typically print PLA Plus or Pro and it requires a little more heat than standard PLA.


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[JatoTheRipper]

I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus with all metal hot end. The is Duramic PETG 240/65, PEI bed. I have to size my tight fits to .3mm oversized. This bushing dropped right in with little effort. This is a transfer case.

For what it is worth: I use Simplify3D. It gives me the best results. I’ve tried to use Cura but I always come back to S3D.

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Simplify3D is so expensive. I should give the trail a shot and see if it rectifies some of the issues I'm struggling with right now. If it does it would be worth the $150.

 

[gsgraber92]

I am just a hobbyist like most but I just couldn’t get the results I wanted from Cura. I should go back and play with it some more but I just haven’t. I took a leap into S3D and have been so glad I did. It is well worth it. My prints seem smoother, stronger and I typically do not have a lot of stringing or boogers. I also do a wipe at the start of each print and that helps as well.


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[JSterrett]

I bought S3D to have an updated slicer for my Replicator 2, and I use it more often than Cura or Slic3r (Prusa Edition). I keep giving Cura chances with new updates, but I always get better results from S3D.

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[mikemcE]

I finally bit the bullet and ordered an all metal hot end for my Monoprice printer, along with my first spool of PETG. Up to now, all of my printing has been with PLA.

Hopefully the learning curve for the PETG isn't too bad.

I have that with a Diii cooler and 50mm fan. 240/80 work well for me in PETG. Biggest trick with that printer is to use different PID settings for PLA and PETG. Heat drift is common on these. I did the MOSFET mod, Micro Swiss, and all I really print on it is PETG sliced with Cura 4.4
I run my fan between 30% and 80%
No stringing or blobs. Speed is a modest 50


Hang up and Drive

 

[Jim85IROC]

I have that with a Diii cooler and 50mm fan. 240/80 work well for me in PETG. Biggest trick with that printer is to use different PID settings for PLA and PETG. Heat drift is common on these. I did the MOSFET mod, Micro Swiss, and all I really print on it is PETG sliced with Cura 4.4
I run my fan between 30% and 80%
No stringing or blobs. Speed is a modest 50


Hang up and Drive

Thanks for the info. I've previously done the MOSFET mod, and I also use Cura, though I can't recall what version I'm at. I must be current because it's not yelling at me right now.

Aside from the MOSFET mod and the inbound hot end, my Monoprice is still completely stock. Never messed with the PID, and I'm still running the stock fan setup.

 

[mikemcE]

Thanks for the info. I've previously done the MOSFET mod, and I also use Cura, though I can't recall what version I'm at. I must be current because it's not yelling at me right now.



Aside from the MOSFET mod and the inbound hot end, my Monoprice is still completely stock. Never messed with the PID, and I'm still running the stock fan setup.

Watch your temps when printing. When I hooked up Octoprint the hot end temp as bouncing 6 to 8 degrees,3 or 4 over, then 3 or 4 under.
Had a bunch of blobs and missed spots( was at 225 then also)
PID tuned for 225, stays within 1 degree. I re PID tuned for 240 and had two slightly different sets. The stock fan will work fine usually, mine was noisy so I replaced it.


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[gsgraber92]

Since you have a Monoprice printer you do have the option of updating the firmware of your machine and lcd panel. I have found this very helpful and far as calibrating and fine tuning my machine. I use the ADV3++ version 4 by Sebastien Andrivet. It adds more function and tuning. It is a little bit technical to do but do able. They have a great community board and walk you through setup. Just a thought if you like to tinker.

Community.advi3pp.com/t/how-to-flash/16



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[mikemcE]

Since you have a Monoprice printer you do have the option of updating the firmware of your machine and lcd panel. I have found this very helpful and far as calibrating and fine tuning my machine. I use the ADV3++ version 4 by Sebastien Andrivet. It adds more function and tuning. It is a little bit technical to do but do able. They have a great community board and walk you through setup. Just a thought if you like to tinker.

Community.advi3pp.com/t/how-to-flash/16



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Took a quick glimpse now, touch screen ? Stock lcd?


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[gsgraber92]

Mine is a touch screen. I have the Monoprice Maker Select Plus (same as a Wanhao i3+). What is does is upgrades the firmware of both the LCD screen and the Mainboard.


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[mikemcE]

Yeah, same as mine. I had a Creality brain freeze. I was thinking “color” not touch.
I really don’t know if it’s better or not, but lots of notes and the forum


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[JatoTheRipper]

I'm trying a new brand of PETG because Hatchbox doesn't offer it in black. The brand is Overture. After changing filament my printer just wouldn't print right. It turns out I snapped the extruder lever during the change. After thinking about it, I remembered it was cracked and I guess I finished it off so there was no pressure forcing the filament against the extruder. I've ordered a new, metal extruder arm and I'm hoping it fits. This breakage is apparently very common on the Monoprice Select Mini.

I do want to get a larger printer, but I'm torn between one of the Creality CR10 models and the Prusa I3 MK3S.

 

[svt923]

I do want to get a larger printer, but I'm torn between one of the Creality CR10 models and the Prusa I3 MK3S.

The Prusa is a great shortcut on all the time tuning and adding additional features to a CR10 that will inevitably be made. I spent months tuning, tweaking, upgrading firmware, and adding features on the CR10 to make my printing life better all to have the Prusa do everything as good or better out of the box. Both can produce great results, one just takes a lot less time to get there.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

The Prusa is a great shortcut on all the time tuning and adding additional features to a CR10 that will inevitably be made. I spent months tuning, tweaking, upgrading firmware, and adding features on the CR10 to make my printing life better all to have the Prusa do everything as good or better out of the box. Both can produce great results, one just takes a lot less time to get there.

That's great insight. I'm lazy when it comes to tinkering with things to get them to work correctly so it definitely sounds like the Prusa would be the better route for me. Thanks. "thumbsup"