charlesd
Rock Stacker
Anyone have a link to a good skid plate?
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A deeper look within the Redcat Everest 10 crawler
- Thread starter TakeOffYouHoser
- Start date
Screwfly
Rock Stacker
Road Dog RC on Facebook has them for $12.
Thanks for mentioning this. Just got mine today for my week old E10. Well worth the $15 it cost me, and cheaper than the other available options.
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Fyi, if you are planning on the axial iron cross locker, the current E10 locker can't be easily gutted like the ones I've seen posted in this thread.
I just pulled mine apart today after the lockers arrived planning the cut out the plastic center. They now have a cross (+) molded into the plastic locker the full thickness so you can't just cut out the center. I put it back together for now and ordered the diff cups. I'll snap a pic once I get the new cups and swap them in.
I just pulled mine apart today after the lockers arrived planning the cut out the plastic center. They now have a cross (+) molded into the plastic locker the full thickness so you can't just cut out the center. I put it back together for now and ordered the diff cups. I'll snap a pic once I get the new cups and swap them in.
Well that escalated quickly.
High steer, cvds, pen springs, integy chassis, mirrored trans. New diff cups will be here tomorrow so I'll have 4wd back (stripped the stock locker shortly after my last post).
High steer, cvds, pen springs, integy chassis, mirrored trans. New diff cups will be here tomorrow so I'll have 4wd back (stripped the stock locker shortly after my last post).
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Here's the upgraded locker that now comes in the e10. Like I mentioned before, no more hollowing this out for the iron cross locker. It probably holds up better for the Redcat specific shafts, but my scx10 shafts stripped it pretty quickly.
themountain
I joined the Band!
Get rid of that lockers ...they are probably the weakest part on the car(besides the servo) Get some all metal...they only cost a few bucks"thumbsup"
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32844196237.html?spm=2114.13010708.0.0.3a994c4dixdG2J
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32844196237.html?spm=2114.13010708.0.0.3a994c4dixdG2J
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thats the same locker that mine had and it now has the iron cross was easy enuff to clean outHere's the upgraded locker that now comes in the e10. Like I mentioned before, no more hollowing this out for the iron cross locker. It probably holds up better for the Redcat specific shafts, but my scx10 shafts stripped it pretty quickly.
also redcat has bigger tangs on there shafts than axial thats why it striped out so easy
More updates for my e10. Gen8 shocks, axial methods, ripsaws, and some new skins. I also picked up some exceed max volt axle housings, and lockouts/solid shafts for the rear. I liked the link and shock mount setup on the exceed, and it was cheap to try.
Not sure if this video link will work, but I'll give it a try. I started a small rock pile in the backyard. This was testing on the first day.
https://i.imgur.com/1qDFwgU.gifv
Not sure if this video link will work, but I'll give it a try. I started a small rock pile in the backyard. This was testing on the first day.
https://i.imgur.com/1qDFwgU.gifv
chunkylover53
Newbie
Here's a couple pics of my sons crawler.
Integy chassis.
35t axial motor
One of the inner Cs on the front axle broke yesterday, new aluminum inner Cs, knuckles and cva axle shafts are on the way.
Next I plan on a new skidplate to move the lower control arms in and some new tires. the stock tires are stiff imo. My other son and I share a mostly stock E10. I took all the foam out and they still don't flex much even in the central Texas weather.
Integy chassis.
35t axial motor
One of the inner Cs on the front axle broke yesterday, new aluminum inner Cs, knuckles and cva axle shafts are on the way.
Next I plan on a new skidplate to move the lower control arms in and some new tires. the stock tires are stiff imo. My other son and I share a mostly stock E10. I took all the foam out and they still don't flex much even in the central Texas weather.
mtbmonkey
Newbie
WOW! That cage looks amazing. Great job!
Figured I would bump this up. Things got a little out of hand on my build, but its mostly spare parts from other cars so I don't feel bad about it.
First up was new axles. Ebay/china special, wraith width with ar44 based locker and gears. Still running the axial Methods, but wide adapters are gone. I recently modified the truss to drop the steering servo much lower on the axle, which turned out better than I planned. Steering is maxed at what the cvd shafts will allow. Once they break I'll get some u-joint shafts that can turn a little more.
The esc is now a hobbywing quicrun 10bl120, motor is a castle slate 2280kv, and I just swapped in a receiver to run my radiolink rc4g. The servo is a hexfly 25kg that I've determined is junk. I also just added a castle bec to try and deal with the servo until I can swap to something stronger. Whatever I get will benefit from the bec as well.
Overall it works great. There are a couple spots the chassis tends to hang up on that I'm going to address, and if course the weak servo, but otherwise it rocks. 4ws might be in its future as well.
At this point, the links and the transmission are all that's left of the e10 I started with in May last year.
Early pic after the axle install
Current
First up was new axles. Ebay/china special, wraith width with ar44 based locker and gears. Still running the axial Methods, but wide adapters are gone. I recently modified the truss to drop the steering servo much lower on the axle, which turned out better than I planned. Steering is maxed at what the cvd shafts will allow. Once they break I'll get some u-joint shafts that can turn a little more.
The esc is now a hobbywing quicrun 10bl120, motor is a castle slate 2280kv, and I just swapped in a receiver to run my radiolink rc4g. The servo is a hexfly 25kg that I've determined is junk. I also just added a castle bec to try and deal with the servo until I can swap to something stronger. Whatever I get will benefit from the bec as well.
Overall it works great. There are a couple spots the chassis tends to hang up on that I'm going to address, and if course the weak servo, but otherwise it rocks. 4ws might be in its future as well.
At this point, the links and the transmission are all that's left of the e10 I started with in May last year.
Early pic after the axle install
Current
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I reworked my skid plate design to widen the lower link mounts. I think the original is good for stock width axles but the wraith width mounting was a bit much. This should also help the chassis slide over rocks better without the big space between the links and the side of the chassis. Those corners liked to grab rocks.
Gray is before.
Gray is before.
Here's what I've been up to with my E-10. I converted it to the Injora Rock Bouncer chassis using the stock links and some offset or bent pivot ends.
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Nice. Looks like the trans mount was the only other adjustment needed. I put one of those together using my leftover e10 parts and an scx10 trans. The chassis works great, especially for the price.
redbarton. I'm curious whether you were able to use all of the suspension and chassis parts from the E10. And did you have to find anything outside of the parts that came with the E10 and the Injora. The reason is that I really like the result of what you did here. So I ordered the Injora frame/body kit to transfer the E10 parts to. It appears to be pretty simple. But sometimes there are hidden details that aren't obvious.
mechfishy...I happened to already have some RC4WD bent and offset long rod ends. Beyond that, I only needed some misc. M3 hardware.
Using the stock Everest 10 links, you'll use the long straight and long bent links up front. For the front upper links, use the long straight links and put long offset links on one end. The offset end goes in the belly skid. The offset will be up to give the link more clearance over the bottom links.
Continuing with the top upper links, you'll then rotate the other stock end 90 degrees and it will be mounted using the servo standoff screw below the metal servo plate. I think the stock screw is M4, but I replaced it with a longer M3 screw and put a locknut on the top. This seems to work just fine.
For the front lower links, use the long bent links with the bend towards the front facing out. Put bent rod ends on both sides. At the axle, the bend will point in. At the center, the bend will point out.
Going to the back, you will use the short curved links for top and bottom. The inside of the link curve faces down. The rear top link will be exactly the same as stock, with the stock bent end in the center pointing inwards and the other straight stock end at the axle.
For the rear lower links, replace the stock bent ends with the long offset links. These will go in the center with the offset pointing down. The stock straight ends will be mounted at the axle as per normal.
Note: You'll need M3 screws to mount the center link points as well as the tops of the shocks. Sorry, I don't know the lengths. I have a lot of misc. hardware from the dozens of RC's I've owned over the years.
Here are some other mods to note about my build. The shocks have 1 pen spring under the piston. I added wider wheel hexs (8mm?). Also, the front steering links have been mounted on top of the steering knuckles.
Lastly, you'll rotate the transmission 180 degrees. So, you'll have to reverse the throttle channel on your transmitter as well.
I'm still fine tuning mine. Let me know if any of this doesn't make sense.
Using the stock Everest 10 links, you'll use the long straight and long bent links up front. For the front upper links, use the long straight links and put long offset links on one end. The offset end goes in the belly skid. The offset will be up to give the link more clearance over the bottom links.
Continuing with the top upper links, you'll then rotate the other stock end 90 degrees and it will be mounted using the servo standoff screw below the metal servo plate. I think the stock screw is M4, but I replaced it with a longer M3 screw and put a locknut on the top. This seems to work just fine.
For the front lower links, use the long bent links with the bend towards the front facing out. Put bent rod ends on both sides. At the axle, the bend will point in. At the center, the bend will point out.
Going to the back, you will use the short curved links for top and bottom. The inside of the link curve faces down. The rear top link will be exactly the same as stock, with the stock bent end in the center pointing inwards and the other straight stock end at the axle.
For the rear lower links, replace the stock bent ends with the long offset links. These will go in the center with the offset pointing down. The stock straight ends will be mounted at the axle as per normal.
Note: You'll need M3 screws to mount the center link points as well as the tops of the shocks. Sorry, I don't know the lengths. I have a lot of misc. hardware from the dozens of RC's I've owned over the years.
Here are some other mods to note about my build. The shocks have 1 pen spring under the piston. I added wider wheel hexs (8mm?). Also, the front steering links have been mounted on top of the steering knuckles.
Lastly, you'll rotate the transmission 180 degrees. So, you'll have to reverse the throttle channel on your transmitter as well.
I'm still fine tuning mine. Let me know if any of this doesn't make sense.
