Reezo's Axial Gladiator Overland HAM Build [Picture Heavy]

[Reezo]

Hello everyone,

I have been looking - for some time - for a new rig that can complement my TRX-4 Sport and UMG10, and I think the Gladiator will do great, because my aim is that, when the three RCs face an obstacle, no driver will drive it the same.

They will have to use their strenghts to tackle the problem, in a different way. Given the TRX-4 Sport and UMG10 are true performers in different ways, I've spent some time thinking about it and the Gladiator will certainly not be close in strenghts/weaknesses to any of the two, which is a good thing.

Also, the Gladiator will keep me good company on the bench as well, because it will allow for tons of customized tuning and, when I am feeling spicy, scale items (as the other two crawlers have their share of nice details).

I want to built this Gladiator like a true overland beast, it must feel like "you have everything you need" when you are out there crawling the trails, like a true mobile fortress.

I want to get an aggressive stance, tire offset poking out, equivalent of 4" OD or even a bit more (Gladiators look great on 37/40' in my opinion), and I'd love for it to have straight (but plastic) axles. Rear sway bar, suspension tuned to cycle nicely but be either limited or stiffened (I am thinking limiters or pen mod) and just see that body wiggle a little bit like the giant beast it is.

I have a Castle 1415 2400 kv laying around which would be probably useless I put some 9t pinion (or 6t, just kidding), with a Mamba ESC (that I know will drive my wife nuts). If I don't want to use what I have, I'll probably get a Fusion Pro 2300 kv and call it a day. Winch, dig, a useless but why-not 2-speed transmission (I have the channels) and some assessment on the links, which I could remake to get more clearance. Obviously then, weight distribution: brass upfront, brass wheel rims, maybe even weights. I am not afraid to make it a brick because my TRX-4 Sport is one and it blows a lot of class 2 crawlers out the water.

Then, a packed back, some roof rack, flood lights, roof lights, a nice minimal but aggressive bumper, maybe lean fenders, we'll see. It has to be mean but not too military-mean.

My question: where to start? It seems like a stupid question but, straight axles kit are hard to find, here in Europe, at the moment. The builder's kit isn't.

So, is it crazy to buy a SCX10.3 Base Line Builder's Kit, a Gladiator clear body and the necessary pieces to transform the chassis to what the Gladiator needs (longer rear rails, longer links etc.)

I am not sure a list is available but I can compare the exploded parts in the PDFs for the SCX10.3 Kit vs the Gladiator, and see which parts are different. I have never done this and I am wondering if I am just nuts in a non-productive way. I would like to be nuts in a productive one

Somehow I felt like asking if this is just a stupid idea... instead of getting a 2nd-hand deal on a good Gladiator, which would give me a solid starting point but I don't like what most sellers did with their bodies etc. so I am thinking there will be more parts I won't use.. and at that point it's better to from the ground up rather than from the ceiling down (I hope I am making sense!)

Thanks for the brainstorming!

 

[VoltSCX]

Oh I like the sound of this one, I love me a good Gladiator build. It sounds feasible, I don't think it'd be too terribly hard to do. To my knowledge, the only parts that are different between the Base Camp and Gladiator chassis are:

- Rear links
- Rear driveshaft (Base Camp has shorter rear driveshaft and links)
- Side plastics (Base Camp doesn't have the same micro servo mount for dig)
- Transmission/transmission skid (from what I can see the Base Camp only has the standard 3 gear transmission with a dig, looks like it's right out of the Capra)
- Steering servo mount (which would likely need to be swapped to fit the 2 speed since the motor would probably collide with the mount)
- The engine motor cover thingy

It seems like a fairly easy conversion, and sounds like it'd be cheaper than building a used RTR model. I'm interested to see where it goes, sounds like a cool build!

 

[Reezo]

Oh I like the sound of this one, I love me a good Gladiator build. It sounds feasible, I don't think it'd be too terribly hard to do. To my knowledge, the only parts that are different between the Base Camp and Gladiator chassis are:

- Rear links
- Rear driveshaft (Base Camp has shorter rear driveshaft and links)
- Side plastics (Base Camp doesn't have the same micro servo mount for dig)
- Transmission/transmission skid (from what I can see the Base Camp only has the standard 3 gear transmission with a dig, looks like it's right out of the Capra)
- Steering servo mount (which would likely need to be swapped to fit the 2 speed since the motor would probably collide with the mount)
- The engine motor cover thingy

It seems like a fairly easy conversion, and sounds like it'd be cheaper than building a used RTR model. I'm interested to see where it goes, sounds like a cool build!

Hey Volt, thank you for chiming in! I am glad you are as excited as I am for this project. I'll allow myself to post one picture from a video I've watched today (all credits go to The Story Till Now).

Now that I am super pumped, I'll check the parts you mentioned, exploded views one next to the other, to see if I have missed something.

I am not completely sold on the idea that going Builder's Kit ---> Gladiator parts is going to be easier than the other way around Gladiator ---> straight axles but it's also true that, unless I find a Gladiator for sale with a custom body I like OR in stock grey, I am not too sold on it, as I'd have to buy the body anyway (I know I could resell the original body afterward, but still...)

So, we'll see, we'll see, it's not like I am running eagerly to another 1,000 bucks adventure (I'd say waaaaaaaay less, but in significant-other-terms it's usually 2x to be safe).

 

[VoltSCX]

Hey Volt, thank you for chiming in! I am glad you are as excited as I am for this project. I'll allow myself to post one picture from a video I've watched today (all credits go to The Story Till Now).

Now that I am super pumped, I'll check the parts you mentioned, exploded views one next to the other, to see if I have missed something.

I am not completely sold on the idea that going Builder's Kit ---> Gladiator parts is going to be easier than the other way around Gladiator ---> straight axles but it's also true that, unless I find a Gladiator for sale with a custom body I like OR in stock grey, I am not too sold on it, as I'd have to buy the body anyway (I know I could resell the original body afterward, but still...)

So, we'll see, we'll see, it's not like I am running eagerly to another 1,000 bucks adventure (I'd say waaaaaaaay less, but in significant-other-terms it's usually 2x to be safe).

Ay, no problem! It's nice to see another Gladiator build being thought up. I'd say that it'd be an equal amount of effort for either (I tried a straight axle swap once and it didn't go well, decided to keep my portals), though the Base Camp route would likely be far less expensive. If you bought a used RTR for $300-$400 and then didn't use the motor, ESC/receiver, axles, body, bumpers, and maybe wheels and tires (would recommend the stock Trail Grapplers though, I've had em on my Gladiator for 2 years and absolutely love them. Great tires), then I'd say it would be much easier to just buy the kit instead. Everything should bolt on the same, as the frame rails are exactly the same between all 10.3 trucks.

 

[Reezo]

Ay, no problem! It's nice to see another Gladiator build being thought up. I'd say that it'd be an equal amount of effort for either (I tried a straight axle swap once and it didn't go well, decided to keep my portals), though the Base Camp route would likely be far less expensive. If you bought a used RTR for $300-$400 and then didn't use the motor, ESC/receiver, axles, body, bumpers, and maybe wheels and tires (would recommend the stock Trail Grapplers though, I've had em on my Gladiator for 2 years and absolutely love them. Great tires), then I'd say it would be much easier to just buy the kit instead. Everything should bolt on the same, as the frame rails are exactly the same between all 10.3 trucks.

Great point. I see how that could work. I am not totally against portals, I think once I lower my stance and avoid the front to completely unload when uphill, it will be hard to spot portals underneath (I'd plan to give it quite a lowered stance). I am kind of afraid that - given the longer wheelbase - the straight axles will get hung up everywhere. But then I think about my LCG comp crawlers, my wife has portals and I have straight axles, mine doesn't get hung up everywhere, probably as one prepares the driving line accordingly, as well.

With enough offset from the tires, to push them at least half-way out from the fenders, straight axles look amazing. I am thinking about the typical Gladiator Overland with 40" tires (=4" in our case), yeah the straight axles give it such a badass stance. But again, I would not be against portals just because.

I had 4 Trail Grapplers from my Capra and they were not performing on the rocks where I was, so I sold them. I am SO regretting this, honestly for looks alone and on the trails they'd been fantastic. They were new.

I just faced that moment in the hobby in which you sell the extra and make some good money too... only to realize you need all you sold for a future project. I am hating myself!

It could be Falken Wild Peaks or Pitbull Growlers, at this point I have to raise

Anyway, going back to the main topic: I need to sit down and calculate what the cost will be, through the exploded views. Once I have the calculation done, I'll post it here.

One thing that scares me is that the Gladiator body in clear, is out of stock everywhere. What if I remain bodyless

 

[VoltSCX]

Great point. I see how that could work. I am not totally against portals, I think once I lower my stance and avoid the front to completely unload when uphill, it will be hard to spot portals underneath (I'd plan to give it quite a lowered stance). I am kind of afraid that - given the longer wheelbase - the straight axles will get hung up everywhere. But then I think about my LCG comp crawlers, my wife has portals and I have straight axles, mine doesn't get hung up everywhere, probably as one prepares the driving line accordingly, as well.

With enough offset from the tires, to push them at least half-way out from the fenders, straight axles look amazing. I am thinking about the typical Gladiator Overland with 40" tires (=4" in our case), yeah the straight axles give it such a badass stance. But again, I would not be against portals just because.

I had 4 Trail Grapplers from my Capra and they were not performing on the rocks where I was, so I sold them. I am SO regretting this, honestly for looks alone and on the trails they'd been fantastic. They were new.

I just faced that moment in the hobby in which you sell the extra and make some good money too... only to realize you need all you sold for a future project. I am hating myself!

It could be Falken Wild Peaks or Pitbull Growlers, at this point I have to raise

Anyway, going back to the main topic: I need to sit down and calculate what the cost will be, through the exploded views. Once I have the calculation done, I'll post it here.

One thing that scares me is that the Gladiator body in clear, is out of stock everywhere. What if I remain bodyless

I personally think that the portals are kinda equally as good as straight axles, as I have a 10.1 on Integy aluminum axles that performs almost as good as my 10.3 on portals. Imo it's kinda just preference. Also, as for the longer wheelbase, I've almost never had any problems with that on mine. The only thing that ever got hung up was the rear bumper. Also, the clear body is out of stock? Are you sure? I'm in the process of ordering a new one from Amain right now for my own build, and it seems to be in stock.

 

[Reezo]

I personally think that the portals are kinda equally as good as straight axles, as I have a 10.1 on Integy aluminum axles that performs almost as good as my 10.3 on portals. Imo it's kinda just preference. Also, as for the longer wheelbase, I've almost never had any problems with that on mine. The only thing that ever got hung up was the rear bumper. Also, the clear body is out of stock? Are you sure? I'm in the process of ordering a new one from Amain right now for my own build, and it seems to be in stock.

You are right. And about the body, here in Germany it is sold out, maybe somewhere else it will be easier as they say, break a leg!

I heard about a friend selling his Gladiator and I am going to pick it up, for 350 it was a great deal, all RTR including the original box and parts, plus brass portal weights on all 4 sides, pumpkin covers, lots of 3D parts, different bumpers, scale items, roof rack, lighting, beadlocks etc.

It was too good a deal to let go so I am picking it up! Then we'll see from there, where it goes. The tires are some cheap stuff so I think I will order myself 4 Falken Wildpeaks and call it a day

 

[VoltSCX]

You are right. And about the body, here in Germany it is sold out, maybe somewhere else it will be easier as they say, break a leg!

I heard about a friend selling his Gladiator and I am going to pick it up, for 350 it was a great deal, all RTR including the original box and parts, plus brass portal weights on all 4 sides, pumpkin covers, lots of 3D parts, different bumpers, scale items, roof rack, lighting, beadlocks etc.

It was too good a deal to let go so I am picking it up! Then we'll see from there, where it goes. The tires are some cheap stuff so I think I will order myself 4 Falken Wildpeaks and call it a day

Oh wow that's a great deal, nice! Sounds like it's pretty much ready to go too. Well, enjoy your new rig man! I can tell ya from experience that if you handle it right, the 10.3 Gladiator is an awesome truck. Had mine for 2 years and it's never let me down once.

 

[Reezo]

Oh wow that's a great deal, nice! Sounds like it's pretty much ready to go too. Well, enjoy your new rig man! I can tell ya from experience that if you handle it right, the 10.3 Gladiator is an awesome truck. Had mine for 2 years and it's never let me down once.

Thanks for confirming it, yes, I ran some numbers and compared the exploded views with what needed to be purchased from the kit, and had everything down, all items were in stock minus the bed rack, that was a hard one to find and it has joints that hold the body together... So that would have been a problem.

But anyway, price wise, a basic Kit-to-Gladiator would have gone past 550 bucks without electronics, wheels and tires, paint-related items etc.

Then the upgrades would come, which are mostly all there already. Same for scale accessories.

I did use yesterday to purchase a bunch of upgrades and accessories, in order for me to have everything at once, this time I am not playing the "one at the time" thing as there some good deals in the past days and I decided to take advantage. If something doesn't work or look as useful as intended, I'll send it back.

More updates soon!

 

[Reezo]

OK, I picked up the Gladiator and found it in great shape. Here are pictures documenting what I took home.

One thing that strikes me is how the red is much better in person than in any picture, mine included.

I won't describe all the photos, it makes no sense as you people in here will know what you are seeing way better than I can do myself. (all the original parts are also included but I didn't take specific photos of all of them).

https://imgur.com/a/yMUoxHa

 

[VoltSCX]

OK, I picked up the Gladiator and found it in great shape. Here are pictures documenting what I took home.

One thing that strikes me is how the red is much better in person than in any picture, mine included.

I won't describe all the photos, it makes no sense as you people in here will know what you are seeing way better than I can do myself. (all the original parts are also included but I didn't take specific photos of all of them).

https://imgur.com/a/yMUoxHa

Oh wow that thing looks awesome! I'm starting to get some ideas for my own Gladiator, lol.

 

[Reezo]

Oh wow that thing looks awesome! I'm starting to get some ideas for my own Gladiator, lol.

That's fantastic! I'd be seriously happy if that level of inspiration loops to you somehow!


I think I'll resell the tires but the wheels are not bad. I had to try something, speaking of 2.2...

Not that they'll go there but....

https://imgur.com/VSabqdn

 

[VoltSCX]

That's fantastic! I'd be seriously happy if that level of inspiration loops to you somehow!


I think I'll resell the tires but the wheels are not bad. I had to try something, speaking of 2.2...

Not that they'll go there but....

https://imgur.com/VSabqdn

I mean... they do look pretty good on there... (I'm not usually a fan of swampers but those actually look good on that truck)

 

[Reezo]

I mean... they do look pretty good on there... (I'm not usually a fan of swampers but those actually look good on that truck)

One artistic close-up might be deceiving, I'll see... I got 4 2.2 for free and they're basically new, but I only run 2.2 on my rock racers, and they are not like the Swampers (and have plastic beadlocks). I have a weird set of thin 2.2 wheels that have weights and could be good with the Swampers, as I don't see it as a go-fast tire but more of a trail one (although 2.2 is on its own) so heavier wheels with added weights up front would be cooler.

If the wheel/tire combo works I'll keep them around maybe for winter extreme situations or very muddy adventures

They don't look insanely off for being some of the biggest 2.2 I have seen!

 

[VoltSCX]

One artistic close-up might be deceiving, I'll see... I got 4 2.2 for free and they're basically new, but I only run 2.2 on my rock racers, and they are not like the Swampers (and have plastic beadlocks). I have a weird set of thin 2.2 wheels that have weights and could be good with the Swampers, as I don't see it as a go-fast tire but more of a trail one (although 2.2 is on its own) so heavier wheels with added weights up front would be cooler.

If the wheel/tire combo works I'll keep them around maybe for winter extreme situations or very muddy adventures

They don't look insanely off for being some of the biggest 2.2 I have seen!

Alrighty, kewl.

 

[Reezo]

I have been doing so much to this rig, I cannot wait to share the details, hopefully later today!

 

[JatoTheRipper]

I have been doing so much to this rig, I cannot wait to share the details, hopefully later today!

The witch touched it! Now you have to burn it...

 

[ferp420]

The witch touched it! Now you have to burn it...

lol she looking for its hee hee so she can um ah you know that thing

 

[Reezo]

Finally, an update!

I am back from a whole day of trails and crawling, in which I turned my phone off and just enjoyed. I already broke some scale accessories, lost light caps, got some dents, scratched the beadlocks, and utterly slaughtered the trails and some of the really hard lines. I am really happy with the whole driving experience, sfar.

Let's start from what is missing, still:

• Stickers
• A couple more scale accessories in the bed
• Rear sway bar
• Front links length may not be final

I'm sorry I don't have a nice RC garage like you folks have, I love seeing the cars in them, I put some scale stuff on the table, did my best but it's nowhere close the epic stuff I see here! Anyway, if I forgot something, just ask.

Wheels and Tires:
Proline Krawler T/A 1.9" in G8 compound, vented, Injora negative offset beadlocks with brass rings in the front and aluminum in the rear, brass weights in the fron (reversed to increase the offset), stock hubs in the front and 12 mm hubs in the rear (to even the offset created in the front). Injora blue silicon inserts with fridge liner buffer on the outside.

Shocks:
Stock Axial Gladiator shocks with 20wt oil, spring mod, Axial red springs in the front and green in the rear.

Links:
Stock rear links, custom-made aluminum/brass front links, +1 cm from the stock length

Servo and steering:
Stock servo with dedicated BEC set at 7.4 V. Metal 'compact' servo arm. Metal panhard mount with spacer, stock steering arm and panhard bar.

Axles:
Stock Axial portal axles, stock gearing in the front, underdrive gearing in the rear. Brass portal covers front and rear, aluminum pumpkin guards front and rear.

Motor and ESC:
Castle Creations 1415 2400 kv sensored, with a Mamba Micro X2. Castle Creations BEC set at 7.4 V to power the ESC, receiver, lights and winch (servo has a dedicated BEC). 11t pinion. Had to dremel the front fake-engine cover mount (which were removed) to make room for the longer motor can.

Transmission:
Stock 2-speed Axial Gladiator transmission, with Dig. 2 mini servos to shift gears and use dig.

Winch:
Something absolutely generic that I found around, pretty powerful but dangerous electronics, as they did not have reverse voltage protection. I soldered a schottky diode straight in there (there was room) just to make sure I don't burn it.

Lighting and secondary electronics:
A lot of custom stuff, generic-named, plus Injora and RC4WD. All of the lighting and the winch use a single switch mounted in the bed, that comes from a dedicated secondary circuit with reverse voltage protection, because YES, I will eventually, accidentally plug negative to positive... I know myself. I placed the switch right below the ARB bed and it's easy to reach with a finger (if you know where it is).

Scale stuff:
A lot of 3D-printed things from the previous owner, plus my own things, with some more holes drilled, things adjusted, secured, tuned etc. etc. I am sure pictures speak more than my own description.

Weight:
5010 g (11 lbs) without battery

 

[Fallen]

The sway bar is a great addition to the SCX10.3.

Since I installed one on mine it seems just as capable, but more stable.

I know someone makes a bolt-on sway bar, but if you scope my Bronco thread you'll see how I built mine.