Ground up!

[MOguy]

And this is what happens when you run a HH 540 SS revolver with a stock axial spool. Shredded my treal overdrive gears after it sheared the 3 bolts….


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Stock axial spools and gears suck. I have stripped almost most every gear and rounded out one spool where are axle slides into it.

 

[ferp420]

the problem with those is the screws lossen up then sheer off there were 3 fixes one red locktight on the screws ok for lower power rigs boom racing uses a keyed gear and locker with a vary tight fit making for a bullet proof gear zet or the vanquizh fix that im not completely sold on uses 6 screws also the new axial uses 6 screws on there new lockers and gear sets so i guess its fine
ive got a few years on my boom racing gear sets with out any kind of failure i havent even opened the axles since building them

if your running high power motors i would go with the keyed boom racing gears way to much beef to sheer but they cost more

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Boom-Racin...=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

it seems that extra peed gears also have the key way but there only $1 cheaper https://www.ebay.com/itm/Xtra-Speed...=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

 

[AndrewRC]

I already had a VP spool, I hit it with the blue lo tight and put it back together. If it happens again I’ll definitely take your advice with the boom racing gear set


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[AndrewRC]

Anyone have any suggestions on brass steering knuckles. I looked at beef tubes and ssd but they don’t have the same space for the drag link and the tie rod like the stock VP f9’s do.


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[DRED805]

Anyone have any suggestions on brass steering knuckles. I looked at beef tubes and ssd but they don’t have the same space for the drag link and the tie rod like the stock VP f9’s do.


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SSD is the way to go.

 

[AndrewRC]

SSD is the way to go.

Do you know if they would work with the beefcakes I have already on there?


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[DRED805]

Do you know if they would work with the beefcakes I have already on there?


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I assume those are wheel weights? I'm sure they'll fit, but you don't want those anyway.

 

[AndrewRC]

I assume those are wheel weights? I'm sure they'll fit, but you don't want those anyway.

I have been told stationary mass is better than rotating. I’m really trying hard to get the weight distribution 60/40 or better but there’s a dig on the truck so it’s making it a little more difficult. I was going to try a 3rd member as well but again im having trouble finding one for the SCx.2 style vp f9’s.


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[MOguy]

I have been told stationary mass is better than rotating. I’m really trying hard to get the weight distribution 60/40 or better but there’s a dig on the truck so it’s making it a little more difficult. I was going to try a 3rd member as well but again im having trouble finding one for the SCx.2 style vp f9’s.


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I use brass rings in my 1.9s and a wrap of wheel weight in my 2.2. If I need more I use a brass hub or brass diff cover. In a basher I wouldn't use rotating weight. They say rotating mass is more destructive and I suppose it is. I have broken Axial stock diff gears and rounded out a locker but never broken any of the aftermarket up grades. My rigs weigh from about 5.5lbs to just over 7lbs. My heavier crawler has TRX axles, I have never broken anything anything in a TRX diff.

 

[AndrewRC]

I use brass rings in my 1.9s and a wrap of wheel weight in my 2.2. If I need more I use a brass hub or brass diff cover. In a basher I wouldn't use rotating weight. They say rotating mass is more destructive and I suppose it is. I have broken Axial stock diff gears and rounded out a locker but never broken any of the aftermarket up grades. My rigs weigh from about 5.5lbs to just over 7lbs. My heavier crawler has TRX axles, I have never broken anything anything in a TRX diff.

The ssd steering knuckles are on the way. I’m going to leave the brass weights on as well. I’m not doing any bashing with this truck. Strictly a rock crawler. I might try changing out the links in the front from titanium to stainless. That will hopefully get me where I need to be. If I remember correctly the wheels I have only have rings on the inside. I may get them in brass as well if I can find the right ones.


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[MOguy]

The ssd steering knuckles are on the way. I’m going to leave the brass weights on as well. I’m not doing any bashing with this truck. Strictly a rock crawler. I might try changing out the links in the front from titanium to stainless. That will hopefully get me where I need to be. If I remember correctly the wheels I have only have rings on the inside. I may get them in brass as well if I can find the right ones.


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What are you doing for over drive? Overdrive helps with climbing like weight can (but in a different way). Overdrive can help with steering, added weight can hurt steering.

 

[AndrewRC]

What are you doing for over drive? Overdrive helps with climbing like weight can (but in a different way). Overdrive can help with steering, added weight can hurt steering.

I have the treal over drive gears in the front diff and the VP under drive in the rear. I havnt done the math but I’m told it brings it to somewhere around 30% overdrive to the front.


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[AndrewRC]

What are you doing for over drive? Overdrive helps with climbing like weight can (but in a different way). Overdrive can help with steering, added weight can hurt steering.

The rig is sitting at5.7 lbs before the knuckles and links.


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[MOguy]

The rig is sitting at5.7 lbs before the knuckles and links.


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depending on how low you weight sits in the chassis and where you place your ESC, Servo, motor, battery ... You may not need to add much weight.

What about od/ud?

I just saw your pic on the previous page. Do you really need that big of a battery? You could probably fit a smaller one up front. If you put your steering servo on your axle you weight is lower. Is that a servo winch in the back, can you move it forward?

 

[AndrewRC]

depending on how low you weight sits in the chassis and where you place your ESC, Servo, motor, battery ... You may not need to add much weight.

What about od/ud?

I just saw your pic on the previous page. Do you really need that big of a battery? You could probably fit a smaller one up front. If you put your steering servo on your axle you weight is lower. Is that a servo winch in the back, can you move it forward?

So that 5000 was just there so I could test it. I got the g speed battery tray and mounted it to the frame all the way up front to the right and I’m running tatu 850’s. The steering servo is on the axle. The winch is up front on the left and the servo out back is the dig servo. And I’m running the treal over drive in the front and the VP under drive in the rear.


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[MOguy]

So that 5000 was just there so I could test it. I got the g speed battery tray and mounted it to the frame all the way up front to the right and I’m running tatu 850’s. The steering servo is on the axle. The winch is up front on the left and the servo out back is the dig servo. And I’m running the treal over drive in the front and the VP under drive in the rear.


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Sounds good, do you need that big of a servo for the dig? A mini servo is less tan half the weight. That is a good place to save a couple ounces.

 

[AndrewRC]

Sounds good, do you need that big of a servo for the dig? A mini servo is less tan half the weight. That is a good place to save a couple ounces.

That’s a good idea. I might do that. I can use that HHshv500 for another build.


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[MOguy]

That’s a good idea. I might do that. I can use that HHshv500 for another build.


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That is too good of a servo to waste for dig.

 

[AndrewRC]

That is too good of a servo to waste for dig.

I wanted to go direct power to take the burden off the micro x but honestly how much juice is the dig servo going to use.


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[AndrewRC]

That is too good of a servo to waste for dig.

Any suggestions on what to use for a micro servo?


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