No drag brake on my 1080.

[Smonkman]

Hey guys,
Ran into a new issue with my TF2 at my class 1 comp today. The drag brake no longer held on any inclines. I’m running a 1080 with a Holmes Hobbies Crawlmaster Sport 13t.
I assumed it was the programming on my 1080 but when I hooked up the programming card my Max Brake Force was 100% and my Drag Brake was at 100%, with the Drag Break Rate set a level 9.

Am I missing something? Do I have the esc programmed wrong or is there something else at play here?

Thanks!

 

[Voodoobrew]

Freewheeling, and your trim is probably off.

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[Smonkman]

Freewheeling, and your trim is probably off.

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Free wheeling is currently disabled. Should I have it enabled?

 

[Voodoobrew]

I can never remember which way is correct. But it is active drag brake. Or drag brake when not in neutral.

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[durok]

Pretty sure HobbyWing recommends that Freewheeling be turned "On" for use in a crawler, off for regular R/C vehicles.

They've never really explained exactly what it does, just that it has better linearity during low-speed running and also less heat.

"Off" is supposed to give slightly better acceleration.

 

[JimInMiami]

Pretty sure HobbyWing recommends that Freewheeling be turned "On" for use in a crawler, off for regular R/C vehicles.

They've never really explained exactly what it does, just that it has better linearity during low-speed running and also less heat.

"Off" is supposed to give slightly better acceleration.

Funny I was about to post a new thread asking just what the whole freewheeling thing meant, but at the risk of highjacking this thread. From the manual: "For a crawler we suggest enabling it. With it enabled, your crawler can have a better linearity during a low speed running and also less heat."

 

[Voodoobrew]

Basically then when freewheeling is on your tire will not freewheel faster then the motor going down hill.

Drag brake only works in neutral.

Freewheel is drag brake when you are not in neutral.

So if your throttle trim is off, you are not in neutral and not using drag brake. If freewheeling is also off your call will roll downhill with gravity or motor speed, which ever is faster.

Replace active drag with freewheeling in this video
https://youtu.be/zvGCOfVIXVM

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[JimInMiami]

Basically then when freewheeling is on your tire will not freewheel faster then the motor going down hill.

Drag brake only works in neutral.

Freewheel is drag brake when you are not in neutral.

So if your throttle trim is off, you are not in neutral and not using drag brake. If freewheeling is also off your call will roll downhill with gravity or motor speed, which ever is faster.

Replace active drag with freewheeling in this video
https://youtu.be/zvGCOfVIXVM

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

Voodoobrew, many thanks for that video, it finally makes sense to me!

 

[CamoColton]

Basically then when freewheeling is on your tire will not freewheel faster then the motor going down hill.

Drag brake only works in neutral.

Freewheel is drag brake when you are not in neutral.

So if your throttle trim is off, you are not in neutral and not using drag brake. If freewheeling is also off your call will roll downhill with gravity or motor speed, which ever is faster.

Replace active drag with freewheeling in this video
https://youtu.be/zvGCOfVIXVM

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

Finally a concise explanation for this. I always wondered what it actually did but never turned it off to try to figure it out.

You'd think though with a name like "freewheeling" you'd disable, not enable it for the effect it actually does. Or call it freewheel braking or something.

 

[durok]

Finally a concise explanation for this. I always wondered what it actually did but never turned it off to try to figure it out.

You'd think though with a name like "freewheeling" you'd disable, not enable it for the effect it actually does. Or call it freewheel braking or something.

Probably an issue with translation, many instruction manuals haven't had adequate proof-reading, coming from overseas companies... ;-)

 

[Voodoobrew]

Probably an issue with translation, many instruction manuals haven't had adequate proof-reading, coming from overseas companies... ;-)

Maybe its on purpose...


But generally Freewheeling is considered the opposite of regenerative braking, which is what this option should be called.

 

[King Dork]

I’m glad that I stumbled on this thread. I’m gonna check all my 1080 escs now because I’m pretty certain I would have disabled it on them just given the name of the setting. I got so irritated with one of my trucks because it crept even with all of the settings maxed. Ran out of patience and bought a Holmes BRXL (?) to replace the 1080.

 

[Voodoobrew]

This is why throttle calibration is important. If you were actually still in neutral and creeping down hill then you are over geared IMO.

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[Mart Bowtie262]

My apologies for bringing this up again , (I'm a newbe here)
but I'm still confused about the drag brake on my 1080 ESC.
I'm an old fool, playing & racing on carpet with an old RC Tamiya RWD F1 just for fun.
My problem is getting my 1080 ESC to activate a strong drag brake retardation when decelerating from straightaways down into tight corners.

(Yeah, I realise it's not crawling, but you clever guys are my best chance, please)

I'm particularly useless at using the regular brake (trigger forward) method.

I have followed the manuals instructions and tried variations of the adjustable settings with the program card.

I think I've tried all the combinations of the menu variables (items 1-15) shown below.

1. Running Mode (1) Fwd/Brk (2) Fwd/Rev/Brk (3) Fwd/Rev.
2. Battery Type (1) LiPo
3. Cutoff Voltage (2) Auto (Low)
4. Initial Start Force (1) 0
5. Max. Forward Force (4) 100%
6. Max. Reverse Force (1) 25%
7. Max. Brake Force (7) 75% (9) 100%.
8. Initial Brake Force (6) 31.5% (9) 50%.
9. Drag Brake (6) 70% (8) 90% (9) 100%.
10. Drag Brake Rate (3) L3 (7) L7 (8) L8
11. Neutral Range (3) 0.04ms
12. Start Mode/Punch (4) L4
13. PWM Frequency (2) 2K
14. BEC Voltage (2) 7.4V.
15. Freewheeling (1) Enabled (2) Disabled.
(item 15. is confusing me,, if better named as 'regenerative braking' = Option1 = Enabled ??

What combination would you expect to give me maximum drag braking as I come down hard from full throttle?
I had expected an extreme drag brake setting to almost lock the rear wheels !!

Please help !! Many thanks, Mart.

PS: I have tried the 'ESC SET' procedure following changes and also zero'ed the radio FS-GT3C settings.
& watch Tekin video and others. I must be exceedingly stupid

 

[JatoTheRipper]

My apologies for bringing this up again , (I'm a newbe here)
but I'm still confused about the drag brake on my 1080 ESC.
I'm an old fool, playing & racing on carpet with an old RC Tamiya RWD F1 just for fun.
My problem is getting my 1080 ESC to activate a strong drag brake retardation when decelerating from straightaways down into tight corners.

(Yeah, I realise it's not crawling, but you clever guys are my best chance, please)

I'm particularly useless at using the regular brake (trigger forward) method.

I have followed the manuals instructions and tried variations of the adjustable settings with the program card.

I think I've tried all the combinations of the menu variables (items 1-15) shown below.

1. Running Mode (1) Fwd/Brk (2) Fwd/Rev/Brk (3) Fwd/Rev.
2. Battery Type (1) LiPo
3. Cutoff Voltage (2) Auto (Low)
4. Initial Start Force (1) 0
5. Max. Forward Force (4) 100%
6. Max. Reverse Force (1) 25%
7. Max. Brake Force (7) 75% (9) 100%.
8. Initial Brake Force (6) 31.5% (9) 50%.
9. Drag Brake (6) 70% (8) 90% (9) 100%.
10. Drag Brake Rate (3) L3 (7) L7 (8) L8
11. Neutral Range (3) 0.04ms
12. Start Mode/Punch (4) L4
13. PWM Frequency (2) 2K
14. BEC Voltage (2) 7.4V.
15. Freewheeling (1) Enabled (2) Disabled.
(item 15. is confusing me,, if better named as 'regenerative braking' = Option1 = Enabled ??

What combination would you expect to give me maximum drag braking as I come down hard from full throttle?
I had expected an extreme drag brake setting to almost lock the rear wheels !!

Please help !! Many thanks, Mart.

PS: I have tried the 'ESC SET' procedure following changes and also zero'ed the radio FS-GT3C settings.
& watch Tekin video and others. I must be exceedingly stupid

Which motor are you running. Weak motors are no help with drag brakes.

 

[89Industries]

What is the final drive ratio on something like that?

Drag brake would likely be less effective with a higher geared carpet racer, I think. Combine that with either a weak motor or a motor tuned for speed rather than torque and you may just not get as much as you expect.

Settings 9 and 10 are indeed what you feel if you just let go of the throttle. With those set to max on a crawler that maybe goes 6 mph or so you can do stoppies on high traction surfaces just by going full throttle then no throttle suddenly.

Do you have the programming card or are you trying to use the button on the switch?

Nevermind, I re-read your post.

 

[Mart Bowtie262]

Which motor are you running. Weak motors are no help with drag brakes.

Thanks, Oh, it is just a basic 540 silver can,, probably amongst the weakest variety. So that might (hopefully) explain it !!! I had noticed the motor didn't have the strong magnetic phases when I turned it over by hand. Is it that magnetic effect that I need to have in a motor to get the drag brake to work ?? I will find a stronger motor & give it a try. Many thanks for your reply to me, I appreciate it. thanks

 

[Mart Bowtie262]

What is the final drive ratio on something like that?

Drag brake would likely be less effective with a higher geared carpet racer, I think. Combine that with either a weak motor or a motor tuned for speed rather than torque and you may just not get as much as you expect.

Settings 9 and 10 are indeed what you feel if you just let go of the throttle. With those set to max on a crawler that maybe goes 6 mph or so you can do stoppies on high traction surfaces just by going full throttle then no throttle suddenly.

Do you have the programming card or are you trying to use the button on the switch?

Nevermind, I re-read your post.

hi, yes, it has a very small pinion (I haven't got the car with me at the moment). The motor is just a basic 540 silver can & feels weak when turned by hand. Tomorrow I'll find a stronger motor and give it a try. . I know the 1080 ESC is marketed as a crawler ESC and I am using it for a quite different application . Thank you for helping . I'm beginning to understand now.

 

[89Industries]

hi, yes, it has a very small pinion (I haven't got the car with me at the moment). The motor is just a basic 540 silver can & feels weak when turned by hand. Tomorrow I'll find a stronger motor and give it a try. . I know the 1080 ESC is marketed as a crawler ESC and I am using it for a quite different application . Thank you for helping . I'm beginning to understand now.

I am using a hw1080 in a Tamiya buggy myself. Many run the 1060 in buggies. 1080 just more tuneable.

The pinion size is inverse to the final drive ratio. So little pinion gives bigger FDR. Larger pinion gives smaller FDR.

Then also the transmissions will be geared differently giving different FDR.

Basically, final drive ratio is how many times your motor goes around to rotate the wheel once.

 

[Gula]

Try a 27t brushed crawler motor in your F1 car