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Adopt a newbie todaayy!!!

what are the best foams for the LOSI Mini Crawler? I will be climbing Granite mostly.
ALSO, What is a Dig unit?
AND, what is the runtime on the Losi Lipo that is the free addition with the stock setup?
Nova's ark foams are the shiz in any tire. A dig unit in a shafty bolts to the transmission to unlock the rear end so the front will pivot and or help pull you up over a ledge, or down off a ledge without the rear bringing you over. and I have no clue on the run time, i do not mess with mrc's

i am getting a newage 2.2 berg kit and a punk rc dig switch. i have a novak rooster esc and would like to know if the 2 work well together (punk switch and the rooster) i see alot of others using the tekin set up is that because of the size?. my other ? is will my 3 channel radio work for front and rear dig it is a jr xr3i. i tryed to ask my locoal hobby shop but they do not sell that stuff and my crawler club dose not have any moa. when i told them what i was getting they all seemed scared. they are all running losi.

Im not positive, but i dont think the rooster crawler is good enough for a berg? The tekin setup is one of the best setups to run with the punk along with the mamba max and the sidewinder. I would suggest getting one of those, but also see if the rooster can handle 11.1 volts.

You need a 3channel 3position radio. I beleive your radios only 2 position 3 channel. If not, thats good, if so you need a new radio.

Your local club is scared because a berg with walk all over a losi :twisted:
 
Do the scx10 body mounts work the same as they did with the traxxas with vertical post.

The scx10 posts have a lip below the very top hole for the body to set on, and you use a body clip to keep the body post at height on the chassis. "thumbsup"
 
Thanks, Is it very hard to use any 1/10 scale body since the one I used to by from proline already had the holes cut for tmaxx body mounts. And what material do I use to fill the holes? fiberglass?
 
white styrene plastic with some tamiya putty will fill it in, but you will have to paint over the outside ;)
 
I think I have my last question for today. I was browsing towerhobbies trying to find a body for an scx10, is there certain numbers or things I need to look for other than 1/10 scale to see if the body will fit.
Some of the bodys are in mm and some read 0.50. Just trying to find something I will like so I can start my plans.
 
Not sure, Usually any body that will fit a Tmaxx, emaxx, savage, or any other of the monster trucks will fit. You can also look at the Tamyia Hilift bodies (Toyota Hilux, Ford F-350, or the Toyota Tundra) Those are hard bodies, which are really cool with the accessories you can get with them. "thumbsup"
 
Lol, researching is your best friend at this moment. "thumbsup" May look at the losi comp crawler, the losi mini comp crawler, or the axial ax-10 scorpion
 
I'm unsure how long or serious I will do this Rock Crawling thing, so I want something ready to run outa the box, so the comp crawler is out. If I change my mind, I wanna be able to sell the whole unit easily and go back to my Savage Flux
 
What do I do with wheel weights. I bought 18oz. worth and I have a scx10 with flatirons and beadlocks. Where do these stickon weights go?
 
What do I do with wheel weights. I bought 18oz. worth and I have a scx10 with flatirons and beadlocks. Where do these stickon weights go?


You can take the tires and foams off and stick them on the "outside" part of the rim then put the foam and tires back over them. That hides them from sight. The easier option is to just stick them to the inside of the rim. Either way works fine. You'll want to make the front heavier than the rear. The total amount of weight and the front to rear weight ratio are usually specific to each rig. You'll just have to try a few things and see what works.

Edit: Forgot to say. If there are air holes in your rims, don't cover them up with the sticky weights.
 
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I'm unsure how long or serious I will do this Rock Crawling thing, so I want something ready to run outa the box, so the comp crawler is out. If I change my mind, I wanna be able to sell the whole unit easily and go back to my Savage Flux

Or if you'd rather have a crawler that more representative of what you'd see on the street or trail check out the Axial SCX10 TR (Trail Ready). All you'd need is a battery and charger plus scalers are cool!
 
So my scx10 came in today, Is there any type of controller that wont be so touchy. It seems like the littlest force makes this thing wanna wheelie. I know its just takes getting used to but it would be great to have a controller with more control over the low end. Does one exsist? And I if it eliminates having top end thats okay as long as I can have some wheel speed its cool. Its for trail riding not racing.
 
So my scx10 came in today, Is there any type of controller that wont be so touchy. It seems like the littlest force makes this thing wanna wheelie. I know its just takes getting used to but it would be great to have a controller with more control over the low end. Does one exsist? And I if it eliminates having top end thats okay as long as I can have some wheel speed its cool. Its for trail riding not racing.

it's not the controller, its the motor...

I assume you have the SCX10 Trail Ready (with the silver Dingo body), if so then it comes with a 27turn motor which is too fast for trail running or rock crawling. I'd suggest swapping it out to a 35 - 55 turn motor"thumbsup"
 
Yeah.. Ive tried using low turn brushed motors for crawling before... 0 torque... if your in a bind, your screwed "thumbsup"
 
Ok guys first off i think everybody helping out on this thread needs a pat on the back for all the help they are offering. great job"thumbsup" I have a couple of questions that were kinda touched on eariler in this thread but not compleatly clear.
Is im running a berg with a single sidewinder esc and the servo actuated style dig. My question is the drag break is awful, so how do i adjust drag break? Also when I use dig it seems that my rig will roll the tires where others rigs stay locked when they dig, this may be cleared up by the break adjustment but im not sure i understand about the shorting out the motor in dig part. Thanks a bunch guys. great thread"thumbsup"
 
I had the same problem with the exact same setup. Your wiring on your dig in incorrect. It does not properly short the motors out. Heres a diagram for you on how to do it correctly:
elctrodisco.jpg


Rewire yours just like that, and it will lock the motor out completely. Also, the sidewinders drag break sucks... may check into a mamba max or a tekin FXR "thumbsup"
 
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