I did this this afternoon in a couple of hours
Step by step instructions on how to do it yourself with simple hand tools
tools and materials needed
drill and 3/32 drill bit and 1/2" drill bit
hacksaw
vise or visegrips
coping saw
sharpie
dremel or sandpaper and file
materials
stock WK motor plate
Wk tranny and screws
3" length of 2" x 2" x 1/8" aluminum angle
I never measure anything on small parts like this the sharpie is your friend and will show you where to drill
To start you must remove all the existing mounting tabs and webs and the alignment tab for the motor plate at the input shaft bearing housing from the tranny you end up with this.
next place the motor plate on the tranny over the input shaft 90* to the original location. it will overlay the idler bearing hump. mark the motor plate with your sharpie on what needs to be removed. place the motor plate in your vise and use your coping saw or dremel cut out the half circle to clear the bearing housing. you motor plate will look like this
Now turn the motor plate and tranny over making sure it is aligned correctly and use your sharpie to outline the tranny shape onto the motor plate
now in the center of each of the semi circles that outline the screw locations for the 2 upper tranny screws place a dot and drill out using the 3/32 drill bit
cut off the excess of the lower portion of the motor plate using your hack saw as shown but do not discard you will use this later.
install your motor plate onto your tranny and then the cut off portion from the lower section of the plate will be installed as a clamp to secure the bottom of the motor plate. use a couple washers as spacers between the tranny and the cut off section of the plate and tighten down. this step is really not needed but is just added security"thumbsup"
Well your motor plate is now clocked to 90* from stock and will still accept your stock WK pinion and spur.
place your newly revamped motor plate and trans on the alum angle as shown
drill a 1/2" hole in the angle to allow the bottom tranny screws to penetrate through, square off the hole with your coping saws as to let the bottom of the trans fall through the hole. You should end up with a 1/2" x 1/2" square hole.
now drill a 1/2" hole where the input shaft needs to penetrate through.This hole does not have to be perfect as you will be enlarging the hole later. Using the sharpie, mark out the shape of the tranny mounting holes like below making sure you leave plenty for error, its easer to cut it down that to start over
cut out the shape with your hacksaw. making sure you also notch for the idler gear bearing hump on the side of the tranny and enlarge the center openning to allow for the star pattern supports on the output bearing locations. This does not have to be perfect and again cut it twice if needed instead of cutting too much the first time.
Once you have it cut out and the tranny fits well, use the sharpie marking method again to mark where to drill for your tranny bolts. At this point it will look like this
now drill out the holes and mount to your tranny
Step by step instructions on how to do it yourself with simple hand tools
tools and materials needed
drill and 3/32 drill bit and 1/2" drill bit
hacksaw
vise or visegrips
coping saw
sharpie
dremel or sandpaper and file
materials
stock WK motor plate
Wk tranny and screws
3" length of 2" x 2" x 1/8" aluminum angle
I never measure anything on small parts like this the sharpie is your friend and will show you where to drill
To start you must remove all the existing mounting tabs and webs and the alignment tab for the motor plate at the input shaft bearing housing from the tranny you end up with this.
next place the motor plate on the tranny over the input shaft 90* to the original location. it will overlay the idler bearing hump. mark the motor plate with your sharpie on what needs to be removed. place the motor plate in your vise and use your coping saw or dremel cut out the half circle to clear the bearing housing. you motor plate will look like this
Now turn the motor plate and tranny over making sure it is aligned correctly and use your sharpie to outline the tranny shape onto the motor plate
now in the center of each of the semi circles that outline the screw locations for the 2 upper tranny screws place a dot and drill out using the 3/32 drill bit
cut off the excess of the lower portion of the motor plate using your hack saw as shown but do not discard you will use this later.
install your motor plate onto your tranny and then the cut off portion from the lower section of the plate will be installed as a clamp to secure the bottom of the motor plate. use a couple washers as spacers between the tranny and the cut off section of the plate and tighten down. this step is really not needed but is just added security"thumbsup"
Well your motor plate is now clocked to 90* from stock and will still accept your stock WK pinion and spur.
place your newly revamped motor plate and trans on the alum angle as shown
drill a 1/2" hole in the angle to allow the bottom tranny screws to penetrate through, square off the hole with your coping saws as to let the bottom of the trans fall through the hole. You should end up with a 1/2" x 1/2" square hole.
now drill a 1/2" hole where the input shaft needs to penetrate through.This hole does not have to be perfect as you will be enlarging the hole later. Using the sharpie, mark out the shape of the tranny mounting holes like below making sure you leave plenty for error, its easer to cut it down that to start over
cut out the shape with your hacksaw. making sure you also notch for the idler gear bearing hump on the side of the tranny and enlarge the center openning to allow for the star pattern supports on the output bearing locations. This does not have to be perfect and again cut it twice if needed instead of cutting too much the first time.
Once you have it cut out and the tranny fits well, use the sharpie marking method again to mark where to drill for your tranny bolts. At this point it will look like this
now drill out the holes and mount to your tranny
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