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Adopt a newbie todaayy!!!

I just bought an ax10 scorpion.
Dont even have it yet.

Just wondering is there anything i should change or do out of the box ?

New to crawling just crawled my first time the other day on another axial, im hooked.

any info to get started would help.

Scott

Put some competitive tires on with some weight in the front, say 5oz per front wheel, and go for it!
 
Hey so I am looking for some advice, I have some older Tamiya 4x4 RC's and want to get into crawling. Is it possible to convert a off road chassis into a crawler? Or would I need to get a compleatly different frame? Here is a pic of what I am thinking of making into a crawler. If it is possible. It is a TA02 Tamiya frame. Thanks for the help.:)
205686_1831019369836_1070913619_2082034_3831435_n.jpg

The TA02 you have there isnt going to crawl well without SERIOUS modification. It just doesnt have the gearing or the clearance. That said, they do make fun scale rigs, and with a 55-75t lathe motor and appropriate body they are quite enjoyable. I used to wheel a locked up stock TA01 Humvee, and had a blast with it! Gear it down as far as you can, throw in as much voltage as you can, and put a lathe in it. Have fun!
 
Hi everyone! I'm new to all this, so just wanted to introduce myself. If there's anyone in the Sonoma County area who wants to adopt this newbie, any advice is appreciated! I've got a buddy who asked me to be co-driver on a couple endurance races for his 1/5th scale, so that's where I got hooked on RC... but I like the technical stuff of crawlers... plus I have a 1:1. :) I got a killer deal on a ax10 roller I couldn't pass up, and I'd like to try out a local competition. Research tells me a MOA rig is the way to go, so I'm on the lookout for one now.
 
Wheel Offset

I have a question about wheel offset im going to machine my own rims and dont really know what to do as far as offset. Whats a good rule to follow for choosing the offset of the hub as well as the width of the rim itself.

Thanks
 
I just bought an ax10 scorpion.
Dont even have it yet.

Just wondering is there anything i should change or do out of the box ?

New to crawling just crawled my first time the other day on another axial, im hooked.

any info to get started would help.

Scott

Congrats with the new purchase! Deffinatly you should change the suspension geometry so that the wheelbase is longer and you have less clearence, while less clearence may sound like a bad thing it brings your center of gravity way down and lets your truck do more without tipping. Also put the battery in as low a position as possible I put mine on the rear axle with some zip ties originally untill I got a mount to place it on the front axle. Then get some softer springs and better shocks that are ride height adjustable so you can tune the torque twist. Better Tires and Foams are important too I switched to the White HB Rovers and Proline Two Stage Foams and was very happy. Take a look in the pix thread of the Scorpion forum and look what other people have done for some ideas too. The biggest thing you can do though is just drive and get practice, a good driver can take a stock axial up stuff a bad driver with an expensive custom built crawler can't.

Just my 0.2
 
Congrats with the new purchase! Deffinatly you should change the suspension geometry so that the wheelbase is longer and you have less clearence, while less clearence may sound like a bad thing it brings your center of gravity way down and lets your truck do more without tipping. Also put the battery in as low a position as possible I put mine on the rear axle with some zip ties originally untill I got a mount to place it on the front axle. Then get some softer springs and better shocks that are ride height adjustable so you can tune the torque twist. Better Tires and Foams are important too I switched to the White HB Rovers and Proline Two Stage Foams and was very happy. Take a look in the pix thread of the Scorpion forum and look what other people have done for some ideas too. The biggest thing you can do though is just drive and get practice, a good driver can take a stock axial up stuff a bad driver with an expensive custom built crawler can't.

Just my 0.2


Also to help torque twist, you can change the rear to a 4-link and set the driver side link on top of the plate and the passenger side under it. I got my rear 4-link at TCS for like $8 and it helped with the twist.
http://www.tcscrawlers.com/On-Sale-...corpion-1-each-US-Patent-Pending-p-17282.html

Hey Old Guy, how do you change the suspension geometry? The only available adjustment I see is to move the upper links at the chassis in more... and I think that would just re-clock the axle...??
 
Hey Old Guy, how do you change the suspension geometry? The only available adjustment I see is to move the upper links at the chassis in more... and I think that would just re-clock the axle...??

So here is a picture of my axial in the early stages of its life before I tunned it with the advice of those in this forum. If you can see the arrows in red they mark the positions that I have the links in and because of it currently my truck has a longer wheelbase and lower CG. your right about the clocking of the axle but that is just a side affect I havent really seen it as a much of a dissadvantage either though.

If you want I can post some pics with the changes but I would have to go take the pix and it quite a long walk to the garage right now.... so just let me know.

Suspensiongeometrychanges.jpg
 
Also to help torque twist, you can change the rear to a 4-link and set the driver side link on top of the plate and the passenger side under it. I got my rear 4-link at TCS for like $8 and it helped with the twist.
http://www.tcscrawlers.com/On-Sale-...corpion-1-each-US-Patent-Pending-p-17282.html
and that 4 link will work but it doesnt provide any way to tune the suspension try one more like this. http://www.rcplanet.com/Axial_Bender_Customs_4_Link_Plate_p/axi30507.htm
This ones not the greatest example because it still only has two positions on each side and im sure you could find one for cheaper so search around theres just an example.
 
If you want I can post some pics with the changes but I would have to go take the pix and it quite a long walk to the garage right now.... so just let me know.

Suspensiongeometrychanges.jpg

yea if you don't mind, a pic of how it is now would be great. I assume you removed the supports for the battery tray to move the top side of the shocks in (more angle on them)?

My lower links at the chassis are already on the farthest hole and also moved to the inside of the frame when I got it... Looks like the last guy notched the skid to fit that.
 
Last edited:
This morning I noticed how my links are almost parallel to the ground vs. yours that are not (although I realize it's tuned differently now)... Is that good? bad? makes no difference?

After this pic, I moved the upper links to where you have the arrows.

links2.jpg
 
Dont worry B my favorite movie is Dileverance and I LOOOOOOVE camping!!! :shock:

So can I call you dad now!!!:mrgreen:
 
Getting started

Hello I want to get started, and I want to know what the top three kits you all would recommend. I have been looking at the Axial xr10 and the berg. also I have seen the enroute. Help!!!!
 
How does this work?

I'm a newbie for sure. over 40, but not new to RC.
Got my Dingo, or as I'm now calling it "The Baby Eater" a couple months ago and I'm totally into it.
I've doen the aluminum links, new drive shafts and a few other hop ups, waterproofed with balloons, but stumped on a couple things.

So, if someone can spare some time for a computer guy that for some reason can't efficiently use the advanced search button, i would be grateful:)

First is trying to figure out what size lipo i should get? I have a huge forward mounted Nimh battery that i think is too big and heavy.
 
foreward mounted 6cell pack is a good start. Weight isn't all bad (I personally like heavy rigs) as long as it's foreward mounted and as low as feasible.
 
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