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Adopt a newbie todaayy!!!

Creeping down hill.

I'm a berg newbie and been playing arround for a bit. I love how I can creep up a hill super slow but going down hill is a different story. Is there a way to make your berg creep down a hill. I guess most people dig down hill but sometimes I wish I could do a precise downhill creep. If I try to go down a steep incline by just barely pressing throttle I lose all braking and just fly down and endo at the bottom. Not exactly a precise descent. I'm starting to think its just the nature of the beast.

Does a losi comp do this too (being a worm drive)?
 
I'm a berg newbie and been playing arround for a bit. I love how I can creep up a hill super slow but going down hill is a different story. Is there a way to make your berg creep down a hill. I guess most people dig down hill but sometimes I wish I could do a precise downhill creep. If I try to go down a steep incline by just barely pressing throttle I lose all braking and just fly down and endo at the bottom. Not exactly a precise descent. I'm starting to think its just the nature of the beast.

Does a losi comp do this too (being a worm drive)?

Figured I would help a little since Colby is offline. 8)

What setup are you running on your berg? When going down hill, you need whats called drag brake. This is done through the ESC, motors and some people use the gear mesh. I run a Tekin FX-R with 45t handwound motors. Drag brake is set at 50 or 60% and it will almost stop going down a steap incline. You can tighten the rear gear mesh on the motor to help it out a little but its better when its done the right way through the ESC and motors. Tightening the gear mesh will give premature wear on the gears and ut more strain on the motors. There are a few esc's out there that have drag brake but IMO, nothing comes close to the drag brake on the FX-R's. I know there are a few other speed controls in the works but there not out yet. You will also get better drag brake out of the handwound motors.

A Losi will not freewheel because of the worm drive axles.....they do not need drag brake at all from what I have seen. "thumbsup"
 
Oh ok, I'm running dual FX-Rs and I think I have drag brake set to 10. I'll try and knocking it down. I'm just wondering if I would lose dig performance if I do.
 
Oh ok, I'm running dual FX-Rs and I think I have drag brake set to 10. I'll try and knocking it down. I'm just wondering if I would lose dig performance if I do.


In that case, I would set them to about 50% and try that. "thumbsup"


I have never ran dual FX-R's but I would think that setting the rear FX-R to 100% and the front to about 40% would work good.

Either way, its going to make the dig better, not worse. "thumbsup"
 
you shouldn't lose dig. Dig (in a moa) is in the two motors. And drag brake is an esc so you should have both.

Ok, not sure if I understand dig fully but tell me if I'm wrong. When you dig you essentially turn off one of the motors. The motor that is off is drag braking. If that motor is to freewheel instead of drag braking, wouldn't it affect your turn radius in a dig turn?
 
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Ok, not sure if I understand dig fully but tell me if I'm wrong. When you dig you essentially turn off one of the motors. The motor that is off is drag braking. If that motor is to freewheel instead of drag braking, wouldn't it affect your turn radius in a dig turn?


When you dig, you want the rear to lock down. When the rear locks, it allows you to pull the front end around with throttle. If the rear tries to roll when you dig, you will actually have a larger turning radius. "thumbsup"


What radio do you run? Just curious as to how its actually set up.


After thinking about it, I might have to throw my spare tekin in my rig and try the 100% rear, 40% front drag brake..........
 
When you dig, you want the rear to lock down. When the rear locks, it allows you to pull the front end around with throttle. If the rear tries to roll when you dig, you will actually have a larger turning radius. "thumbsup"


What radio do you run? Just curious as to how its actually set up.


After thinking about it, I might have to throw my spare tekin in my rig and try the 100% rear, 40% front drag brake..........


I have a Airtronics M11. I found some setup instructions somewhere on this forum and it works great! I get front and rear dig buttons, variable forward/rear clodstall eliminator and option for 4ws.
 
I have a Airtronics M11. I found some setup instructions somewhere on this forum and it works great! I get front and rear dig buttons, variable forward/rear clodstall eliminator and option for 4ws.

Your mixing the channels. Thats what I was wondering. I would set the drag brakes at 100% rear and 40 or 50% front and try it out. When you go down a hill, it will allow the rear end to stay down and still the the front roll a little to keep the rear end from coming over. "thumbsup"
 
Ok, not sure if I understand dig fully but tell me if I'm wrong. When you dig you essentially turn off one of the motors. The motor that is off is drag braking. If that motor is to freewheel instead of drag braking, wouldn't it affect your turn radius in a dig turn?


No no no no no, your confusing your self. Drag brake and dig are to different things.

Drag brake is when you push back on the throttle and the esc (if it has drag brake capabilities) will then lock up the two motors (both at the same time!!), thus stopping, or breaking the vehicle.

Now dig.

Ok, say you have a punk rc dig switch. You then have the capabilities to front dig or rear dig. How does this work? Ok, the dig switch will either allow you to lock up the front or rear (not both at the same time, like drag break). To get front dig, you lock up the rear, which allows the front wheels to spin (front dig). Or you can lock up the front to get the rear wheels to spin (rear dig).
 
Well, for a new comer in the RCC world, I would start out with the losi crawler. It looks awesome and is very competitive out of the box.

Building a "Frankenstein" crawler can also be better, and a lot more expensive. You can get some Enroute Berg axles or RC4wd bully axles and build your own and with the right amount of money and setup, you can have one of the best crawlers. But for a newbie/beginner I would Strongly suggest a Losi 2.2 crawler.
 
You need to start a new thread in newbie general.
And don't ask this question. People get sick and tired of hearing that question and answering it.
Every crawler has its pro's and con's.

:idea:And btw, use the search button.


No. It's not a big deal. I would much rather have people ask questions in this thread than start another new one.
 
i may be wrong, maybe i shouldn't say anything but isn't this thread about:

Ive decided im bored, and I want to help someone, so I am going to adopt one of you berg noobs. You dont have to be a first time crawler, but if you want to run a berg, and dont know where to start, post up here!!!

sorry if i am wrong, cause this is a super place for us that have little or no rccrawling knowledge."thumbsup"
 
Okay little tike, have you seen how pissed off the mods and other members get when newbies post threads about the same problem, just in different words? sometimes the EXACT same thing. I HIGHLY Doubt that Colby is going to get mad about people asking questions about other things also.
 
Ok back on topic. Whats the smallest obtainable pinion gear for berg? I've searched and couldn't find anything smaller than 12t.
 
12t is it. I run a 12 in the rear of mine with a 55 in the rear, and a 13t in the front with a 45t "thumbsup"
 
But im not gonna post crap in his thread.
So im done, unless someone has a berg specific question i might could help.

You said you were done......


I just removed all your worthless drivel.


I think this is a cool thing for Colby to do. This section is here to help the newbies,Colby is trying to do that. The next guy to steer away from the topic or try to start a flame fest in here will get an infraction.

...Now,back to the topic.....


Continue on please.
 
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